37A Alternator OK with Factory A/C?
#1
Melting Slicks
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37A Alternator OK with Factory A/C?
If the housing markings (1100693 37A) on the rebuilt alternator (1100693 37A) installed well over 20 years ago on my '67 327/300 with A/C are consistent with what's inside, I've been limping along with about 2/3 of the alternator capacity I should have. Other than the lights being a little dim and dash ammeter showing a slight discharge when idling with lights and fan or fan and A/C on, I've not noticed any problem. Things seem fine as soon as I come up off idle. I haven't had battery troubles--put in 2 or three since acquiring the car in late 1984. Is there some subtle ill effect about which I should be worried? I'll upgrade if this one ever quits or if I add anything that takes significant power (like EFI....).
If I've been getting along just fine with the 37-amp alternator, why did the factory specify at least a 55-amp alternator for A/C cars? Would it have been more critical in a harsher climate? I'm in the SF Bay area, so no cold weather concerns, if that's relevant.
If I've been getting along just fine with the 37-amp alternator, why did the factory specify at least a 55-amp alternator for A/C cars? Would it have been more critical in a harsher climate? I'm in the SF Bay area, so no cold weather concerns, if that's relevant.
#2
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I would say, "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
37A was the norm back in the day and if it had A/C there was either 55A or 61-63A units installed. I would assume it was better at idle with all the accessories on.
But if you have no issues then I would worry about it when you do have one.
Joe
37A was the norm back in the day and if it had A/C there was either 55A or 61-63A units installed. I would assume it was better at idle with all the accessories on.
But if you have no issues then I would worry about it when you do have one.
Joe
#3
When you do have a problem have the rebuilder put in a 63 amp rotor and stator and you will have the higher amp alt in the 37 amp case. All other parts in the alt are the same.
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The cases are the same for the different amperage, only the internal rotor and stator differ, and you cannot tell the difference.
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Its important because two things kill batteries, heat and failure to keep fully charged.
Too small an alternator will not top off a battery after a discharge event, like a long crank cycle if it is then driven with the electrical system load exceeding alternator output and/or a short trip. So the risk is that the battery remains partially discharged at all times and has a shortened life.
If however you have gotten by with 3 batteries since 1984 I'd say leave things alone.
Dan
Too small an alternator will not top off a battery after a discharge event, like a long crank cycle if it is then driven with the electrical system load exceeding alternator output and/or a short trip. So the risk is that the battery remains partially discharged at all times and has a shortened life.
If however you have gotten by with 3 batteries since 1984 I'd say leave things alone.
Dan
#7
Melting Slicks
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Thanks to all who responded!
Lots of good info from you folks. It's much appreciated. I'm not going to mess with it unless the 37-Amp unit fails or I add a significant load, but now I know what I'd do and why.
Last edited by SI67; 08-31-2014 at 03:27 PM.
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I would probably do the same - wait until the alternator failed or battery died (prematurely) before I did anything.