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Replacing clutch cross-shaft stud welded to frame

Old 08-12-2014, 12:39 AM
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sprinter
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Default Replacing clutch cross-shaft stud welded to frame

Went to replace the clutch pushrod bushing and felt a lot of play in the cross-shaft. Unfortunately the cross-shaft ball stud was worn down and created a groove in the cross-shaft, so I will need to replace both.

Has anyone ever replaced the cross-shaft ball stud, and what is the best way to remove the press-fit stud from the bracket? Is it possible to tap the bracket to fit a later model threaded ball stud?

A small job has turned into a big job...again...
Old 08-12-2014, 08:07 AM
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Nowhere Man
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Isn't the ball stud threaded in?
Old 08-12-2014, 10:57 AM
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sprinter
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Isn't the ball stud threaded in?
No, it looks like it is press-fitted / punched into the bracket that is welded to the frame
Old 08-12-2014, 11:25 AM
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The frame bracket has a slot it slips into and. You tighten up a bolt that holds it into the bracket. The ball stud in block is threaded in.
Old 08-12-2014, 11:49 AM
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Pilot Dan
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Originally Posted by sprinter
No, it looks like it is press-fitted / punched into the bracket that is welded to the frame
Correct, the backside has the appearance of being peened over. I have never had to replace one, but if I did I would start by cutting the old one off with a grinder on the stud side very close to the frame bracket. Then use a Dremel on the backside to remove the factory flare. With that done, you should be able to lightly tap the center and the last little bit will fall out leaving a round hole to insert the new stud. Don't beat on the frame bracket as you don't want to upset the alignment geometry of the cross shaft. Get yourself a new ball stud and have a good shop weld it in from the backside. If you have the room and are careful you could peen it over first, but a weld is necessary I/M/O for a strong field repair with the body still in place. Pilot Dan
Old 08-12-2014, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
The frame bracket has a slot it slips into and. You tighten up a bolt that holds it into the bracket. The ball stud in block is threaded in.
Novas, Camaros are made that way!
Old 08-12-2014, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Novas, Camaros are made that way!
So are Chevelles. And last time I checked I was sure Corvettes were too
Old 08-12-2014, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilot Dan
Correct, the backside has the appearance of being peened over. I have never had to replace one, but if I did I would start by cutting the old one off with a grinder on the stud side very close to the frame bracket. Then use a Dremel on the backside to remove the factory flare. With that done, you should be able to lightly tap the center and the last little bit will fall out leaving a round hole to insert the new stud. Don't beat on the frame bracket as you don't want to upset the alignment geometry of the cross shaft. Get yourself a new ball stud and have a good shop weld it in from the backside. If you have the room and are careful you could peen it over first, but a weld is necessary I/M/O for a strong field repair with the body still in place. Pilot Dan
Any way I can use a later model threaded ball stud? Are the later model cross-shafts the same inside diameter?

Such a poorly designed part... Why not a bearing on the shaft instead of a ball???
Old 08-12-2014, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
So are Chevelles. And last time I checked I was sure Corvettes were too
I think the OP is working on a C1.
Old 08-12-2014, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
I think the OP is working on a C1.
Yes. 1962 vette
Old 08-12-2014, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sprinter
Any way I can use a later model threaded ball stud? Are the later model cross-shafts the same inside diameter?
I personally would not mix and try to match parts for an important item like this. It's an item that can easily leave you stuck somewhere. Find someone that welds to help you fix it the right way. While I was out with my 59 today, I took a look at this and I think the best way to approach it would be to have the car up on jack stands (a lift would be ideal) and remove the left splash shield, front wheel and washer tank (if you have one) and work from underneath. That will give you the most room to work. On a lift raised about 4 ft would be perfect for the easiest access.
Old 08-12-2014, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sprinter

Such a poorly designed part... Why not a bearing on the shaft instead of a ball???
Actually a good design.. It lasted 50 years!

Anyway, the ball stud is to accommodate spherical movement. The shaft must both rotate to operate the clutch and rotate in an axis 90* to the first, to accommodate engine mount movement. A simple bushing or bearing would bind. Again.. Good design. Pretty bright guys at GM!

Harry
Old 08-12-2014, 04:16 PM
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Actually, the replacement part is the clutch cross shaft bracket, which comes with the ball stud attached,,, You cut the old one off the frame and weld the new one on, Welding on just the ball stud wouldn't be any easier, and which stud would you use?
Not very hard to do, I replaced the one on my 56, with the body on, without a lift... used a sawzall to cut the old one off, IIRC...

Guess you could grind off the stud, and bolt the new stud to the bracket,,, But it isn't that hard to change...
Good luck which ever way you go...

Regards,
John

Last edited by knockbill; 08-12-2014 at 04:25 PM.
Old 08-12-2014, 05:58 PM
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Roger Walling
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It might be easier to weld up the worn ball and grind it round again.
How good are you with a Dremel?
Old 08-12-2014, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Walling
It might be easier to weld up the worn ball and grind it round again.
How good are you with a Dremel?
Wuz thinkin' the same thing but I always did like a good shortcut!

Old 08-12-2014, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sprinter
Yes. 1962 vette
62 is welded, ignore the comments about a slot or bolt
Old 08-12-2014, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 62Jeff
62 is welded, ignore the comments about a slot or bolt
I guess the first question I should have asked was the year

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Old 08-12-2014, 08:44 PM
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Paragon has the ball stud by itself.
Old 08-13-2014, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 66since71
Anyway, the ball stud is to accommodate spherical movement. The shaft must both rotate to operate the clutch and rotate in an axis 90* to the first, to accommodate engine mount movement. A simple bushing or bearing would bind. Harry
Thanks - I didnt realize it had to rotate on the ball, but this makes sense.

As suggested, I will remove the splashguard and work from underneath, and will cut the ball off and bang it out before welding the new one in (they are only $7/ea). I just wish the ball that destroyed itself was the one on the removable bracket instead of the welded. The ball stud mounted to the motor was only slightly worn, but I am replacing it anyway while I am in there.

After a bit of searching, I found a good writeup here also:
http://www.rarecorvettes.com/RARE/ClutchLinkage.html


Originally Posted by Roger Walling
How good are you with a Dremel?
Not that good... and for $7 for a replacement ball stud, not worth the effort.
Old 08-13-2014, 06:31 PM
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nicholvette62
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Originally Posted by sprinter
Went to replace the clutch pushrod bushing and felt a lot of play in the cross-shaft. Unfortunately the cross-shaft ball stud was worn down and created a groove in the cross-shaft, so I will need to replace both.

Has anyone ever replaced the cross-shaft ball stud, and what is the best way to remove the press-fit stud from the bracket? Is it possible to tap the bracket to fit a later model threaded ball stud?

A small job has turned into a big job...again...
Grind the end of the stud. Knock the stud out of the bracket, insert new stud and weld the end of the stud to bracket on the end I replaced mine on my 62, body was off frame it will be harder with body on replace the one on bracket that bolts to bellhousing also they are only around $7.00

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