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Building a scale `67 Corvette L-88 version of the $3.5 million car

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Old 09-27-2014, 03:57 PM
  #81  
A-Snake
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Originally Posted by Hawk312
Really getting close now. Just waiting for my wheels to be chromed, and possibly some bumpers at this point.

Thanks to those of you who are sending me PM`s and helping me with the details!
Don't forget the interior of the cowl under the air intake grills is blacked out.
Old 09-27-2014, 04:07 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by SpartyGW
So what is that decal on the radiator support? I'm curious
I`ve been told it is a "Harrison Aluminum Radiator Label."
Old 09-27-2014, 09:29 PM
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I meant this one here...what does it say on it?


Old 09-27-2014, 09:57 PM
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It may be the white radiator inspection stamp..... "16 CT" in a rectangle. But I thought that was only for aluminum Harrison radiators.

The BB radiators were Harrison, but copper/brass, and I don't recall that they used either of those decals or the stamp.



There's a small Harrison plate on the right, at the tank on the vertical edge.

Like this...



MK for manual transmission cars and the rad part#

Old 09-28-2014, 07:37 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by rich5962
It may be the white radiator inspection stamp..... "16 CT" in a rectangle. But I thought that was only for aluminum Harrison radiators.

The BB radiators were Harrison, but copper/brass, and I don't recall that they used either of those decals or the stamp.
L-88's didn't use the same copper/brass radiator the other 427's used - they used a special wider version of the stacked-plate aluminum radiator used on small-blocks, very similar to the radiator used on the '65 L-78, which also required a unique radiator support. L-88's didn't use a shroud, either.
Old 09-28-2014, 08:20 PM
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Thanks for correcting me on that John, I didn't realize that.

So, in that case, that "16 CT" stamp is probably what that is then?

Rich
Old 11-17-2014, 04:05 PM
  #87  
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Major failure with the chrome on the wheels.

I got them back, and apparently my release agent caused problems, and the chrome was bubbled in places. I have them stripped now though, and am sending them back. Hopefully I will have them back in a couple weeks. I never thought i would say this, but this might go to someone looking for a Christmas gift at this point. I never would have thought back in April that I would still be working on this one. Oh well. I`ll post an update as soon as I get the parts back. Some of the other parts I had sent look great, so I am hopeful!
Old 11-17-2014, 11:47 PM
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Default I actually stopped having parts chromed and switched to the Alcad products

Originally Posted by Hawk312
Major failure with the chrome on the wheels.

I got them back, and apparently my release agent caused problems, and the chrome was bubbled in places. I have them stripped now though, and am sending them back. Hopefully I will have them back in a couple weeks. I never thought i would say this, but this might go to someone looking for a Christmas gift at this point. I never would have thought back in April that I would still be working on this one. Oh well. I`ll post an update as soon as I get the parts back. Some of the other parts I had sent look great, so I am hopeful!
Don't know if you have tried those!
Old 11-18-2014, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA
Don't know if you have tried those!
??
Old 11-22-2014, 03:13 AM
  #90  
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Default your modeling is top notch!!

Originally Posted by Hawk312
??
But do check out the Alclad2.com website or Alclad paint line of high end finishes! i think i spelled the name wrong above.
Old 11-22-2014, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA
But do check out the Alclad2.com website or Alclad paint line of high end finishes! i think i spelled the name wrong above.
Ahhh...I guess you meant to ask about Aclad? Since I don't use an air brush, I have yet to try it. I have tried Spaztix though, which does a decent job. But it is not good enough for this project.

I have the wheels sent out again to be chromed. Once they are back and on, I will post completed pics and list the auction.
Old 11-22-2014, 07:19 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by bluestreak63
I think whoever bought the real one, saw your work on this model, they would buy it in an instant...I know I would.

By the way, how come the clock doesn't work?
Got to wait for the miniature battery to be hooked up before the clock will work.

This is an AWESOME build.

I am afraid to ask what sort of money these models go for
Old 11-22-2014, 07:27 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by emccomas
Got to wait for the miniature battery to be hooked up before the clock will work.

This is an AWESOME build.

I am afraid to ask what sort of money these models go for
This one will likely be in the $1k range or so.
Old 11-22-2014, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawk312
This one will likely be in the $1k range or so.
Not an unreasonable price.

You certainly cannot buy one 12 times as large for 12 times the money.

Beautiful work.
Old 11-23-2014, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by emccomas
Not an unreasonable price.

You certainly cannot buy one 12 times as large for 12 times the money.

Beautiful work.
Thanks!

Yeah, we will see. I see the FM die casts going for $500ish, and some asking as much as $3k on Ebay. I never had problems selling them before, but who knows in this economy.
Old 12-11-2014, 10:03 AM
  #96  
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More on the on-going wheel drama.
I received the wheels, with the same bubbling chrome:



Soooooo

I just had to get this right. So lots of research with other resin casters, and a whole new master and new mold later, I am casting completely new wheels (in the foreground)




The primer is the master and the silverish one was a test with Spaztix before casting more of them. Making the new master actually gave me the chance to work out a couple little imperfections that were on the previous masters.
So the new wheels are off to be chromed as of this morning. Between the multiple shipments to the platers, a new set of casting resin, and a new set of mold silicon, these wheels are getting very expensive. I could probably have a set of full size 1:1 ralley wheels at this cost.
Old 12-30-2014, 02:51 PM
  #97  
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Well, I just received the `67 wheels back from the chrome platers today. And the third batch is worse than the first. So the wheels will not work out. I hate to do this, but I will be putting the `68 style wheels on this, putting everything together, and then will post some finished pics, and maybe a link to the auction once I get it up.

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Old 12-30-2014, 05:39 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Hawk312
Well, I just received the `67 wheels back from the chrome platers today. And the third batch is worse than the first. So the wheels will not work out. I hate to do this, but I will be putting the `68 style wheels on this, putting everything together, and then will post some finished pics, and maybe a link to the auction once I get it up.

why not use the bolt on wheels that come with the kit. that would look much better then the wrong hub caps
Old 12-30-2014, 06:21 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
why not use the bolt on wheels that come with the kit. that would look much better then the wrong hub caps
Do you mean the stock turbine style wheels? I thought the 68 rallys, though they are not the 67 hub cap style, would look closer to the 1:1 car that I am trying to replicate. Do you think I should go with the kit stock wheels instead?
Old 12-30-2014, 07:20 PM
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Yeah go with the stock wheels that came with the kit. 68 on ralley caps stick out like a sore thumb on mid years. Real car or not


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