headlamp confusion...
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
headlamp confusion...
I am trying to sort out how the headlamps are supposed to work, my 64 came with none functioning (the lamps themselves are ok)
Here are my questions, some may sound stupid...
1. one of the lamps is two prone (inboard), the other 3 prone (outboard). The 2 prone is low beam only , the 3 prone low beam and high beam . Is this correct?
2. why on the shop manual wiring scheme, there are TWO 3-prone lamps drawn?
3. does this mean that in low beam mode , both lamps are fed and shine with voltage at their low beam input connector?
4. in high beam mode, there is voltage at ALL lamp connectors, having low beam ON on both inboard/outboard and high beam ON on the outboard lamp. Is this correct?
5. Switching between high and low beam is with the 'dimmer switch' left to the pedals (in the user guide it is called 'headlight high beam switch). Correct?
6. Zip (and others) sell halogen versions, one called low beam, the other high beam. I assume the high beam one has both lo and hi?
Here are my questions, some may sound stupid...
1. one of the lamps is two prone (inboard), the other 3 prone (outboard). The 2 prone is low beam only , the 3 prone low beam and high beam . Is this correct?
2. why on the shop manual wiring scheme, there are TWO 3-prone lamps drawn?
3. does this mean that in low beam mode , both lamps are fed and shine with voltage at their low beam input connector?
4. in high beam mode, there is voltage at ALL lamp connectors, having low beam ON on both inboard/outboard and high beam ON on the outboard lamp. Is this correct?
5. Switching between high and low beam is with the 'dimmer switch' left to the pedals (in the user guide it is called 'headlight high beam switch). Correct?
6. Zip (and others) sell halogen versions, one called low beam, the other high beam. I assume the high beam one has both lo and hi?
#2
Le Mans Master
I am trying to sort out how the headlamps are supposed to work, my 64 came with none functioning (the lamps themselves are ok)
Here are my questions, some may sound stupid...
1. one of the lamps is two prone (inboard), the other 3 prone (outboard). The 2 prone is low beam only , the 3 prone low beam and high beam . Is this correct?
2. why on the shop manual wiring scheme, there are TWO 3-prone lamps drawn?
3. does this mean that in low beam mode , both lamps are fed and shine with voltage at their low beam input connector?
4. in high beam mode, there is voltage at ALL lamp connectors, having low beam ON on both inboard/outboard and high beam ON on the outboard lamp. Is this correct?
5. Switching between high and low beam is with the 'dimmer switch' left to the pedals (in the user guide it is called 'headlight high beam switch). Correct?
6. Zip (and others) sell halogen versions, one called low beam, the other high beam. I assume the high beam one has both lo and hi?
Here are my questions, some may sound stupid...
1. one of the lamps is two prone (inboard), the other 3 prone (outboard). The 2 prone is low beam only , the 3 prone low beam and high beam . Is this correct?
2. why on the shop manual wiring scheme, there are TWO 3-prone lamps drawn?
3. does this mean that in low beam mode , both lamps are fed and shine with voltage at their low beam input connector?
4. in high beam mode, there is voltage at ALL lamp connectors, having low beam ON on both inboard/outboard and high beam ON on the outboard lamp. Is this correct?
5. Switching between high and low beam is with the 'dimmer switch' left to the pedals (in the user guide it is called 'headlight high beam switch). Correct?
6. Zip (and others) sell halogen versions, one called low beam, the other high beam. I assume the high beam one has both lo and hi?
#3
Pro
The outboard lights are high and low. The inboard are high only. When you switch to high beam the low filament in the outboard lights go out and the high filament comes on in addition to the inboard lights.
#4
Team Owner
The tan wire feeds the outboard lights only on dim. When you switch the dimmer to high, the voltage is fed via the lt green wire to all four headlamps (different filament in the outboard lights than the tan wire feeds on dim) and of course the black wire is ground on all four lamps.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Most report weak light in low beam. Wouldn't it make sense then to have both inboard and outboard 'low' beam bulbs lighting up together, and the outboard one with hi beam capability?
#6
Team Owner
I guess they didn't want four lamps lit on dim. It's already like you said except for both lamps on each side lighting on dim. It could be rewired and dual filament bulbs put in if you allowed for the extra current in the wires and headlamp switch circuit breaker and dimmer switch current rating..
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I will rewire anyway to include relays. I am trying to get better performance at reasonable cost. Halogen is a cheap option, and if I install two hi/lo beam bulbs combined each side, result should be way better than original single low beam setting.
#8
Team Owner
Try the halogen with the relays first before you reinvent the wheel. I run this combo on my '61 with the original Hi/LO configuration on each side (4 headlights total) and the high beams are better than on my modern cars....
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Makes sense, it's the no fuzz solution that still works on millions of modern cars. And because it's 4 full headlights, should be even better, as you experienced..
#10
Pro
I think if you wire it for all 4 on in dim mode and all 4 on on bright mode all approaching traffic will think your brights are on even on dim mode. Be prepared for everyone flashing their bright lights at you and if it's a cop he may get upset when you don't go down to 2 lights on.
#11
Le Mans Master
Excuse the ignorance here, but what relays are you referring to? I thought the halogens were a "plug & play" replacement for the stock T3.
#12
Melting Slicks
They are. The relays are an add on.
Sorry, didn't realize the question was for Frankie.
Sorry, didn't realize the question was for Frankie.
Last edited by Gary's '66; 06-03-2014 at 08:43 PM.
#14
Le Mans Master
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
the relays feed the 12V directly from battery (through a fusebox) to the bulbs. The relays are on/off-ed with the light switch.
Advantage is no high current through the switch (causing heat and loss of voltage) and shorter wiring (less voltage loss). So all in all higher voltage at the bulbs so more light
Advantage is no high current through the switch (causing heat and loss of voltage) and shorter wiring (less voltage loss). So all in all higher voltage at the bulbs so more light
#16
Team Owner
the relays feed the 12V directly from battery (through a fusebox) to the bulbs. The relays are on/off-ed with the light switch.
Advantage is no high current through the switch (causing heat and loss of voltage) and shorter wiring (less voltage loss). So all in all higher voltage at the bulbs so more light
Advantage is no high current through the switch (causing heat and loss of voltage) and shorter wiring (less voltage loss). So all in all higher voltage at the bulbs so more light
Halogens have the same current draw as original T3s (or so I am told) but the voltage drop due to old wiring will affect those just like they did original lights. You can just plug them in but they might not be as bright as they could be.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 06-04-2014 at 05:55 AM.
#17
Here's the one I use from summit racing just for headlights .I split them up at the floor dimmer switch two splices and done ,I don't go thru light switch. Just tap off fuse box for high beams lights. leave the stock circuit by itself.
#18
Team Owner
That actually looks like a slicker setup than the Mad Electric product and makes it easier to preserve the original wiring IMO
#19
Le Mans Master
the relays feed the 12V directly from battery (through a fusebox) to the bulbs. The relays are on/off-ed with the light switch.
Advantage is no high current through the switch (causing heat and loss of voltage) and shorter wiring (less voltage loss). So all in all higher voltage at the bulbs so more light
Advantage is no high current through the switch (causing heat and loss of voltage) and shorter wiring (less voltage loss). So all in all higher voltage at the bulbs so more light
#20
Le Mans Master
Precisely - I made up my own kit but there are kits commercially available. http://madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml
Halogens have the same current draw as original T3s (or so I am told) but the voltage drop due to old wiring will affect those just like they did original lights. You can just plug them in but they might not be as bright as they could be.
Halogens have the same current draw as original T3s (or so I am told) but the voltage drop due to old wiring will affect those just like they did original lights. You can just plug them in but they might not be as bright as they could be.