Frankie the Fink

My conversion to factory power brakes with original booster/master cylinder has run aground due to some 50 years old brake line fittings.
Penetrating oil, heat and vice grips to no avail....needless to say I'll be ordering some lines and a frame junction block at a minimum.

In the meantime if ANYbody can take some snapshots of how the hard line from the power brake master cylinder to the 4-way junction block on the left hand frame member just ahead of the steering box is routed around the clutch hardware/speedo cable/steering box I'd be much obliged. I know there is a frame clip for the line just under the clutch return spring...but I can't seem to decipher how to thread the line through all the stuff to make it work.
The AIM is no help at all here.

Maybe morley63 or someone else with a factory setup (not aftermarket).

Rich Yanulis

I found this photo saved on my computer...........nice '63 engine compartment.
I do not remember who's car it is, or where I got the photo from.

Frankie the Fink

Yeah - doesn't quite show what I need Rich. If the picture had been taken straight down leaning over the fender it would have been perfect. I can prob figure it out but a picture would sure make life easier.

mark6669

Frankie
Here are a couple that show the routing but not a very good view of the block. The car only lives a few miles from here of you need more.
Mark

Frankie the Fink

THATS what I needed - based on this I routed my power brake hard line identically to your pictures. Had to do it from underneath the car.

Just have to wait for some more brake line parts now.

Nice to see whoever owns that car has the steering column spring clamp adjusted properly too! Soooo many are too loose or even missing the spring....

mark6669

[QUOTE=Frankie the Fink;

Nice to see whoever owns that car has the steering column spring clamp adjusted properly too! Soooo many are too loose or even missing the spring....[/QUOTE]

Frank
I did that column about 7 years ago they are very easy if you just read the manual instead of trying to take short cuts.
Mark

Frankie the Fink

Shoulda known!

Thanks again...

rene-paul

I have to ask, How is the front to rear brake line? My 63 vert is up in the air for a diff rebuild, [I am doing it myself] and I changeed the rear cross over line and looked at the fore and aft line with a flash light and I and not happy. I am not lifting the body. IF anything I would build a line to go along the frame, Ty wrap in place and bubba on.
Brgds,
Rene

Frankie the Fink

All my brake lines were fine except I twisted the pipe on the front crossover line disconnecting it from the front driver's side frame rail junction block - there was no way around it. So I'll be replacing that. All my brake lines are fine otherwise.

Mike Coletta developed a method to replace the long front to rear brake line without taking the body off the car by working through one of the tail light holes. He is the only one I know who has done this (on a friend's '67). See post #6 and #11 where Mike provides his contact info:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-65-coupe.html

morly1963

I'll get out in the garage sunday and get some pics for you. You want from the junction block up to the master cylinder? morly1963

rtruman

Frankie while your looking check my steering spring out here are some picks of the power glide setup ,for what its worth.

morly1963

here are some pics-let me know if thats what u need-morly1963

Frankie the Fink

Yessir....those pics are a big help. I have a new junction block coming along with the front crossover brake line. I've done an extensive forum search and you are SUPPOSED to be able to replace the front line by only removing the front bumper lower braces. I'll find out in a few days - looks tricky to me. I'm trying to get the split window back on the road for Vette Fest at Old Town next Saturday - it'll be REAL close.

As to the spring rtuman and morley63. Yours both look weird to me. Either wrong springs or loose or something. If adjusted properly the spring's coils would be much closer together -- see my pic below or the 'mark6669' pic in post #4. Make sure you have part 19 per the AIM which abuts the top of the spring too. I could be wrong but its worth looking into.

morly1963

What r those springs for on the steering rod/shaft for? (I'm a graphic designer not a mechanic but I'm learning). Good luck making Old Town cool place to go. morly1963

Frankie the Fink

I'm theorizing here but having rebuilt my steering column I see it like this...that spring determines how much upward pressure (pre-load) is placed on the lower and upper bearings as they are in fixed positions in the mast jacket....that keeps the bearings running true in their races. I think that that spring adjustment should be made before the under dash mast jacket brace is secured or before the firewall clamp is secured.

That's again, my working hypothesis... You can prob get by for years with that spring loose but who knows ??

JohnZ

Morly - If you'll use the "macro" function on your camera (the little flower blossom symbol), all those close-up shots will be IN focus instead of fuzzy and OUT of focus.

morly1963

Thanks, I think the shaky-hands dont help!