cpmman

There is a dstinct "snap" when the steering wheel is turned when the car is not moving or moving very slowly. It seems to go away when the car is being driven as I cannot hear or feel it at normal driving speeds

It has one "snap" when the steering wheel is turned about 10-15 degrees. The noise is coming from under the steering wheel hub which I pulled off but cannot find what is causing the snapping?

Any ideas what the cause and fix is?

DucatiDon

Could be one of two things....

1) hub is skipping a tooth on the steering shaft (unlikely)

2) Your shaft is worn at the lower bearing and is warped. (this happened to mine)

Does the wheel turn in a circle or is it eccentric?

Its most likely binding somewhere.

tbarb

Remove the wheel and contact then clean the cancelling cam pawls and related parts. Sounds like the pawls are hanging up because of dirt or grease.

nfran

I had a similar sound and symptom on my 65. It turned out that the upper bearing on the steering column was badly worn. I replaced it and all is fine. I rebuilt my steering column a while ago but didn't do the upper bearing at the time.

cpmman

Wheel turns fine in a circular motion....just a snapping.

I think it is the bearing as well.

What is the process to change it?

Frankie the Fink

First off - I'd eliminate the turn signal canceling cam as the cause of the snap. '63 has a unique setup and something may have gone awry with it. Next, the upper column bearings are fragile...and they are also the horn contact. You have to remove the steering wheel with a puller - then the turn signal mechanism along with the upper bearing "sleeve". The '63 does NOT USE the typical spring and collar arrangement like most cars. Then you'll have access to the bearing. The bearing should pry out but will be a snug fit..note how the horn wire is routed on removal. BE CAREFUL - if the bearing turns out to be fine, you'll be glad you preserved the original.

Again, '63 upper bearings are unique. The repros sold by the major vendors will work but aren't original. Below is an original bearing uninstalled and installed. The repro has narrower electrical contact area for the horn button and a different connector at the wire end (which you have to address before using).

cpmman

Thanks Frankie... I actually have the wheel off and see the exact set up as in the picture you posted.

I doubt it is the turn signal cancelling cam as the snap is a bit to loud for that but I'll double check.

What did you use to pry the bearing out...two screw drivers or something like that?

How did you put it in....slight press or tapping it in?

Thanks again..

Rick

Frankie the Fink

Pried it out with a hooked tool working side-to-side carefully. Seated it back in with a firm press and IIRC a few light taps with a rag-covered socket. I would get the front tires in the air on jack stands and lightly put the steering wheel back on the shaft and go lock-to-lock to see if I could locate the snap. If it isn't obvious at first...then remove the canceling ring and do the same thing again...

If the bearing IS shot then you'll have to decide to use a vendor repro or search for an original. There are a very few around on eBay occasionally. There are other nearly identical bearing with the wide copper face for the horn but with the wrong connector. These are better than the vendor repros but require a connector swap to match the original.

Don't forget there is a lower bearing too...a 'snap' sound could get carried up that mast jacket and fool you...

Finally, the whole steering column ***'y (including bearings) is pre-loaded by a clamp/spring arrangement in the engine bay. I've seen missing springs, loose clamps and springs adjusted WAY too loosely. You'll want to check that.

cpmman

problem area found!! It is not in the steering wheel hub ..it is coming from the rag joint. having not changed one before can that be the snapping? it is definately coming from that area and was traveling up the column as you suggested.

Also do I need to slide the steering column up to change the joint?

Frankie the Fink

I've never removed a rag joint. I think you can buy repos or there was somebody around that rebuilt them. I'm sure you'll have to loosen that bolt in the rag joint to back the steering column up to get the splined section free. Other than that you'll need to refer to the shop manual or somebody on here can probably help...

tbarb

To remove the rag joint simply loosen the locking bolt holding the upper rag half to the steering shaft and the lower spring clamp and the steering shaft will be free to slide up out of the way. After that remove the nuts to separate the rag halves, the lower half can stay on the steering box, the upper half is the part you want to replace.

Good luck finding one, all the reproduction rags I have seen are junk IMO compared to the correct Saginaw service replacement part.

DucatiDon

Dont forget to loosen the spring clamp on the shaft that seats against the lower bearing.