chrislyn

Does anyone have any Master cylinder experience . I have a P/B cylinder that I am going to rebuild. I purchased a new complete rebuild kit. I know all the basics disassembly thoroughly cleaning ect. The question I have is when and if I need to hone the cylinder bore how far do I go is there a bore size tolerance. If My cylinder is bad who would be able to sleeve it,assuming that is the fix.. Wes.

RestoMike

I've rebuilt a few however am no expert.....just dangerous in my knowledge. The ones I've built are still in use. I would check the bore and access the pitting factor as it could effect the functionality. Should it be rebuildable would run and hone down into the bore to smooth and clean things up a bit. Clean it up and kit the M/S. I've used Lone Star Caliper http://www.lonestarcaliper.com/ in the past for M/C's and brake calipers however they may be strictly wholesale/commercial. Corvette Stainless Steel Brakes http://ssbrakes.com/?gclid=CMaYoMb-8sACFYdlfgodf0EAeA is another company to consider.

chrislyn

Ttt

TCracingCA

Then you should not attempt a precision hone or boring and sleeving!

I would always recommend getting a new quality replacement master cylinder since we are talking about probably the single most important part in the whole entire car! Yes guys, there is actually something mechanical that is more important than your shiny paint!

mashinter

I didn't find a bore spec in the '66 Overhaul Manual for the master cylinder, but the '63 Shop Manual has a spec for the master cylinder (page 5-13), which is also a 1 inch bore: Bore to piston clearance should be 0.001 to 0.005.

66BlkBB

Speaking from experience with the P/B master cylinder, I would send it to a qualified company and have it sleeved and rebuilt by them. My master cylinder was pitted and I sent to White Post for resleeving. They use Brass sleeves. Stainless Steel Brakes also do resleeving but they use stainless sleeves. Your choice. As JohnZ said in another post, both will last longer than you will. Then I would think about going to Dot 5. Less hassle with possibility of moisture getting into the system.

chrislyn

I as a matter of fact am well experienced. I specifically asked for specs. I do know how To read a micrometer just need the spec!!!!

JohnZ

I'd just add that pitting of the bore surface is more important than a clearance spec; if you have any pitting and can't get it out with a LIGHT hone job, send the cylinder out for sleeving. Even the slightest pitting will damage new seals.

65GGvert

A 66 p/b rebuilt m/c will run you about $1100 if you find one. I saw some repro's for $850. I would definitely rebuild my original for lots of reasons, price included. I rebuilt my 65 (looks just like your 66) with a light sanding about 2 years ago. So far, so good. Good luck.

chrislyn

Thanks to all, Wes

TCracingCA

Quotes-- if I need to bore, if it is bad---- if if if if if? I know the basics of disassembly?? Put with all of the if's, it sure sounds like you haven't handle the basics of disassembly even yet!!!

If the bore can be polished to clean it up, then I would say rebuild it yourself.

If you have pitting in general, then I would say drill it for sleeving!

Honing would have to be an opinion move based on the fit of the pieces in the rebuild kit (their quality, testing the seal etc.) and how much material would need to be removed to get it good! And it may still need to be sent out for sleeving if a good mechanic feels it isn't good regardless of whether it is in tolerance or not!

I love guys that live and die on a tolerance mentality! I would never assemble anything critical to just a tolerance standard (especially the higher end) and would target the idea spec or the tightest on your tolerance mentality! Yes the factory did that just targeted tolerance, and that is why some cars end up as good cars and others as not so good cars! Thus shoot for close enough only (or within tolerance) if that is how you play mechanic! PS it doesn't sound like you have the equipment, if you are even considering a hone!

Ps M/C's that expensive for one? Wow!

Gary's '66

For a power brake '66 they are.