'67 Won't Crank
09-16-2014, 04:28 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
'67 Won't Crank
Hey folks. A long-time reader, I finally pulled the trigger and bought my first Corvette. It’s a 1967 Marina Blue/Bright Blue/white top convertible.
In getting to know my car, I did a compression test. After putting all the plugs back in I tried to start the car. It would not crank and no electrical devices seemed to work. The car cranked fine during the compression test. I jumped the battery and still nothing. I removed the battery and had it charged, but still nothing. The battery terminal connections are good. Based on info from the forum I checked a few wires and tried to start the car several times afterwards. On one occasion the interior lights came on when I opened the door. On another occasion the fan and radio worked, but then quit working. Occasionally I could hear a click that sounded like the starter trying to engage. Possibly relevant is that when installing the #6 spark plug it fell and lodged near the starter solenoid terminals and the shield. Any suggestions on what the problem might be?
In getting to know my car, I did a compression test. After putting all the plugs back in I tried to start the car. It would not crank and no electrical devices seemed to work. The car cranked fine during the compression test. I jumped the battery and still nothing. I removed the battery and had it charged, but still nothing. The battery terminal connections are good. Based on info from the forum I checked a few wires and tried to start the car several times afterwards. On one occasion the interior lights came on when I opened the door. On another occasion the fan and radio worked, but then quit working. Occasionally I could hear a click that sounded like the starter trying to engage. Possibly relevant is that when installing the #6 spark plug it fell and lodged near the starter solenoid terminals and the shield. Any suggestions on what the problem might be?
09-16-2014, 04:40 PM
#2
1st Gear
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Covervette
Hy my,
i am an active corvette General Auto technician in Corvette service centre,(Ashburn, Virginia) to my best of knowledge and experience it may probably be the electrical circuit or brainbox issue, PM me at alanpeevler@gmail.com for retification and solution
Alan.
i am an active corvette General Auto technician in Corvette service centre,(Ashburn, Virginia) to my best of knowledge and experience it may probably be the electrical circuit or brainbox issue, PM me at alanpeevler@gmail.com for retification and solution
Alan.
09-16-2014, 04:50 PM
#3
Race Director
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There is NO brain box in a '67 Vette. Our more experienced CF Vette electricians should be on this very soon. Very nice '67! 
Dennis
Dennis
09-16-2014, 04:53 PM
#4
Race Director
Unless you have a resto-rod with an LS engine , there is no brainbox on this car. 
Sounds to me that you may have disturbed one or both of the electrical firewall connector plugs (under the master cylinder), or that #6 spark plug shorted something out and burned a fusible link.
1. What is the battery voltage now?? What does this voltage do when you attempt to start the car (does voltage go up, or down, or stay the same.
2. What is the voltage at the starter solenoid + terminal.?? What is the voltage at the solenoid "S" terminal when you (or helper) attempt to start the car.?? You should see 12 volts at the solenoid on both these connections when attempting to start the car.
3. Also check the firewall connectors to see if they are loose or partially disconnected from the main firewall electrical plug.
This just provides a few basic checks. Based on the info back from you, we can then move on to other checks/areas.
Larry
Sounds to me that you may have disturbed one or both of the electrical firewall connector plugs (under the master cylinder), or that #6 spark plug shorted something out and burned a fusible link.
1. What is the battery voltage now?? What does this voltage do when you attempt to start the car (does voltage go up, or down, or stay the same.
2. What is the voltage at the starter solenoid + terminal.?? What is the voltage at the solenoid "S" terminal when you (or helper) attempt to start the car.?? You should see 12 volts at the solenoid on both these connections when attempting to start the car.
3. Also check the firewall connectors to see if they are loose or partially disconnected from the main firewall electrical plug.
This just provides a few basic checks. Based on the info back from you, we can then move on to other checks/areas.
Larry
09-16-2014, 04:57 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Cranking
First things first, that is a beautiful car with a great color combination. Next, if you have a fully charged battery, the easiest and quickest area to check is the large red wire as it comes through the firewall. Pull the connection apart and clean up the contacts and reconnect. Give it a try and report back. As for checking the brainbox, these cars are too smart to have a brain. Jerry
09-16-2014, 05:25 PM
#7
Racer
May be simple...
Clean up your battery connections and retighten. For me, it was that simple when my car exhibited similar symptoms. Hope it that easy in your case.
09-16-2014, 05:29 PM
#8
Team Owner
First things first, that is a beautiful car with a great color combination. Next, if you have a fully charged battery, the easiest and quickest area to check is the large red wire as it comes through the firewall. Pull the connection apart and clean up the contacts and reconnect. Give it a try and report back. As for checking the brainbox, these cars are too smart to have a brain. Jerry
It is indeed a gorgeous car.
09-16-2014, 05:48 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
BEAUTIFUL CAR!!!!! Did you find and remove that spark plug that you dropped down by the starter/solenoid or is it still wedged in there?? As stated in an earlier post, it may have shorted out a fusible link, actually quite possible. You will become very familiar with the engine harness/fuse box connector on your firewall under the master cylinder...an area for many electrical gremlins.
09-16-2014, 05:55 PM
#11
Race Director
Sounds like the firewall connector but by all means get that spark plug out if you haven't already. There is some pretty high amp current running to the starter and you don't want any fireworks going on down there.
09-16-2014, 07:38 PM
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I did remove the spark plug from where it fell. I don't know if it touched the terminals or not, but the car was fine before I put the plugs in and dead afterwards. Thinking back on it, at first I could not find the plug so I put in the rest of the even cylinder plugs and went to the odds. When I was putting in the #3 plug my socket touched the spark plug shield bracket and I saw a spark. I thought that was strange, but not knowing electrical systems I moved on. At that time the plug was still lodged at the starter.
I have 12+ volts coming out of the battery. I have not checked voltage at the starter solenoid. None of the gauges react when I turn the ignition switch. I have looked at some of the connections, but have not pulled them apart and cleaned them. Does the connector coming through the firewall simply pull apart or is there and unlocking trick needed?
Tell me more about a possible fuse problem.
09-16-2014, 08:58 PM
#13
Race Director
At the starter solenoid + connection, in addition to the battery cable there are two (2) fusible link wires that also attach to this connection. One is orange and the other is brown. The orange one is for the dash ammeter, and the heavier brown one is from the alternator, and is also supplies essentially all power to the rest of the car.
A fusible link is a special wire that is thinner in diameter than the regular circuit wiring and is covered with a heat resistant (fire proof) insulation. It acts like a fuse. It is intended to burn thru before anything else due to an overload or short circuit, and prevent an engine compartment fire or major wiring damage. If burned (destroyed) the wire insulation is wrinkled up but the wire itself still appears intact. It is not. They can easily be replaced by buying a new fusible link replacement of the correct size wire and then soldering it into the car's wiring circuit.
I am wondering if you cut thru a hot wire insulation somewhere when working under the hood, or if the dropped spark plug shorted something out, since you should not get a spark by grounding something to the spark plug shielding……..unless the shielding itself became hot (energized).
I think your first checks should be at the starter solenoid. See my earlier suggestions, in addition to what I just posted.
The removable electrical connector blocks (2) that we also mentioned are each held to the main firewall connector blocks by two small plastic prongs. They are easy to remove by squeezing these prongs together, and then gently pulling on the removable connector. They often come off just by themselves, and are always the first place to check if you have an electrical issue. Just be sure that the wires are warm and not cold or brittle when pulling on them. No use creating more problems.
Larry
A fusible link is a special wire that is thinner in diameter than the regular circuit wiring and is covered with a heat resistant (fire proof) insulation. It acts like a fuse. It is intended to burn thru before anything else due to an overload or short circuit, and prevent an engine compartment fire or major wiring damage. If burned (destroyed) the wire insulation is wrinkled up but the wire itself still appears intact. It is not. They can easily be replaced by buying a new fusible link replacement of the correct size wire and then soldering it into the car's wiring circuit.
I am wondering if you cut thru a hot wire insulation somewhere when working under the hood, or if the dropped spark plug shorted something out, since you should not get a spark by grounding something to the spark plug shielding……..unless the shielding itself became hot (energized).
I think your first checks should be at the starter solenoid. See my earlier suggestions, in addition to what I just posted.
The removable electrical connector blocks (2) that we also mentioned are each held to the main firewall connector blocks by two small plastic prongs. They are easy to remove by squeezing these prongs together, and then gently pulling on the removable connector. They often come off just by themselves, and are always the first place to check if you have an electrical issue. Just be sure that the wires are warm and not cold or brittle when pulling on them. No use creating more problems.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; 09-16-2014 at 09:01 PM.
09-16-2014, 09:12 PM
#14
Intermediate
Thread Starter
At the starter solenoid + connection, in addition to the battery cable there are two (2) fusible link wires that also attach to this connection. One is orange and the other is brown. The orange one is for the dash ammeter, and the heavier brown one is from the alternator, and is also supplies essentially all power to the rest of the car.
A fusible link is a special wire that is thinner in diameter than the regular circuit wiring and is covered with a heat resistant (fire proof) insulation. It acts like a fuse. It is intended to burn thru before anything else due to an overload or short circuit, and prevent an engine compartment fire or major wiring damage. If burned (destroyed) the wire insulation is wrinkled up but the wire itself still appears intact. It is not. They can easily be replaced by buying a new fusible link replacement of the correct size wire and then soldering it into the car's wiring circuit.
I am wondering if you cut thru a hot wire insulation somewhere when working under the hood, or if the dropped spark plug shorted something out, since you should not get a spark by grounding something to the spark plug shielding……..unless the shielding itself became hot (energized).
I think your first checks should be at the starter solenoid. See my earlier suggestions, in addition to what I just posted.
The removable electrical connector blocks (2) that we also mentioned are each held to the main firewall connector blocks by two small plastic prongs. They are easy to remove by squeezing these prongs together, and then gently pulling on the removable connector. They often come off just by themselves, and are always the first place to check if you have an electrical issue. Just be sure that the wires are warm and not cold or brittle when pulling on them. No use creating more problems.
Larry
A fusible link is a special wire that is thinner in diameter than the regular circuit wiring and is covered with a heat resistant (fire proof) insulation. It acts like a fuse. It is intended to burn thru before anything else due to an overload or short circuit, and prevent an engine compartment fire or major wiring damage. If burned (destroyed) the wire insulation is wrinkled up but the wire itself still appears intact. It is not. They can easily be replaced by buying a new fusible link replacement of the correct size wire and then soldering it into the car's wiring circuit.
I am wondering if you cut thru a hot wire insulation somewhere when working under the hood, or if the dropped spark plug shorted something out, since you should not get a spark by grounding something to the spark plug shielding……..unless the shielding itself became hot (energized).
I think your first checks should be at the starter solenoid. See my earlier suggestions, in addition to what I just posted.
The removable electrical connector blocks (2) that we also mentioned are each held to the main firewall connector blocks by two small plastic prongs. They are easy to remove by squeezing these prongs together, and then gently pulling on the removable connector. They often come off just by themselves, and are always the first place to check if you have an electrical issue. Just be sure that the wires are warm and not cold or brittle when pulling on them. No use creating more problems.
Larry
09-18-2014, 08:25 PM
#15
Intermediate
Thread Starter
At the starter solenoid + connection, in addition to the battery cable there are two (2) fusible link wires that also attach to this connection. One is orange and the other is brown. The orange one is for the dash ammeter, and the heavier brown one is from the alternator, and is also supplies essentially all power to the rest of the car.
A fusible link is a special wire that is thinner in diameter than the regular circuit wiring and is covered with a heat resistant (fire proof) insulation. It acts like a fuse. It is intended to burn thru before anything else due to an overload or short circuit, and prevent an engine compartment fire or major wiring damage. If burned (destroyed) the wire insulation is wrinkled up but the wire itself still appears intact. It is not. They can easily be replaced by buying a new fusible link replacement of the correct size wire and then soldering it into the car's wiring circuit.
I am wondering if you cut thru a hot wire insulation somewhere when working under the hood, or if the dropped spark plug shorted something out, since you should not get a spark by grounding something to the spark plug shielding……..unless the shielding itself became hot (energized).
I think your first checks should be at the starter solenoid. See my earlier suggestions, in addition to what I just posted.
The removable electrical connector blocks (2) that we also mentioned are each held to the main firewall connector blocks by two small plastic prongs. They are easy to remove by squeezing these prongs together, and then gently pulling on the removable connector. They often come off just by themselves, and are always the first place to check if you have an electrical issue. Just be sure that the wires are warm and not cold or brittle when pulling on them. No use creating more problems.
Larry
A fusible link is a special wire that is thinner in diameter than the regular circuit wiring and is covered with a heat resistant (fire proof) insulation. It acts like a fuse. It is intended to burn thru before anything else due to an overload or short circuit, and prevent an engine compartment fire or major wiring damage. If burned (destroyed) the wire insulation is wrinkled up but the wire itself still appears intact. It is not. They can easily be replaced by buying a new fusible link replacement of the correct size wire and then soldering it into the car's wiring circuit.
I am wondering if you cut thru a hot wire insulation somewhere when working under the hood, or if the dropped spark plug shorted something out, since you should not get a spark by grounding something to the spark plug shielding……..unless the shielding itself became hot (energized).
I think your first checks should be at the starter solenoid. See my earlier suggestions, in addition to what I just posted.
The removable electrical connector blocks (2) that we also mentioned are each held to the main firewall connector blocks by two small plastic prongs. They are easy to remove by squeezing these prongs together, and then gently pulling on the removable connector. They often come off just by themselves, and are always the first place to check if you have an electrical issue. Just be sure that the wires are warm and not cold or brittle when pulling on them. No use creating more problems.
Larry
Are these the firewall connections that I need to check? I could not see any locks to depress. Do these just pull apart?
09-18-2014, 08:28 PM
#16
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That last picture is your back up light connector
09-18-2014, 08:38 PM
#17
Intermediate
Thread Starter
09-18-2014, 08:38 PM
#18
Drifting
Firewall Connector
The firewall connector is under the brake master cylinder, or if you have power brakes it is under the brake booster. It has at least 20 or more wires going into it.
RON
09-18-2014, 09:08 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
09-18-2014, 09:11 PM
#20
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That's the one