Need a 6 or 7 blade fan blade for ’60 Vette
#1
Need a 6 or 7 blade fan blade for ’60 Vette
I want to replace the 5 blade clutch fan blade on my ’60 with a 6 or 7 blade fan blade. Does anyone know of a source or application or part number for such a blade that will be a direct bolt on replacement?
The reason I want to replace it is because I still have problems running hot at idle or low speed in town traffic, especially during the hot summer days here in southwest Utah. To clarify, I am running hotter (210-215 and sometimes 220) than I think it should and it is not overheating or puking.
Also, I have read every thread on overheating and running hot as well as the articles from John Hinckley and Lars Grimsrud. I have a literal library on cooling system components, timing, distributor curves, and carburetion.
The car (SBC, TH350, 4.11 rear) has had the engine flushed multiple times on two separate occasions, new Dewitt radiator, all new hoses, new thermostats (stove tested), restored heater with new heater valve and heater core, rebuilt OEM water pump, new clutch fan with 5 blade fan, timing and carburetor set and adjusted properly, and front seals around radiator.
The car runs great and now goes down the road at 180-185 at speeds over 30MPH or so. But if I sit at a stop light or pull in and let it idle, it climbs up to the 210-215 mark. So after many, many hours of research and replacing and adjusting, it appears to me that I have an airflow problem at very slow speed or stopped idle. Thus the reason for looking at a 6 or 7 blade fan. My thought is to be able pull more air and get the temp down to 190-195 at idle, or even to 185-190.
My question is the source for a 6 or 7 blade fan, but I provided all of the other information so you know what has been done.
Thanks,
Terry
The reason I want to replace it is because I still have problems running hot at idle or low speed in town traffic, especially during the hot summer days here in southwest Utah. To clarify, I am running hotter (210-215 and sometimes 220) than I think it should and it is not overheating or puking.
Also, I have read every thread on overheating and running hot as well as the articles from John Hinckley and Lars Grimsrud. I have a literal library on cooling system components, timing, distributor curves, and carburetion.
The car (SBC, TH350, 4.11 rear) has had the engine flushed multiple times on two separate occasions, new Dewitt radiator, all new hoses, new thermostats (stove tested), restored heater with new heater valve and heater core, rebuilt OEM water pump, new clutch fan with 5 blade fan, timing and carburetor set and adjusted properly, and front seals around radiator.
The car runs great and now goes down the road at 180-185 at speeds over 30MPH or so. But if I sit at a stop light or pull in and let it idle, it climbs up to the 210-215 mark. So after many, many hours of research and replacing and adjusting, it appears to me that I have an airflow problem at very slow speed or stopped idle. Thus the reason for looking at a 6 or 7 blade fan. My thought is to be able pull more air and get the temp down to 190-195 at idle, or even to 185-190.
My question is the source for a 6 or 7 blade fan, but I provided all of the other information so you know what has been done.
Thanks,
Terry
#2
Melting Slicks
Not all fans are created equal. Some 2 blades probably pull more than some 7 blades.
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#3
I could tell a substantial difference between my old fixed 4 blade and the new 5 blade clutch. I'm expecting, and hoping, a similar pitch with an extra blade or 2 will give me a little more CFM to drop that idle temp 5-10 degrees!
PM replied to!
Thanks,
Terry
#4
Le Mans Master
Terry,
What is the ambient temperature when you're sitting at idle as the engine heats to 210?? Have you checked the engine temp with an IR gun to be sure of the gauge reading?? Idling at 210 degrees is certainly not going to hurt your engine but I understand the inclination to want to get your car to run cooler. Again, depending on the ambient...idle temp of 210 may be just about ideal.
What is the ambient temperature when you're sitting at idle as the engine heats to 210?? Have you checked the engine temp with an IR gun to be sure of the gauge reading?? Idling at 210 degrees is certainly not going to hurt your engine but I understand the inclination to want to get your car to run cooler. Again, depending on the ambient...idle temp of 210 may be just about ideal.
#5
Leif,
I knew I forgot to include something in my writeup!
Since I got the car out to Utah in late June, ambient temps are 95-105 during the day and 75-80 at night. The car never has liked hot daytime temps, even back in Iowa.
The latest work on the cooling system was done this past week when daytime temps were 93-99, noting that sitting in the sun (no shade by the garage) it was probably a bit hotter and then driving through town it could be 125-140 off the pavement. So, yes, it is pretty hot and is not unheard of for any car to run hotter than normal. But I'm running alongside my brother's '57 Nomad and he's running normal steady temps.
The temps I quoted are from both the gauge and the IR gun. Believe it or not, my gauge is amazingly accurate . I certainly realize 210 is really not harmful to the engine, but my brother (who I would consider a SBC Gen 1 specialist) says he has never had a SBC act this particular way, i.e., that hot at idle, especially noting the massive $$$ I have invested in the cooling system.
We have basically concluded that this particular engine just runs a bit hotter at idle and my brother said to quit looking at the &$#!^ gauge when I'm at a stoplight!
But I would like to try one last thing with a different fan blade to bring it down 5-10 degrees at idle if at all possible.
Terry
I knew I forgot to include something in my writeup!
Since I got the car out to Utah in late June, ambient temps are 95-105 during the day and 75-80 at night. The car never has liked hot daytime temps, even back in Iowa.
The latest work on the cooling system was done this past week when daytime temps were 93-99, noting that sitting in the sun (no shade by the garage) it was probably a bit hotter and then driving through town it could be 125-140 off the pavement. So, yes, it is pretty hot and is not unheard of for any car to run hotter than normal. But I'm running alongside my brother's '57 Nomad and he's running normal steady temps.
The temps I quoted are from both the gauge and the IR gun. Believe it or not, my gauge is amazingly accurate . I certainly realize 210 is really not harmful to the engine, but my brother (who I would consider a SBC Gen 1 specialist) says he has never had a SBC act this particular way, i.e., that hot at idle, especially noting the massive $$$ I have invested in the cooling system.
We have basically concluded that this particular engine just runs a bit hotter at idle and my brother said to quit looking at the &$#!^ gauge when I'm at a stoplight!
But I would like to try one last thing with a different fan blade to bring it down 5-10 degrees at idle if at all possible.
Terry
#6
Melting Slicks
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Have you checked the fan clutch?
Run the engine and have someone turn off the engine.
The fan should stop quickly, if it slowly spins to a stop the fan clutch is probably shot which will cause poor cooling.
They can be rebuilt or just don't use it with the fan.
Run the engine and have someone turn off the engine.
The fan should stop quickly, if it slowly spins to a stop the fan clutch is probably shot which will cause poor cooling.
They can be rebuilt or just don't use it with the fan.
#7
Drifting
What is the bore on the engine?? Thin cylinder bores will super heat the engine. With all the cooling parts you have, running hot is not expected. The bore on my black car sbc is 4.25" with a Dart block. That is really pushing it.
My car has about double the stock HP. HP equals heat. When I first installed that engine, New Dewitts, Better water pump, sealed core, better than GM, It ran hot at an idle after running it. 220 with a heat gun. I installed a Hayden 2747 clutch and 772 7 blade fan and it ran 20* colder after running it before shut down and 30* at the track.
Hayden clutch at Summit, about $50. 772 fan on Ebay, $75-$300 depending on the date stamped on each blade. These fans were on all the late 60s and early 70s high performance cars from 302s to 454s. They also could be found on light trucks and who knows what else in the 70s. If the dates are for rare muscle cars, the price will be high, If the dates are after that period, a lot less.
These fans are 17". You may have to modify the shroud. In my car, I had to spread the lower shroud halves. (but my engine is lowered ) In another car I work on, no modifications were necessary.
If this does not work, you have some major problem some where else. Jim
My car has about double the stock HP. HP equals heat. When I first installed that engine, New Dewitts, Better water pump, sealed core, better than GM, It ran hot at an idle after running it. 220 with a heat gun. I installed a Hayden 2747 clutch and 772 7 blade fan and it ran 20* colder after running it before shut down and 30* at the track.
Hayden clutch at Summit, about $50. 772 fan on Ebay, $75-$300 depending on the date stamped on each blade. These fans were on all the late 60s and early 70s high performance cars from 302s to 454s. They also could be found on light trucks and who knows what else in the 70s. If the dates are for rare muscle cars, the price will be high, If the dates are after that period, a lot less.
These fans are 17". You may have to modify the shroud. In my car, I had to spread the lower shroud halves. (but my engine is lowered ) In another car I work on, no modifications were necessary.
If this does not work, you have some major problem some where else. Jim
#8
Melting Slicks
Leif,
I knew I forgot to include something in my writeup!
Since I got the car out to Utah in late June, ambient temps are 95-105 during the day and 75-80 at night. The car never has liked hot daytime temps, even back in Iowa.
The latest work on the cooling system was done this past week when daytime temps were 93-99, noting that sitting in the sun (no shade by the garage) it was probably a bit hotter and then driving through town it could be 125-140 off the pavement. So, yes, it is pretty hot and is not unheard of for any car to run hotter than normal. But I'm running alongside my brother's '57 Nomad and he's running normal steady temps.
The temps I quoted are from both the gauge and the IR gun. Believe it or not, my gauge is amazingly accurate . I certainly realize 210 is really not harmful to the engine, but my brother (who I would consider a SBC Gen 1 specialist) says he has never had a SBC act this particular way, i.e., that hot at idle, especially noting the massive $$$ I have invested in the cooling system.
We have basically concluded that this particular engine just runs a bit hotter at idle and my brother said to quit looking at the &$#!^ gauge when I'm at a stoplight!
But I would like to try one last thing with a different fan blade to bring it down 5-10 degrees at idle if at all possible.
Terry
I knew I forgot to include something in my writeup!
Since I got the car out to Utah in late June, ambient temps are 95-105 during the day and 75-80 at night. The car never has liked hot daytime temps, even back in Iowa.
The latest work on the cooling system was done this past week when daytime temps were 93-99, noting that sitting in the sun (no shade by the garage) it was probably a bit hotter and then driving through town it could be 125-140 off the pavement. So, yes, it is pretty hot and is not unheard of for any car to run hotter than normal. But I'm running alongside my brother's '57 Nomad and he's running normal steady temps.
The temps I quoted are from both the gauge and the IR gun. Believe it or not, my gauge is amazingly accurate . I certainly realize 210 is really not harmful to the engine, but my brother (who I would consider a SBC Gen 1 specialist) says he has never had a SBC act this particular way, i.e., that hot at idle, especially noting the massive $$$ I have invested in the cooling system.
We have basically concluded that this particular engine just runs a bit hotter at idle and my brother said to quit looking at the &$#!^ gauge when I'm at a stoplight!
But I would like to try one last thing with a different fan blade to bring it down 5-10 degrees at idle if at all possible.
Terry
Last edited by Gary's '66; 08-23-2014 at 12:36 AM.
#9
Ohiovet: Yes, we've checked the fan clutch. It is brand new (from Keen), but it has been double checked for proper operation.
Vetrod62: Engine is original standard bore. I looked at the 772 blade but it's 18" and I had hoped to find a similar 17" blade so I didn't have to either replace the new clutch or do major modifications to the shroud. I read a very technical article from a fan manufacturer that fan blades should be approximately 1" less diameter than the shroud to maximize the efficiency of the fan.
Gary's66: Yes, robbing HP is a concern because it has an anemic 307 from a 73 Camaro (I got the car that way) so I have to be balance this cooling setup with the HP it takes to drive it.
I believe my new clutch is a Hayden 2711 IIRC. I would think that going from a 5 blade to 6 blade shouldn't rob much more HP.
Thanks for the help guys!
Terry
Vetrod62: Engine is original standard bore. I looked at the 772 blade but it's 18" and I had hoped to find a similar 17" blade so I didn't have to either replace the new clutch or do major modifications to the shroud. I read a very technical article from a fan manufacturer that fan blades should be approximately 1" less diameter than the shroud to maximize the efficiency of the fan.
Gary's66: Yes, robbing HP is a concern because it has an anemic 307 from a 73 Camaro (I got the car that way) so I have to be balance this cooling setup with the HP it takes to drive it.
I believe my new clutch is a Hayden 2711 IIRC. I would think that going from a 5 blade to 6 blade shouldn't rob much more HP.
Thanks for the help guys!
Terry