lifting point for body with 2 post lift
#1
lifting point for body with 2 post lift
Hi - I plan to lift the body off my 67 using a 2 post lift at home. the post "arms" can easily go under the edge of the birdcage, where those lifting straps might go if using an engine hoist and the straps. Most internet pics show this to be how it is done. Or, I have seen some people make fancy attachments to the lift to reach up under the birdcage.
I would think the birdcage would take the weight on the rolled edge where the lifting straps attach, especially if I ran a 2x4 between the arms along the length of the birdcage to minimize pressure at any one spot
anyone done this?
I plan to leave the body on the lift for several months, with extra support placed under the rear and front body mount locations using some creative wooden posts, to allow me to store the frame under the body. I dont have space for the body separate from the frame.
I would think the birdcage would take the weight on the rolled edge where the lifting straps attach, especially if I ran a 2x4 between the arms along the length of the birdcage to minimize pressure at any one spot
anyone done this?
I plan to leave the body on the lift for several months, with extra support placed under the rear and front body mount locations using some creative wooden posts, to allow me to store the frame under the body. I dont have space for the body separate from the frame.
#2
Team Owner
I pick it up just forward and aft of the door gaps.
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,857 Likes
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1,100 Posts
#9
I bought and installed the Max Jax lift in my basement. it works (despite missing a rubber washer o-ring, which I figured out eventually).
I first lifted the entire car to make sure it would hold and not fall over. Of course it did not fall over. Then I unbolted the body and lifted it off the frame. It was really easy (after extensive preparation and planning). I have the lift back of center relative to the car - in other words, the lifter is more to the back of the car than the front, since I think the rear of the coupe body is heavier than the front.
I put a long 2x4 of wood under most of the birdcage along the rocker panels, so the weight of the body is spread across most of the birdcage. the exposed birdcage is very narrow here, but lifted without any drama. I used c-clamps to hold the 2x4 to the lift pads, although I am not sure I needed to.
I plan to store the body above the frame while I work on the frame. As you can imagine, pulling the engine and trans once the body was off, was super easy and quick.
I used the 3 inch (or whatever they are) extensions under all the lift pads, and I have the body resting on the first of the two locking points. This clears the body enough for working on it, with some hunching over. I made a simple 2x4 support for the front end of the body, which is under the radiator supports. if the front end is not supported, it is very wobbly, and I fear something will crack. I also put 2x4's under the rear of the body, but not sure those really are necessary.
When I want to roll the frame out to work on it, i do have to lift the body a few inches higher temporarily. so easy to move the body using a lift.
pictures to follow
I first lifted the entire car to make sure it would hold and not fall over. Of course it did not fall over. Then I unbolted the body and lifted it off the frame. It was really easy (after extensive preparation and planning). I have the lift back of center relative to the car - in other words, the lifter is more to the back of the car than the front, since I think the rear of the coupe body is heavier than the front.
I put a long 2x4 of wood under most of the birdcage along the rocker panels, so the weight of the body is spread across most of the birdcage. the exposed birdcage is very narrow here, but lifted without any drama. I used c-clamps to hold the 2x4 to the lift pads, although I am not sure I needed to.
I plan to store the body above the frame while I work on the frame. As you can imagine, pulling the engine and trans once the body was off, was super easy and quick.
I used the 3 inch (or whatever they are) extensions under all the lift pads, and I have the body resting on the first of the two locking points. This clears the body enough for working on it, with some hunching over. I made a simple 2x4 support for the front end of the body, which is under the radiator supports. if the front end is not supported, it is very wobbly, and I fear something will crack. I also put 2x4's under the rear of the body, but not sure those really are necessary.
When I want to roll the frame out to work on it, i do have to lift the body a few inches higher temporarily. so easy to move the body using a lift.
pictures to follow
#11
Instructor
Thanks very much for posting pictures guys. I have a Max Jax and will be lifting the body in a few weeks to get things ready for the new SR III chassis. Has anyone used a similar method for a convertible?
My plan would be to use the lift just to take the body off, then support the back and front also after ther body's off.
Thanks very much,
Rick
My plan would be to use the lift just to take the body off, then support the back and front also after ther body's off.
Thanks very much,
Rick
#12
i have seen some people tie a rope connecting th top of the windshield frame to the radiator support up front to provide some stability to the front end. I think I would do that, although I am not sure how much it would do, since the direction of pull is going to be more front to back instead of the vertical support it needs.