Replacing clutch on my 67
11-23-2014, 04:11 PM
#181
Le Mans Master
I know , it can be very frustrating , jack
11-23-2014, 04:27 PM
#182
Instructor
Member Since: Sep 2012
Location: memphis tennessee
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I haven't been driving it much at all (electrical gremlins hard at work) but it seems that the clutch is slipping some. I can not get ANY freeplay at the pedal. I tried everything but the TB must be touching the pressure plate. This is not a good thing I know. With the clutch pedal released I can hear a very faint spinning sound. (It's very faint, but I have dog like hearing) Push the clutch in and the spinning sound stops.
I guess that the pivot ball is just a hair too far out, isn't it? There is wear on the linkage z bar and rod to the clutch fork. The holes are slightly elongated. That shouldn't cause the no free play should it? The only free play that I get on the pedal is the slop from the elongated holes.
Do you guys think that this is the problem? I've lost count, but I think that I've pulled the tranny 4 times. Once didn't count as a full removal though, as the shifter wasn't on that time. Still, it looks like the 4.5 or 5th time is coming up.
Pull tranny, remove bell housing and adjust pivot ball about .080" towards the tranny? An old transmission shaft would probably help a lot in getting the fork at he correct angle. Sound like what I should do?
I guess that the pivot ball is just a hair too far out, isn't it? There is wear on the linkage z bar and rod to the clutch fork. The holes are slightly elongated. That shouldn't cause the no free play should it? The only free play that I get on the pedal is the slop from the elongated holes.
Do you guys think that this is the problem? I've lost count, but I think that I've pulled the tranny 4 times. Once didn't count as a full removal though, as the shifter wasn't on that time. Still, it looks like the 4.5 or 5th time is coming up.
Pull tranny, remove bell housing and adjust pivot ball about .080" towards the tranny? An old transmission shaft would probably help a lot in getting the fork at he correct angle. Sound like what I should do?
1. Install the composite one that came with the Luk set.
2. Put back in the correct pivot stud.
3. If you have slop in the linkage due to elongated holes, repair/replace those parts. With all the correct components in the system, it should work with free play. Your flywheel has plenty of life left.
If the bearing did leak, I hope the grease did not get on the disc. It slings behind the bearing around the bellhousing.
I just went though this issue. All is well now.
11-23-2014, 04:40 PM
#183
Racer
Thread Starter
Are you feeling a lot of vibration on the clutch pedal when the bearing just touches the fingers of the pressure plate? My guess it's noise is from the bearing. I had one federal bearing that failed and slung all the grease out the seal and caused a bad vibration at the pedal. It also made a faint noise. When the adjustable bearings fail, they become loose and don't mate up with the fingers correctly causing slipping/vibration/noise.
1. Install the composite one that came with the Luk set.
2. Put back in the correct pivot stud.
3. If you have slop in the linkage due to elongated holes, repair/replace those parts. With all the correct components in the system, it should work with free play. Your flywheel has plenty of life left.
If the bearing did leak, I hope the grease did not get on the disc. It slings behind the bearing around the bellhousing.
I just went though this issue. All is well now.
1. Install the composite one that came with the Luk set.
2. Put back in the correct pivot stud.
3. If you have slop in the linkage due to elongated holes, repair/replace those parts. With all the correct components in the system, it should work with free play. Your flywheel has plenty of life left.
If the bearing did leak, I hope the grease did not get on the disc. It slings behind the bearing around the bellhousing.
I just went though this issue. All is well now.
I hooked it up originally with the stock pivot ball (new one) and the TB was over 1/4 away from the pressure plate. It would push on the fingers some, but not enough to disengage the clutch to shift when the engine was running. When I put the McCleod adjustable one in, I had it .080 closer to make up for the thinner Luk clutch. It still wouldn't reach enough. So, took it out again and extended the pivot ball .124 and it worked. Shifts great. But, no freeplay so it is too close now I think.
11-23-2014, 05:06 PM
#184
Racer
Thread Starter
Oh, Timmay, I noticed in your post. I don't have an adjustable throw out bearing. I have a Centerforce N1716 bearing. The only internal part that is adjustable is the pivot ball.
11-23-2014, 07:15 PM
#185
Race Director
I haven't been driving it much at all (electrical gremlins hard at work) but it seems that the clutch is slipping some. I can not get ANY freeplay at the pedal. I tried everything but the TB must be touching the pressure plate. This is not a good thing I know. With the clutch pedal released I can hear a very faint spinning sound. (It's very faint, but I have dog like hearing) Push the clutch in and the spinning sound stops.
I guess that the pivot ball is just a hair too far out, isn't it? There is wear on the linkage z bar and rod to the clutch fork. The holes are slightly elongated. That shouldn't cause the no free play should it? The only free play that I get on the pedal is the slop from the elongated holes.
I guess that the pivot ball is just a hair too far out, isn't it? There is wear on the linkage z bar and rod to the clutch fork. The holes are slightly elongated. That shouldn't cause the no free play should it? The only free play that I get on the pedal is the slop from the elongated holes.