57 rear axle bearing questions
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
57 rear axle bearing questions
Hello,
I am in process of replacing rear axle bearings. I finally got the left side out and was surprised that the bearing was in pretty good condition. No rust on bearing or housing....I thought I was told to remove brake lines, emergency brake and 4 flange bolts. Well, it looks like all I needed to remove were the four flange bolts. I guess the hub is part of the axle housing?? Anyway, this is the first time for axle removal and a little confused on how the bearing will go back on once I remove old one. The axle tapers out toward hub and the bearing rides on a ridge which appears to have a groove for the bearing to sit in. If that is the case how is it possible to install new bearing over the ridge and sit in the groove. I know the old bearing may have to be cut out but just don't see how new bearing will slide over the ridge. Anyone have any pictures of axle with and without bearing in place? Confused on something that should be simple to figure out...thanks..
I am in process of replacing rear axle bearings. I finally got the left side out and was surprised that the bearing was in pretty good condition. No rust on bearing or housing....I thought I was told to remove brake lines, emergency brake and 4 flange bolts. Well, it looks like all I needed to remove were the four flange bolts. I guess the hub is part of the axle housing?? Anyway, this is the first time for axle removal and a little confused on how the bearing will go back on once I remove old one. The axle tapers out toward hub and the bearing rides on a ridge which appears to have a groove for the bearing to sit in. If that is the case how is it possible to install new bearing over the ridge and sit in the groove. I know the old bearing may have to be cut out but just don't see how new bearing will slide over the ridge. Anyone have any pictures of axle with and without bearing in place? Confused on something that should be simple to figure out...thanks..
#2
Instructor
Old bearings are pressed off and new ones pressed on by a machine shop with appropriate knowledge and tools. Wouldn't try this at home.
After new ones installed on axles, they should slip right back in with a little lubricant on the new seal(s) into the differential housing.
Larry
After new ones installed on axles, they should slip right back in with a little lubricant on the new seal(s) into the differential housing.
Larry
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Ontario Canada Ontario Canada
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Replaced my axle bearings last year here is a picture of the new one's installed.
I took them into a transmission shop and had them remove the old bearing and lock rings and install the new..
I took them into a transmission shop and had them remove the old bearing and lock rings and install the new..
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2000
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Dave,
The axle bearing is held on by a "press fit" retainer (it essentially is the only thing holding the axle in to the differential). It is not reusable, and must be cut off (die grind a groove close, but not into the axle surface, and then use a cold chisel in the groove to crack it). On top of that, the retainers are not available separately (they are only supplied with a new axle bearing).
Unless you have a hydraulic press, you are not going to be reinstalling the bearing and retainer. Best to find a auto machine shop for that replacement. They can also remove the old retainer and bearing, if need be).
You are correct that you do not need to remove the brake backing plate (and brake line) to remove and replace an axle.
Plasticman
The axle bearing is held on by a "press fit" retainer (it essentially is the only thing holding the axle in to the differential). It is not reusable, and must be cut off (die grind a groove close, but not into the axle surface, and then use a cold chisel in the groove to crack it). On top of that, the retainers are not available separately (they are only supplied with a new axle bearing).
Unless you have a hydraulic press, you are not going to be reinstalling the bearing and retainer. Best to find a auto machine shop for that replacement. They can also remove the old retainer and bearing, if need be).
You are correct that you do not need to remove the brake backing plate (and brake line) to remove and replace an axle.
Plasticman
#5
Race Director
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2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
Just in case you are not aware, and haven't bought your bearings yet, the axle bearings for 57 Vettes (as well as 57 pass cars) is ONE YEAR ONLY------------RW307R.
#6
#9
Race Director
Dave,
The axle bearing is held on by a "press fit" retainer (it essentially is the only thing holding the axle in to the differential). It is not reusable, and must be cut off (die grind a groove close, but not into the axle surface, and then use a cold chisel in the groove to crack it). On top of that, the retainers are not available separately (they are only supplied with a new axle bearing).
Unless you have a hydraulic press, you are not going to be reinstalling the bearing and retainer. Best to find a auto machine shop for that replacement. They can also remove the old retainer and bearing, if need be).
You are correct that you do not need to remove the brake backing plate (and brake line) to remove and replace an axle.
Plasticman
The axle bearing is held on by a "press fit" retainer (it essentially is the only thing holding the axle in to the differential). It is not reusable, and must be cut off (die grind a groove close, but not into the axle surface, and then use a cold chisel in the groove to crack it). On top of that, the retainers are not available separately (they are only supplied with a new axle bearing).
Unless you have a hydraulic press, you are not going to be reinstalling the bearing and retainer. Best to find a auto machine shop for that replacement. They can also remove the old retainer and bearing, if need be).
You are correct that you do not need to remove the brake backing plate (and brake line) to remove and replace an axle.
Plasticman
#10
The hydraulic press is used to push the old bearing and ring off as well as press the new bearing and ring on. No need to use a die grinder on the ring because most any shop with a press will have the two piece tool to slide under the bearing to press it off and the collars to press the new one on.
Yep that's the way I do it in my "shop" - use split bearing plates when I'm removing / installing those 1957 bearings on my Vette axles LOL
Using a die grinder is just asking for trouble - nicking something.
Have never been convinced that the "retaining" rings do much.
I have found enough variation between axle diameters and bearing ID's that had to selectively fit them together with some very thin Loctite to augment the press fit.
#11
Race Director
If you ever use a press yourself to remove the bearing be sure to place a large rag?towel wrapped around the bearing. With the pressure sometimes needed to remove the bearing they have been known to explode in pieces and creating injury
#12