1963 'Maybelline' Convertible Birdcage to Restomod Recreation
#61
Team Owner
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Madison - just west of Huntsville AL
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My hat is definitely off to the OP, and everyone else that is saving these olds cars.
Well done.
#62
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I've decided I am going to post how long it takes to do certain tasks rather than post the total amount of time I have spent on the car since I failed at keeping a good record on the last car. I can tally the total at the end of the build. Last car was around 1400 hours(estimated) and I am guessing this one will be closer to 2000. I think I already have around 250-300 hours in the car.
3 hours today to install the body mount reinforcements, heater box studs, and then bond the left and right plenum panels in place.
I took measurements off a 63 split window project that currently does not have a front clip, but does have the original plenum panels in place. It's a good thing i had that car to take measurements off of because I was over 1/4" off on the driver's side plenum at the top, which would have potentially caused some serious headaches later when bonding the front clip in place.
I put the rivets in backwards on the passenger side panel, but since this is a restomod, I am not going to worry about it. I know that will drive some OCD people crazy, but if I go OCD on this project, it will never get finished!
I had to tack weld the studs in place since they broke loose while I was riveting the brackets in place. I used an extra outer heater box that I had sitting around to make sure everything lined up properly.
I know it doesn't look like much, but it certainly feels good to have a few pieces of the car repaired, replaced, and bonded back together!
3 hours today to install the body mount reinforcements, heater box studs, and then bond the left and right plenum panels in place.
I took measurements off a 63 split window project that currently does not have a front clip, but does have the original plenum panels in place. It's a good thing i had that car to take measurements off of because I was over 1/4" off on the driver's side plenum at the top, which would have potentially caused some serious headaches later when bonding the front clip in place.
I put the rivets in backwards on the passenger side panel, but since this is a restomod, I am not going to worry about it. I know that will drive some OCD people crazy, but if I go OCD on this project, it will never get finished!
I had to tack weld the studs in place since they broke loose while I was riveting the brackets in place. I used an extra outer heater box that I had sitting around to make sure everything lined up properly.
I know it doesn't look like much, but it certainly feels good to have a few pieces of the car repaired, replaced, and bonded back together!
Last edited by 65silververt; 09-28-2014 at 04:34 PM.
#63
Safety Car
Thread Starter
4 hours spent today cleaning old adhesive off of all bonding areas, prepping the driver's side hinge and latch pillar for installation, pulling the body, and cutting out the rear tub to prepare for the SRIII Chassis.
The project will pretty much be put on hold until the new chassis arrives.
The project will pretty much be put on hold until the new chassis arrives.
#64
Safety Car
Thread Starter
4 more hours today to clean up rear the convertible top/rear deck reinforcement/bonding strip. This thing was really rusty! I sanded it, then sprayed it with rust converter. The nut plates will need some attention. I really wonder where this car was? How in the world did the nut plates that are enclosed in the rear deck reinforcement crossmember get so rusted(see picture below). Must have been salt air, that is all i can figure.
Driver's hinge pillar reinstalled. Here you can see the traces of the original silver-blue paint.
New latch pillar temporarily installed for fitting.
Before sanding and paint
Rear deck/latch reinforcement crossmember prepared for bonding.
Nut plate referred to in initial statement.
Driver's hinge pillar reinstalled. Here you can see the traces of the original silver-blue paint.
New latch pillar temporarily installed for fitting.
Before sanding and paint
Rear deck/latch reinforcement crossmember prepared for bonding.
Nut plate referred to in initial statement.
Last edited by 65silververt; 09-29-2014 at 05:50 PM.
#65
Safety Car
Thread Starter
2 hours
Just when i thought I was finally finished battling with rust on this car....
Rich's support system.
I ordered a new rear deck, but who knows when that will be made and shipped. Until then, things are on hold.
If anybody has some nice 63 doors, let me know. This car has a damaged 65 driver's door and the passenger door is a 63 door with a 65-66 skin.
Just when i thought I was finally finished battling with rust on this car....
Rich's support system.
I ordered a new rear deck, but who knows when that will be made and shipped. Until then, things are on hold.
If anybody has some nice 63 doors, let me know. This car has a damaged 65 driver's door and the passenger door is a 63 door with a 65-66 skin.
Last edited by 65silververt; 10-14-2014 at 10:35 PM.
#66
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The SRIII chassis with c6 suspension for the convertible will be picked up next week. I went with Z06 Calipers on this one. Are they necessary, absolutely not, but people seem to think bigger is better, so why not go with more bling!?!
#68
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The new rear deck showed up today, so as soon as the new SRIII Chassis arrives, I will be able to start bonding the fiberglass in place.
Here is the old rear deck, which judging by the color of the fiberglass, looks to be from a 65 or 66
And here are the wheels I am considering in 18" all around
Here is the old rear deck, which judging by the color of the fiberglass, looks to be from a 65 or 66
And here are the wheels I am considering in 18" all around
#70
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Thread Starter
#72
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Found some nice correct doors on ebay for a great price. The car came with 64-66 doors, which i now have for sale. I suppose it wasn't really necessary to have doors with the raised pads since it's a restomod, but i felt the need to change them.
I started playing around with the bonding strips earlier this week. At first I thought it would be best to glue the taillamp and vertical quarter bonding strips to the rear deck, but quickly realized there was no real way to determine if they were in the correct position. So instead, I mounted the exhaust valence to the taillamp panel(im using a later model side exhaust panel, so i went with 64 up vertical bonding strips), lined up the vertical strips and bonded them in place. I then attached the taillamp bonding strip next.
I'm using 3m panel bond 8115 for the larger panels that require more time to make sure they are in the correct position.
I am using the bonding adhesive in the picture below (provided by sermershiem) for the smaller parts. It spreads and squeezes out of the panels just like the original adhesive.
I started playing around with the bonding strips earlier this week. At first I thought it would be best to glue the taillamp and vertical quarter bonding strips to the rear deck, but quickly realized there was no real way to determine if they were in the correct position. So instead, I mounted the exhaust valence to the taillamp panel(im using a later model side exhaust panel, so i went with 64 up vertical bonding strips), lined up the vertical strips and bonded them in place. I then attached the taillamp bonding strip next.
I'm using 3m panel bond 8115 for the larger panels that require more time to make sure they are in the correct position.
I am using the bonding adhesive in the picture below (provided by sermershiem) for the smaller parts. It spreads and squeezes out of the panels just like the original adhesive.
#76
Safety Car
Thread Starter
8 Hours. That is how long it took to fit the rear deck panel to the tub and finally bond it in place. Misery!
I used 3M panel Bond on the deck since I knew I was going to need to make a lot of adjustments after setting it in place on the tub. If I had used quick set adhesive I would have been screwed! It took me well over 30 minutes to get the deck aligned correctly and clamped in place and that was after 2 or 3 dry test runs.
I also started trimming and test fitting the new rear wheel wells and floor.
I used 3M panel Bond on the deck since I knew I was going to need to make a lot of adjustments after setting it in place on the tub. If I had used quick set adhesive I would have been screwed! It took me well over 30 minutes to get the deck aligned correctly and clamped in place and that was after 2 or 3 dry test runs.
I also started trimming and test fitting the new rear wheel wells and floor.
#77
You Sir do an amazing work! I'm Just grateful to spectate from the side line.
#78
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I hope others learn from my experience and only purchase a car that they inspect in person or that they have inspected. I paid 12,000 for the car, but my expenses have already soared to $25,000 in the body and for parts, and that is after selling the frame and front clip for $2600.00.
Again, start with a solid car with parts! I could have purchased a nice driver for 35,000-40,000, sold off the parts, and been at the same price, but minus the 500 hours of labor or so i have into the car already.
BTW, avoid a guy named VetteMatt on ebay!!!
#79
Safety Car
Thread Starter
5 hours 2.5 hours was spent repairing the hinge pillar and the other time was spent bonding the quarter panel bonding strips in place and fitting the tail lamp and quarter panels.
I've finally made the last rust repair on this car. Initially I thought someone had just scavenged one of the deck lid hinge springs, but that was not the case...the portion that holds the spring on the bottom of the hinge assembly was no more. I suppose this is somewhat common since Corvette central sells a large repair piece or just the spring hook.
I tried everything to get the lower bolt out, but finally had to throw in the towel and cut it off.
Repair complete and new spring installed.
I've finally made the last rust repair on this car. Initially I thought someone had just scavenged one of the deck lid hinge springs, but that was not the case...the portion that holds the spring on the bottom of the hinge assembly was no more. I suppose this is somewhat common since Corvette central sells a large repair piece or just the spring hook.
I tried everything to get the lower bolt out, but finally had to throw in the towel and cut it off.
Repair complete and new spring installed.
#80
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Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Coloring within the lines
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This just might be my favorite reality show right now.
Your work is admirable.
Your work is admirable.