jusplainwacky

When I decided to rebuild my steering box, I didn't have a clue what was involved, much less what it looked like inside.

If you're like me, and not only want to save a buck, but also learn by doing, then allow me to share with you how I removed my bearings and racers from the steering box/column using some very simple tools.

The first thing I did was search the forum and bug Rich for guidance. I also searched online and I found 3 videos on YouTube that shows a step by step process that is really helpful. If you click on the link below, you will see PART 1...you can find parts 2, and 3 on the right.

After you get your steering box apart, the trick is how to remove the bearings and racers without having a full blown machine shop...and I'm hoping this POST will allow you to do just that!

End Adjuster Cap (with big nut) bearing and racer removal

To do this, I used a simple puller, but I extended the center shaft by using a socket and extension - Credit goes to Rich, as I got this idea from him. In the picture below, the race is already removed so you can see that there are some recessed areas for the puller arms to grab the race.





The next thing to remove is the race/bearing in the side cap (Lash Adjustment)

You will notice that a 1/4" plate with a small hole is used to do this. The small hole allowed me to move the spacer around once I dropped it inside the housing. Notice that the plate has radius edges...they are to contour to the housing. I would not recommend that you put a hole in the plate for the bolt to sit in. I would recommend that you let it "float" and "self adjust" inside the housing.
Once you have the plate inside the housing, take a long bolt and screw it into the lash adjustment - this is FINE thread!!! Slowly tighten the bolt and align the plate so you are centered under the bearing. Take a socket and tight the bolt putting pressure on the plate, which will push out the bearing...you shouldn't have to use much force.





Removing the upper race inside the steering box

Using the setup in the picture below, you basically use the same concept of using the plate to pull the race out. But there are some tricks in making this.

I used 1/4 x 20 stock, which is plenty strong to pull the race out. The trick is that you need to "angle in" the plate into the race, because it's length is longer than the inside diameter of the race itself. Once you angle it in, you can then pull up on the bolt and it will seat up under the race. You can get your fingers in there to adjust though the hole for the side cover.
When you drill the hole in this plate for the bolt, make it bigger than the bolt itself so the plate can "wobble/tilt" on the bolt.
You will need a piece of steel stock for the top as shown. Assemble your new tool as shown...and you can always add a washer on the bottom if you made your hole too big. You want it sloppy so that it "self adjusts". While holding the plate tight against the race, start to tighten up the NUT (not the bolt) and this will lift the race right out!





To remove the roller bearing for the sector shaft, I just used a 1" socket with an extension and pounded it out.

You're done! Now the trick is to getting them back in! Which I have never done and I'll post more on that.

Plasticman

Dennis,

Well done and THANKS!

John (Plasticman)

jusplainwacky

Thanks John...I hope it's clear. If anyone isn't clear on anything, let me know and I'll revise. Here is the socket I used to pound out the sector shaft roller bearing. And other various pictures.

jusplainwacky

It was suggested that I make this a "sticky"....I'm don't know what is involved in doing that. I also had this request for my write up on "Brain dump on restoring my hardtop"

rich5962

Dennis, Great ideas......and you gave me some credit but you did it all just fine yourself. I love that inner box race puller idea. I had to fight with my home-made multi pullers and various gadgets to get that out on the last one I did. It was seized pretty good and your puller tool would have been perfect. The blind bearing puller sets are very costly, and when these are done over long periods of time it can save much cost.

Well done!

Maybe send DZVette(Dave Zeuberer) a PM I bet he'd do a PDF file of it for you when he gets a chance, and we can save it away for future reference.

Rich

GCD1962

I made a similar egg shape plate for the upper race. I angled it in and then from the top of the steering tube I ramed down a large rod (actually the old shaft) and the race came out.