Help no oil pressure !
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok here is what happened, with the new oil pan from summit the baffling was not the same as the stock pan, it hit the pick up on the pump and rotated it out of the oil leaving it above the baffle. After getting a new pump and pick up I ended up using the stock pan after straitening the rails and all seems good to go. A few things I learned, both from my mistakes and the parts suppliers mistakes were as follows :
As John Z and others have stated no matter what the supplier says measure the oil pan to figure out what gasket to use, Summit insisted that their pan used the thin gasket and it actually uses the thick one as it measures 2 3/8 inches ( if I remember that correctly ) from rail to front seal area, I had used what Summit recommended which was the thin gasket so if I had oil pressure it would have leaked in a short amount of time.
I replaced the pump and pick up as the past installer had attempted to weld the pump and pick up together, with that and the press fit between the two parts was no longer enough to be sure it would not fall off or rotate in the future, so I replaced both parts.
Another thing I had happen was I went to get the pump and asked for a Melling M55 but the box contained an M155, after looking at the Melling info the parts store assured me they were the same, for the most part they are, they look and fit exactly the same the only difference I could find was the port for the pick up was much larger, and it would require a different pick up, so I had to return it for the correct one. There are also at least 2 pick ups that are available, only one will fit the stock pan, the Summit pan required the other pick up.
I am now back together, started with a full filter canister of oil, primed the oil system, hit the key and all is well !
Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.
Jim
As John Z and others have stated no matter what the supplier says measure the oil pan to figure out what gasket to use, Summit insisted that their pan used the thin gasket and it actually uses the thick one as it measures 2 3/8 inches ( if I remember that correctly ) from rail to front seal area, I had used what Summit recommended which was the thin gasket so if I had oil pressure it would have leaked in a short amount of time.
I replaced the pump and pick up as the past installer had attempted to weld the pump and pick up together, with that and the press fit between the two parts was no longer enough to be sure it would not fall off or rotate in the future, so I replaced both parts.
Another thing I had happen was I went to get the pump and asked for a Melling M55 but the box contained an M155, after looking at the Melling info the parts store assured me they were the same, for the most part they are, they look and fit exactly the same the only difference I could find was the port for the pick up was much larger, and it would require a different pick up, so I had to return it for the correct one. There are also at least 2 pick ups that are available, only one will fit the stock pan, the Summit pan required the other pick up.
I am now back together, started with a full filter canister of oil, primed the oil system, hit the key and all is well !
Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.
Jim
Last edited by FRChutch; 09-22-2014 at 11:43 AM.
#22
Race Director
The pickup should be brazed to the pump body. You could probably also use regular 450*F solder paste, but it is not as strong
Trying to weld sheetmetal to cast iron, is not a good idea.
If you do braze the pickup to the body, remove teh pressure relief spring and ball first.
Do not forget to reinstall the spring and ball.
Doug
Trying to weld sheetmetal to cast iron, is not a good idea.
If you do braze the pickup to the body, remove teh pressure relief spring and ball first.
Do not forget to reinstall the spring and ball.
Doug
#23
Thankfully, brazing the pickup to the pump is no longer necessary. Pioner came up with this mechanical attachment. Easy to install and allows for re-positioning of the pick up.
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#24
Burning Brakes
Good you found the problem.
Just for the record, If you replace the oil pump and the supplier provides the wrong pump, you can install the distributer without engaging the pump. When I installed my distributer it went in so easy, I thought,
I can't be that lucky to hit the slot the first time. I removed and measured the shaft and the distance to the pump. The pump was over 1/2 inch below the shaft. I pulled the pan and returned the pump and the shop told me they had given me a 1957 chevy pump that is different.??????????
Don't really know what it was but it was a recipe for disaster and can happen.
Larry
Just for the record, If you replace the oil pump and the supplier provides the wrong pump, you can install the distributer without engaging the pump. When I installed my distributer it went in so easy, I thought,
I can't be that lucky to hit the slot the first time. I removed and measured the shaft and the distance to the pump. The pump was over 1/2 inch below the shaft. I pulled the pan and returned the pump and the shop told me they had given me a 1957 chevy pump that is different.??????????
Don't really know what it was but it was a recipe for disaster and can happen.
Larry
Last edited by Larry P; 09-22-2014 at 05:26 PM.
#25
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When I installed my distributer it went in so easy, I thought,
I can't be that lucky to hit the slot the first time. I removed and measured the shaft and the distance to the pump. The pump was over 1/2 inch below the shaft. I pulled the pan and returned the pump and the shop told me they had given me a 1957 chevy pump that is differant.??????????
I can't be that lucky to hit the slot the first time. I removed and measured the shaft and the distance to the pump. The pump was over 1/2 inch below the shaft. I pulled the pan and returned the pump and the shop told me they had given me a 1957 chevy pump that is differant.??????????
#26
Advanced
[QUOTE=Westlotorn;1587859446]I use a speed handle to prime the oil pump,
Hi I have SBC intake off and using a drill/primer, oil flows past the primer at the top distributor hole in the block is defective ? anybody tried grooving the distributor and using o-rings to ensure a tight seal between the block and the distributor , as this is how the lifters get oil ?
Hi I have SBC intake off and using a drill/primer, oil flows past the primer at the top distributor hole in the block is defective ? anybody tried grooving the distributor and using o-rings to ensure a tight seal between the block and the distributor , as this is how the lifters get oil ?
#27
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It sounds like you have the wrong priming tool. It should fit tightly, engage the pump and work without leaking. Dennis
#28
Advanced
[QUOTE=Bluestripe67;1588390015]It sounds like you have the wrong priming tool.
the tool is right , as it was low oil with the distributor too.
has anyone dealt with this ?
the tool is right , as it was low oil with the distributor too.
has anyone dealt with this ?
#29
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There is no oil pressure between the top of the distributor housing and the engine block. No need to "O" ring it.
There is pressure around the bottom of the distributor. That's where the lifter oil passes.
There is pressure around the bottom of the distributor. That's where the lifter oil passes.
#30
Advanced
thats the issue, as I have the intake off. I can see oil just gush around the sides of the tool, it measures the same size as dist. I never had good oil at the lifters when it was running.
#31
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This is what mine looks like. I understand some of those engine primers will spin the pump but won't route oil to the lifter galley via the groove in the lower end of the modified distributor you see here. I don't know what type you have?
#32
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Can it hurt to cut groves or notches in the bottom for o-rings, just seems like a good place to have o-rings to ensure proper flow. ya know
#33
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GM never used o rings on distributor housing.
It has worked for many millions of distributors.
Figure out what your problem is and don't do unnecessary modifications in my humble opinion.
Bruce B
It has worked for many millions of distributors.
Figure out what your problem is and don't do unnecessary modifications in my humble opinion.
Bruce B
#34
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Don't try to re-invent the wheel here.
#35
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The proper tool mimics the annulus near the bottom of the distributor housing to provide for oil flow to the lifter galleries, and it doesn't need O-rings.
#36
Advanced
the blue tool is the one I have, just cuz gm didn't use orings doesn't mean it was smart, they did use orings on the valves, and that was
#37
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#39
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Adding o-rings to a priming tool is a great solution to a problem which doesn't exist. The priming tool, when used properly, works just fine without o-rings.
#40
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I'm asking if anyone else has had this issue, and how they FIXED it ?
And replacing the block is not a option ! hence I say o-rings
I'm going to see if I have a caliper at my shop that I can get in there to check the ID of the block hole.