coil wet w oil where wire goes in
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
coil wet w oil where wire goes in
need opinion on a coil...seems when I pulled the coil wire out of the coil there was signs of oil on the copper coil wire that goes inside the coil and some on the boot.....no traces of oil any where else on the coil just where the coil wire goes in...is this eccell coil starting to go bad or leaking oil for some reason? replace it ?
#2
Le Mans Master
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Replace it. I know on C1 with petronix you cannot leave the ignition to the on position for too since it will cause the coil to heat up and explode the top. Been through that once or twice... Cheap part. I bought an extra to leave in the trunk just in case it happens again.
Last edited by jimh_1962; 06-10-2014 at 01:19 PM.
#3
Team Owner
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need opinion on a coil...seems when I pulled the coil wire out of the coil there was signs of oil on the copper coil wire that goes inside the coil and some on the boot.....no traces of oil any where else on the coil just where the coil wire goes in...is this eccell coil starting to go bad or leaking oil for some reason? replace it ?
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
coil wet
Ok I did it my self left the key in the on position and bingo it's wet so thanks for the rapid reply and will get new coil...I did check w/ the supplier regarding the correct coil for pertronics III and he said any 12 volt coil will work...do you guys agree?
bluzrocker
bluzrocker
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
ceramic resistor or the resistor wires (if you have TI) hooked up
Have pertronix III distributor (no points) and was told no need for ballast resistor. Am I missing something...I have at this point removed the ballast resistor and hooked the two wires together to complet the circuit...it the resistor related to the coil?
#8
Team Owner
You do NOT want the ballast resistor and not just any old coil will do with Pertronix. Get an MSD Blaster II #8202; (they're red) take the label off and paint it black and install it. Its the last coil you'll need...
#10
Team Owner
A) the latter Petronix versions have better protection against leaving the key on, and,
B) that is not why I'm recommending the Blaster; its simply the best coil for sbc with electronic points conversion...
Its all I use and I believe that is all that Tom Parsons (DZAuto) uses as well on his converted cars.
B) that is not why I'm recommending the Blaster; its simply the best coil for sbc with electronic points conversion...
Its all I use and I believe that is all that Tom Parsons (DZAuto) uses as well on his converted cars.
#11
Safety Car
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A) the latter Petronix versions have better protection against leaving the key on, and,
B) that is not why I'm recommending the Blaster; its simply the best coil for sbc with electronic points conversion...
Its all I use and I believe that is all that Tom Parsons (DZAuto) uses as well on his converted cars.
B) that is not why I'm recommending the Blaster; its simply the best coil for sbc with electronic points conversion...
Its all I use and I believe that is all that Tom Parsons (DZAuto) uses as well on his converted cars.
#14
Race Director
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A) the latter Petronix versions have better protection against leaving the key on, and,
B) that is not why I'm recommending the Blaster; its simply the best coil for sbc with electronic points conversion...
Its all I use and I believe that is all that Tom Parsons (DZAuto) uses as well on his converted cars.
B) that is not why I'm recommending the Blaster; its simply the best coil for sbc with electronic points conversion...
Its all I use and I believe that is all that Tom Parsons (DZAuto) uses as well on his converted cars.
In the beginning (22yrs ago), when I installed my first PerTronix conversion, they said to use a heavy duty oil filled coil. At that time, the MSD Blaster II was the choice. Then, when PerTronix came out with their Flamethrower coil, I switched to that. BUUUUUUUUUUUT, after a few years, the Flamethrower coils that I bought were splitting open and puking oil. PerTronix replaced the first one free. The next one I bought (somewhere on the box or on the coil) said it was made south of the border. So I switched back to the MSD Blaster II. Yep, I buy the red one, peel off the label and paint it black.
I like, and use a PerTronix conversion in all of my point distributors-------------------but I only use the MSD coil.
#15
Drifting
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Apologize for the confusion. I had a Mallory Unilite in the car before I changed it back to TI and that needed less than 10V or it would blow the Unilite. There was also an MSD box in the car with a blaster coil.
#16
Team Owner
Yes, I've also run the UniLite - a fine product but they are VERY susceptible to voltage spikes. One of the few (only?) electrical components I've ever added to a car that has its own, optional surge protector you can buy and install (and you had better too!).
#18
Team Owner
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
flame thrower pertronics
well here's to report...the pertronics took a s#*t after couple of hours...while cranking over the engine to re-adjust valves(disconnected the coil wire from the coil..during the valve adjust could hear the coil discharging( put on the flame thrower (new )and after plugging the wire back in and trying to start the engine coil showed spark at the plugs but would not start the car..grabbed a pretty new NAPA coil and hooked it up and the car started...so read you guy's post on the
MSD 8020 coil...contacted Summit and will send Flame thrower back and get the MSD 8020 coil and peel off the red and paint black and run that one...I should have listened to you guy's
Bluzrocker
MSD 8020 coil...contacted Summit and will send Flame thrower back and get the MSD 8020 coil and peel off the red and paint black and run that one...I should have listened to you guy's
Bluzrocker
Last edited by bluzrocker; 06-28-2014 at 12:31 PM. Reason: add info