Battery drain
08-30-2014, 07:53 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Battery drain
Would there be any advice where to start ? Battery drained to the point engine wouldn't turn over after two weeks. New battery. Looks like my battery tender broke down as well.
My emergency brake when on the light flashes ? Only other is a quartz clock. The left turn signal light seems brighter than the others maybe a ground issue? Thanks for any starting point wiring isn't my strong point but willing to learn.
My emergency brake when on the light flashes ? Only other is a quartz clock. The left turn signal light seems brighter than the others maybe a ground issue? Thanks for any starting point wiring isn't my strong point but willing to learn.
08-30-2014, 08:01 AM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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The parking light flasher should only work with the key on.
08-30-2014, 08:27 AM
#4
Team Owner
You could have a weak battery that won't hold a charge. I'd have it load tested at an auto parts store.
If you have a 64 as your name implies:
Here are some things that get power with the ignition off.
Clock (properly working quartz shouldn't run battery down)
Cig lighter
Glove box light
Brake lights
Headlight switch
Courtesy lights
Power Windows
Alternator
I would go about it in this way. Look at your car in the dark. Verify that the courtesy lights are going off with the door closed. Verify that the glove box light isn't staying on.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect an ammeter between the cable and the battery post. If you don't have access to an ammeter, you can buy one at Harbor Freight for 10 bucks, or they have a coupon for a free one right now. You can also connect a test light instead, but you'll have to judge current draw by the brightness of the light. The clock will draw a little Then, I'd disconnect the alternator and see if the draw goes away. If so, you could have a leaky diode in the bridge circuit of the alternator (fairly common). If you still have too much draw, I'd start pulling fuses and see when it goes away. Most of the fuses work through the ignition, so unless you're leaving the ignition on or in acc those circuits won't cause what you have. The bottom fuse is for the brake lights and courtesy lights and has power all the time.
The three most likely cause in your case of taking 2 weeks:
1. Weak battery
2. Light staying on (glove box, courtesy, etc)
3. Defective diode in alternator
If you have a 64 as your name implies:
Here are some things that get power with the ignition off.
Clock (properly working quartz shouldn't run battery down)
Cig lighter
Glove box light
Brake lights
Headlight switch
Courtesy lights
Power Windows
Alternator
I would go about it in this way. Look at your car in the dark. Verify that the courtesy lights are going off with the door closed. Verify that the glove box light isn't staying on.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect an ammeter between the cable and the battery post. If you don't have access to an ammeter, you can buy one at Harbor Freight for 10 bucks, or they have a coupon for a free one right now. You can also connect a test light instead, but you'll have to judge current draw by the brightness of the light. The clock will draw a little Then, I'd disconnect the alternator and see if the draw goes away. If so, you could have a leaky diode in the bridge circuit of the alternator (fairly common). If you still have too much draw, I'd start pulling fuses and see when it goes away. Most of the fuses work through the ignition, so unless you're leaving the ignition on or in acc those circuits won't cause what you have. The bottom fuse is for the brake lights and courtesy lights and has power all the time.
The three most likely cause in your case of taking 2 weeks:
1. Weak battery
2. Light staying on (glove box, courtesy, etc)
3. Defective diode in alternator
08-30-2014, 08:56 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
I found that an after market radio memory plus the original clock would run the battery down in a few weeks on my '64. I now keep battery disconnected.
08-30-2014, 09:33 AM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
You could have a weak battery that won't hold a charge. I'd have it load tested at an auto parts store.
If you have a 64 as your name implies:
Here are some things that get power with the ignition off.
Clock (properly working quartz shouldn't run battery down)
Cig lighter
Glove box light
Brake lights
Headlight switchgh
Courtesy lights
Power Windows
Alternator
I would go about it in this way. Look at your car in the dark. Verify that the courtesy lights are going off with the door closed. Verify that the glove box light isn't staying on.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect an ammeter between the cable and the battery post. If you don't have access to an ammeter, you can buy one at Harbor Freight for 10 bucks, or they have a coupon for a free one right now. You can also connect a test light instead, but you'll have to judge current draw by the brightness of the light. The clock will draw a little Then, I'd disconnect the alternator and see if the draw goes away. If so, you could have a leaky diode in the bridge circuit of the alternator (fairly common). If you still have too much draw, I'd start pulling fuses and see when it goes away. Most of the fuses work through the ignition, so unless you're leaving the ignition on or in acc those circuits won't cause what you have. The bottom fuse is for the brake lights and courtesy lights and has power all the time.
The three most likely cause in your case of taking 2 weeks:
1. Weak battery
2. Light staying on (glove box, courtesy, etc)
3. Defective diode in alternator
If you have a 64 as your name implies:
Here are some things that get power with the ignition off.
Clock (properly working quartz shouldn't run battery down)
Cig lighter
Glove box light
Brake lights
Headlight switchgh
Courtesy lights
Power Windows
Alternator
I would go about it in this way. Look at your car in the dark. Verify that the courtesy lights are going off with the door closed. Verify that the glove box light isn't staying on.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect an ammeter between the cable and the battery post. If you don't have access to an ammeter, you can buy one at Harbor Freight for 10 bucks, or they have a coupon for a free one right now. You can also connect a test light instead, but you'll have to judge current draw by the brightness of the light. The clock will draw a little Then, I'd disconnect the alternator and see if the draw goes away. If so, you could have a leaky diode in the bridge circuit of the alternator (fairly common). If you still have too much draw, I'd start pulling fuses and see when it goes away. Most of the fuses work through the ignition, so unless you're leaving the ignition on or in acc those circuits won't cause what you have. The bottom fuse is for the brake lights and courtesy lights and has power all the time.
The three most likely cause in your case of taking 2 weeks:
1. Weak battery
2. Light staying on (glove box, courtesy, etc)
3. Defective diode in alternator
Will check position of key as it moves . Thanks
6
08-30-2014, 09:43 AM
#7
Team Owner
Did the battery drain start with the new alternator? Did you change the alternator because the battery wasn't charging? Have you load tested the battery?
08-30-2014, 10:24 AM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Large electric fan.
Charges great battery was load tested ok. This has been an on going problem. I did change the frame when I did a body off 3 years ago.
09-02-2014, 02:04 PM
#10
Team Owner
Loosen the two Phillips screws in the catch at the top of the glove box liner and move it slightly toward the front of the car. If you move too far, the lid won't stay up, or will fall when you hit a bump.