Solid Lifter Valve Lash
#1
Instructor
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Solid Lifter Valve Lash
I have a 63 FI car with newly refurbished FI unit just installed. On initial start up I had a lot of backfiring. Checked firing order, plug wires,and distributor alignment. All seemed OK. Then I pulled the valve covers and found many of the rockers very loose. I had set the valve lash according to spec a couple of months ago. I read somewhere that the nuts on the rocker arms are single use items. Is this true? What else would explain rockers loosening? the engine was not moved during the interval.
#3
Burning Brakes
The solid lifters do need checked and adjusted regularly. I don't drive my 65FI a lot, just weekends and car shows/cruises etc. and the occasional romp somewhere for lunch, but need to adjust them at least once a year, sometimes twice depending on amount of use, so check them at each oil change. Follow the procedure to rotate and adjust at TDC - 90 - 180 -270 and set to the proper specs for your engine and it will run great. I set mine cold, and have an adapter I bolt to the balancer to turn the engine with a breaker bar, all plugs out to inspect anyway makes it easier. Just that garage tinkering stuff we all like to do. While mine have needed some tweaking they never got loose enough to cause any misfire issues. Jeff
#4
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I think it would be fair to say if you took the rocker nuts all the way off, just put new ones back on. If the only turning they see is an occasional adjustment every 10-12 thousand miles, they'll last the life of the car.
#5
Race Director
When I replaced the head gasket on my ZZ4, I reused the old rocker nuts. I got valve noise shortly after start up, thought I had done something wrong, re tightened everything to spec.
Second start up produced the same result. Did some checking and found out that that nuts are intended as single use. Bought a new set, put everything back together, no problems.
Apparently the nuts are produced with some kind of very minor internal "crimp" in the threaded opening that produces a locking effect on first use. When you run 'em on and then off again that is lost. I don't fully understand that feature or exactly how it works - I just know from personal experience that it does!
Learn something new every day!
Second start up produced the same result. Did some checking and found out that that nuts are intended as single use. Bought a new set, put everything back together, no problems.
Apparently the nuts are produced with some kind of very minor internal "crimp" in the threaded opening that produces a locking effect on first use. When you run 'em on and then off again that is lost. I don't fully understand that feature or exactly how it works - I just know from personal experience that it does!
Learn something new every day!
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The solid lifters do need checked and adjusted regularly. I don't drive my 65FI a lot, just weekends and car shows/cruises etc. and the occasional romp somewhere for lunch, but need to adjust them at least once a year, sometimes twice depending on amount of use, so check them at each oil change.
I adjusted the solids on my '60 last summer out of necessity after having to remove and re-install one of the cylinder heads.
Prior to that the last time I adjusted them was...... well..... I really don't remember but sometime before Y2K.
Jim
#7
Race Director
If you have to adjust solids that often, you might have something wrong..... maybe the adjusting nuts are beyond their "use by" date.
I adjusted the solids on my '60 last summer out of necessity after having to remove and re-install one of the cylinder heads.
Prior to that the last time I adjusted them was...... well..... I really don't remember but sometime before Y2K.
Jim
I adjusted the solids on my '60 last summer out of necessity after having to remove and re-install one of the cylinder heads.
Prior to that the last time I adjusted them was...... well..... I really don't remember but sometime before Y2K.
Jim
Larry
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#9
Burning Brakes
If you have to adjust solids that often, you might have something wrong..... maybe the adjusting nuts are beyond their "use by" date.
I adjusted the solids on my '60 last summer out of necessity after having to remove and re-install one of the cylinder heads.
Prior to that the last time I adjusted them was...... well..... I really don't remember but sometime before Y2K.
Jim
I adjusted the solids on my '60 last summer out of necessity after having to remove and re-install one of the cylinder heads.
Prior to that the last time I adjusted them was...... well..... I really don't remember but sometime before Y2K.
Jim
But anyway, if the OP finds them so loose his engine backfires there is something else going on, perhaps the one time use hardware problem as noted by others.
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You might want to get a set of ARP Locking Nuts. They are the ones with the set screw in the middle. I found the standard nuts are stiff to turn and are difficult to get an accurate gap. The ARPs are loose until you sent the screw. I adjust mine hot and running, but you need the rocker clips so the oil does not shoot everywhere.
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#13
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You might want to get a set of ARP Locking Nuts. They are the ones with the set screw in the middle. I found the standard nuts are stiff to turn and are difficult to get an accurate gap. The ARPs are loose until you sent the screw. I adjust mine hot and running, but you need the rocker clips so the oil does not shoot everywhere.
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Here's the method I've been using for many years. IMHO, this is the easiest way to do it.
I just did the solids on my 63 a few months ago. I hadn't touched them for 5-6 years, and they were still pretty close when I re-did them.
Rotate the motor until you have #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed).
Adjust clearance on intake valves 1,2,5,7 and exhaust valves 1,3,4,8.
Then rotate the motor 1 revolution so you're on TDC on #6.
Then adjust intake valves 3,4,6,8 and exhaust valves 2,5,6,7.
I have an 097 Duntov cam, and it calls for .008I hot and .018E hot. I set them at .010I cold and .020E cold.
I just did the solids on my 63 a few months ago. I hadn't touched them for 5-6 years, and they were still pretty close when I re-did them.
Rotate the motor until you have #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed).
Adjust clearance on intake valves 1,2,5,7 and exhaust valves 1,3,4,8.
Then rotate the motor 1 revolution so you're on TDC on #6.
Then adjust intake valves 3,4,6,8 and exhaust valves 2,5,6,7.
I have an 097 Duntov cam, and it calls for .008I hot and .018E hot. I set them at .010I cold and .020E cold.
#15
Race Director
You might want to get a set of ARP Locking Nuts. They are the ones with the set screw in the middle. I found the standard nuts are stiff to turn and are difficult to get an accurate gap. The ARPs are loose until you sent the screw. I adjust mine hot and running, but you need the rocker clips so the oil does not shoot everywhere.
Larry
#16
Racer
Another very popular method of adjusting solid lifter valve lash is the EOIC method (exhaust open / intake closed).
This method is extremely simple providing it's done in conjunction with a remote "bump" starter switch which is available at Harbor freight for $11.00.
But I agree, you should DEFINITELY replace the adjusting nuts.
Note: there are a number of videos available on line that demonstrate this simple technique.
Good luck !
This method is extremely simple providing it's done in conjunction with a remote "bump" starter switch which is available at Harbor freight for $11.00.
But I agree, you should DEFINITELY replace the adjusting nuts.
Note: there are a number of videos available on line that demonstrate this simple technique.
Good luck !
Last edited by 1966STER; 05-07-2014 at 06:05 PM.
#17
Team Owner
Here's the method I've been using for many years. IMHO, this is the easiest way to do it.
I just did the solids on my 63 a few months ago. I hadn't touched them for 5-6 years, and they were still pretty close when I re-did them.
Rotate the motor until you have #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed).
Adjust clearance on intake valves 1,2,5,7 and exhaust valves 1,3,4,8.
Then rotate the motor 1 revolution so you're on TDC on #6.
Then adjust intake valves 3,4,6,8 and exhaust valves 2,5,6,7.
I have an 097 Duntov cam, and it calls for .008I hot and .018E hot. I set them at .010I cold and .020E cold.
I just did the solids on my 63 a few months ago. I hadn't touched them for 5-6 years, and they were still pretty close when I re-did them.
Rotate the motor until you have #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed).
Adjust clearance on intake valves 1,2,5,7 and exhaust valves 1,3,4,8.
Then rotate the motor 1 revolution so you're on TDC on #6.
Then adjust intake valves 3,4,6,8 and exhaust valves 2,5,6,7.
I have an 097 Duntov cam, and it calls for .008I hot and .018E hot. I set them at .010I cold and .020E cold.
I'm told this won't work well on a 30-30 cam but then I don't have one in either car...
#18
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I put my 327/360 together about 8-9 years ago. I finally got around to changing the oil and adjusting the valves in it a few weeks ago.