DucatiDon

Cant do anything at this point until I get the cam and timing set delivered...

And that may be a few weeks.
Bought the wife a new wedding ring this weekend, and blew my engine fund.
I think it was worth it though.....

Still undecided between the Straub Cam and the Howards..... its a $200 difference!

DucatiDon

Lets see...This week I installed the oil pump, Fuel pump plate, Oil pressure line fitting, and sourced motor mount and water pump bolts....all prettified with orange paint.
Got new woodruff keys, Cloyes billet timing set, degree wheel and cam lock plate ready.
Waiting for a cam.
I think I will try the Howard 635. I know I will need to upgrade my mufflers to high flow duals. No problem there. I may even try to squeeze 3" pipes under the car.

Oil pump pickup and retainer are on standby for the oil pan (which is on the other engine in the car)

Once the cam is installed and degreed, I can get the heads ordered with the correct springs. I will also be trying Howards Max Effort roller lifters. I had the street versions on my L82 and didnt notice the noise other have, but i dont think they will be strong enough for this cam.

Lets see what else.....

DucatiDon

I have a quandary..Ive tried two different calculators and come up with two different DCRs, anywhere from 7.9 to 9.7.

The cam I'm looking at has 290 advertised duration, 110 Lobe centerline, 106 Intake center, 4 degrees advance ground in

Intake Opens 12.5
Intake closes 44.5

If I calculate with the duration, lobe center and advance i get 8.2 which is good.
if I calculate with the intake closing # I get 9.7 too high...

Thoughts? What did I do wrong?

claysmoker

Using Wallace?

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

What's the static compression ratio?

What cam did you decide on?

Those cam numbers are at .050" Correct?

DucatiDon

I brainfarted...too early in the am...LOL
I wasn't calculating ABDC correctly. It's 71...I had just plugged I the degree from the cam card.

At 71 I have 8.2 DCR. No worries


Numbers are at .050 off the cam card.
Static is 10.89

Howard's 110635-10. 290/290 .56/.56

claysmoker

Sounds like you'll be fine.

65tripleblack

DucatiDon

Cam in and degreed. Matches the cam card.

No immediate conflict between lobes and rods.
Will check clearances tomorrow.

Selecting a cam button...they list sizes (.795 for example). Where are these measurements taken from?

I'll measure end play tomorrow too.

Gdnite

claysmoker

That's the length of the button. The button should have been plugged into the cam gear and under the cam lock plate(if you're using one) when you degree'd the cam.

The button length needs to be trimmed to set the cam end play.

DucatiDon

Checked lobe to rod clearance (what a bitch that is! ). No issues with current cam timing.

So, I kind of do this *** backwards...check my math...

End play between timing cover and cam bolts verified with dial indicator at 0.105. Distance between cam face and cam bolts with lock plate installed is 0.58. (.58+.105= .685). To get .005 I can use a .680 button. (.680+.005= .685). That also allows for up to .005 flex.

Sound right? I've done this before but it's been a long time.

claysmoker

That's probably ok, but too much room for error for me.

I use a dial indicator with a long finger to reach through a lifter hole and pick up a cam lobe. Since I'm guessing you don't have one, I would leave the button a little long per your measurements and bolt the timing cover with the gasket on to check. You can gently pry on a cam lobe through a lifter hole to check play(use a piece of rubber hose over the screwdriver shank to prevent damaging the lifter hole). .005" end play isn't much but you'll get a feel for it. If it's a couple thou tight, it will loosen up when the parts get hot anyway. A tad tight is better than too loose.

claysmoker

Did you get that thing handled yet Don?

DucatiDon

Cam button arrives today. Ill post the results after i get it installed and recheck the play.
The Cloyes gear set came with a Torrington bearing, although there arent any clearance issues on my block without it installed. Never used a Torrington before. Any advice? I guess it cant hurt anything.

Im wishing I had a fancy dial indicator with that 90* finger thingy...

Hoping for AFR heads from Santa Claus....

claysmoker

I'm pretty sure the cam sprocket is relieved on the rear to accommodate the Torrington. Just make sure the cam and crank sprockets are parallel with it in place and you'll be fine.

I have a lot of little tools that make putting an engine together easier, most of it is stuff I had when I built two strokes as a business.

Thought you already had the AFR's?

DucatiDon

Nope, not yet. Working in stages. Easier on the wallet.

DucatiDon

OK, Cam thrust fully assembled with timing chain and cover comes out at .032


So for those who may try to do this themselves, here is my process:

install cam without timing chain, and slightly pull it forward. Install timing cover with gasket and torque bolts to spec. The cover should just push the cam into place.

Remove timing cover and set up dial indicator on the face of the block, with the pointer at 0 touching the front of the cam. (I used the head of a cam bolt) push the cam into the block and note the measurement. (A)
Find the measurement of the cam bolt head to the face of the block at the timing seal surface (B) and the depth of the face of the timing cover from the gasket surface (C) and the thickness of the timing gasket (D)

The cam button then should be ( B + C + D ) - A = cam face to timing cover distance. Subtract .005-,001 for end play and order that length button. Note: In my case the cam face to gear face was deeper than the cam button base.... a .1 difference. This threw everything off.

With the cam button and timing chain installed, reinstall timing cover and gasket and torque to spec. Nudge the cam forward gently using a screwdriver on the side of a lobe until it stops at the timing cover.
Remove the timing cover, set up dial indicator again at 0, and press the cam back into the block. This measurement is the final cam end play.

I checked each measurement like three times to ensure no mistakes were made.

Note also that the torrington style cam bearings such as the Lunati or Howards or Com Cams, have some play as well...mine had .01 in play, from fully compressed to fully extended. The listed sizes are compressed.

Any thoughts from the gallery ??

DucatiDon

deleted for clarity

claysmoker

You really need to use a long button and trim to length. You're not buying one in the length you need.

Am I missing something here?

As long as you end up around. 005"+or- it should be fine. I know lots of guys that set them at 0.

Happy Thanksgiving!

DucatiDon

Happy Thanksgiving !!

Somewhere my math or measurements were off....Yep the cam button itself. I don't believe I had it fully seated to the cam face. There is almost .1 free play behind the button. I am guessing that when I was pushing the cam against the cover, the button was being pushed back to the cam face, accounting for .1 additional free play.
(although why a .04 washer solves the problem Im not fathoming..)

If I put a .04 washer BEHIND the cam button I get .005 play. Perfect.
Funny, what brought this to my attention was the arp cam bolts were taller than the cam button.....
Cant use the ARP cam bolts unless I can find some that have shorter heads.

claysmoker

It's always something!

I wouldn't have any problem at all with a shim. The right steel washer should work fine. It's all going to be nearly in compression anyway so it can't get out of there.