5yrHabitual

I recently finished a conversion to R&P steering using the Steeroids kit. I had all the expected issues and, with the help us a friend who builds race cars, got it working okay. Before I post all the issues I want to know if anyone is actually interested. It is not a pretty story nor is it in any way complimentary towards Steeroids. I don't want to start a big argument on here but I am sure there are guys who are as frustrated as I was. It was not just unpleasant to drive - it was dangerous prior to making the changes. Don't drive your car with binding problems, wandering (chasing road contours), bump steer issues, or without getting the missing clamp for the lower end of the steering column.

HOG 1450

Tell me more.
My car is completely original running on cross ply tires. So tram lining is an every day occurrence. I have thought of fitting one of these as they say it's easy to install with no mods. That way I could turn it back to original just as easy.
But I gather by your comment this is not the case.

Plasticman

I am interested as well.

Thanks in advance,
Plasticman

bigearl56

Me too with pictures if you have them.

Earl

jim lockwood

A couple of years ago I did some miles in a C1 with the Steeroids conversion. I could NOT make the car go straight. Just staying in my lane required CONSTANT steering input. Not a pleasant experience.

I'll be very interested in reading about your findings and what you did to correct the issues you found.

Jim

Loren Smith

Also interested in hearing . . .

John S 1961

Once you have power steering these cars can use more castor, then they track nicely, I built my own r&P set up and had a bad bump steer issue but just measured it and shimmed as necessary. I really like it.

please share everything you learned.

Mrteddyears

I am interested in this conversion so would like to hear some real world experience and if it truly is bolt on.

Thanks


Steve

TPIShark

Also interested. No binding on my '58, but definitely a bump steer issue going on.

Driver 61

I installed my last year, lots of hard work! 2-1/2 days to remove old steering, I had cut off bolt heads for 3rd arm under radator frame. Time & care to remove column & gearbox. New steering column nice
2-3 day installing, issues with crank pully shimming for pump, clearance very tight on fittings, hose routing in & out , in & out till I got right. Speed shop was a help.
Now to enjoy, see pic x phothttp://s34.photobucket.com/user/chessfan/media/C12014.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Driver 61

try this
http://s34.photobucket.com/user/ches...tml?sort=3&o=1

Mrteddyears

The car is beautiful

jim lockwood

Hmmmm..... the OP seems to have vanished.

Loren Smith

Or the refund came through from Speed Direct?

kenmo

I'm interested in hearing the story as well....

Driver 61

Guys, I 'll try to put together a story or report, give me a week, I am on my way to Ocean City, MD,Big Corvette event on the board walk. Then returning to Hawaii.
I 'll post more pic tp photobucket
Aloha RICHARD

Driver 61

C1 Corvette Steeroids / Speed Direct project
This was one of the more challenging project I have done. The Speed Shop was great help.
It was difficult for me however it may easer others... here are issues
* It was first time I removing and installing R&P power steering on a C1
This was done in my garage without a lift, using jack stands, however I just layed there when i got tired, almost fell asleep.zzzzzz
I had no help, except my wife to tell me when it was time for lunch &dinner
I am 72 years old, I move a little slower. but still moving
Let me also say, I love working my Corvette. I have been working on cars as a hobby 60 years, with 20 yrs+ proffesional. I got 2 vettes, & 2 El Caminos. Just can’t remember where they are.

After ordering the Steeroids kit with power steering from the Speed Shop I lay it all out and made sure I had all parts. I still needed a pump belt, new steering wheel, shimms for my crank double grove pulley, The Kit was nice & complete

I washed the front underside. The started to remove, pictured & logged.
front wheels, driver’s seat, steering wheel, drivers exhaust headers, protected fenders & interior, bagged sealed end column, Prop hood to vertical position, drain radiator.
Removed the steering wheel & gearbox with drag link. Carefully removed the VIN tag.
In removing the 3rd arm, two front mount bolts very difficult to access from the top. I was told a very long extension from top might access. I cut the heads off the bolts and punched the remains studs out. The tie rods, You’ll need a puller or bar, I measured and removed, You will also need to remove engine mount bolt and support engine on right (Pssg side).
I removed the fan and Rad. shroud and lower hose. Now access to crank pulley
That took over two days, I didn’t rush, cleaed and marked and stop when needed a nap .

On the installation, I preassembled on car and attached tape , marks using painter tape on anything loose. The two black support mount were okay, The hoses and fitting were tought, due lack of clearance. I install & removed a few times to get needed clearances.
I had two grove pulley on crank and was able to use it, however It needed shimmed.
I used a cord as a template to find the length of belt.
The power pump was another issues, due clearances and bolts heads, but it does go in.
The resveior tank was the easy.
Installing the R&P again clearance issue, go slow tighting the assembly onto mounts, the fitting will contact and need reposition. I strapped R& P up inton position before tighting down. Always checking clearances!
I had measured my old tie rods end, wheel to wheel to end and I thought I would keep same distance when installing. If measure wheel on ground differ if on jack stand, errr... I still have recheck evertthing when I return to Hawaii.

Summary, I woud pay to have somebody else do it, lost the fun somewhere. I would estimat it shoud take 16-24 man hours. I still need do a more work & recheck. I enjoy and drive car more now.
I also install power top, lot easer job.

PS; I almost forgot, the new steering linkage requires setting up, clearance and binding are issues, I ran my plug wires below header, watch lock nuts binding on headers. Reinstall that VIN tag GOODS.
Happy to answer any questions, richard.galope@gmail.com

Loren Smith

Great writeup, Richard. I wish Borgeson offered a C1 steering box that bolted in the stock location that allow removal of the stock death spear and replacement with 1) a better steering box; 2) new u joint linkage that results in the steering column being pushed up in a crash instead of your chest; and 3) installation of a new aftermarket steering column with better mechanicals. I would suspect this would be a much quicker and simpler installation than the Steeroids.

DZAUTO

I've read all of the above, as well as MULTIPLE other discussions related to 53-62 frontend steering, suspension, brake issues. MANY, but not all, of them have had rather lengthy discussions, comments, problems, frustrations, complaints, etc, etc, regarding the changing to "more modern" components. And a few had positive comments about the result. So, based on what I've read hear, there seems to be more negative input on making changes to the 53-62 frontend components than there are positive comments.
I've been rebuilding and/or working on 49-54 pass car and 53-62 Vette frontends (they're about 95% the same) for almost 50yrs. FOR THE MOST PART (but not entirely), I'm of the opinion that with a proper frontend rebuild, good alignment (with just a TOUCH MORE caster), radial tires on stock spec back spacing wheels (no wider than a 6in wheel), switching to roller front wheel bearings, a properly adjusted steering box (rebuilt if needed) and a really good brake overhaul with QUALITY shoes, these old cars will steer, turn, track and stop just fine--------------------------with minimal effort applied to steering input.
And yes, I have all of the above done to the the STOCK frontend, steering, brakes on the 56--------------with ONE exception. I do have a set of "home made" HD brakes on the 56. They are slightly modified larger finned drums with wider Olds shoes, but they are manual drums and stop the car just fine without pulling left or right. The chassis/frame/suspension is not modified and every part is essentially a stock, bolt-on early Corvette (or Chevrolet part). The 56 has a healthy SB400/Rochester FI/Muncie/3.08 posi and everything is purely "factory" compatable. It's really built with the KISS principle which makes locating parts (no custom stuff) and doing repairs very simple.
The ONLY thing the car does not have (which I dearly miss) is air cond.
For me, the bottom line is that with a proper restoration and rebuilding of mechanical systems, these old Vettes perform and drive just fine.

John S 1961

http://www.fototime.com/inv/4CB61820173B5FD

My Home brew Prototype frugal system, I chose to abandon the front motor mount and weld in (the horror!) side engine mounts. This opens up the world of accessory drives to a variety of off the shelf or out of the wrecking yard solutions. Then you have where the old front motor mounts bolted to as a place to mount the new crossmember to hold your new rack, courtesy of dodge omni. Make up a couple of new steering arms, check bump steer shim to adjust, own the parking lot!