Classic-Chevy-Guy

Started to take the door panels off my 64 Coupe because the previous owner's painters installed the door lock cylinders on the wrong doors (key inserts upside down!!!).

So, removed the springs from both window cranks and then went for the interior door lock. The lock is on the spindle and there is no spring on the lock. Tried to pull it loose but it did not budge..

I assume that is epoxied on.

Any suggestions to removing the lock. The only method that I can think of is to drill out the center of the lock and use a wheel/bearing puller.

Thanks to all.

66jack

Did you remove this part?


DOOR LOCK RETAINER

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5Z50000050B~~~

Blue Ridge 67

The retainer secures the lock cylinder to the door. I read that the interior lock **** is glued to the splined shaft.Try hitting the **** with a hammer (gently) and see if you can break the glue joint with the shaft.

Classic-Chevy-Guy

You are correct. That's the problem I am having. Tried a rubber hammer but maybe I need more shock.

Nowhere Man

There was never any glue used. Just the same clips used on the window cranks. Not sure what books you are reading but you might want to find better ones

RatDog

My understanding was that bubba used glue instead of the clip.

-- Steve

Classic-Chevy-Guy

Correct

wombvette

Apply Heat

troutster71

Hair dryer may work. Heat gun will. Be careful of the door panel.

66jack

My fault....misread the whole thing...

Anyway...I would try some vise grips and wiggle and pull the "S" out of it...
If you hit it on it too much or too hard you 'might' break the fiberglass where is mounts to door skin/panel...

Classic-Chevy-Guy

If I have to sacrifice the ****, should I just drill around the outside of the center, and then dremel the rest of the **** off the shaft? This would allow me to get the door panel off.

Does the **** connect to the piece they call the Lock Rod? In case of some really strong glue, might have to replace the Rod as well as the ****.

Heat and a real pounding scare me a bit at doing more damage than spending a few bucks on repro parts.

Thoughts on this approach would be appreciated.

66jack

It attaches to this...

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5Z50000050B~~~


I would cut across the finger grip portion and try and split it...by wedging in a flat tip screw driver...

John S 1961

Have you considered living with them the way they are? alternatively, do you have a good clear view of the back of the cylinders? lighting, mirrors may be required.

Classic-Chevy-Guy

I have thought about it, but here is the issue.

It is a Top Flight car and after it was judged, the passenger lock cylinder stopped working with the key. I tried some graphite, but it did not work.

Thought that the cylinder being upside down, could have caused it, so the plan is to pull the door panels, examine the cylinder, and swap them once the passenger cylinder was corrected.

The bad news, that if epoxy or similar glue was used on the passenger side, the same thing may await me on the driver's side.

All for the sake of a missing clip!!!!

RatDog

Bubba probably didn't have the clip so he glued it figuring it would never be an issue for him and just kicked the can down the road for the next guy.

I like the vice grip idea. Grab the **** and work it back and forth in all directions to see if you can break it loose. If that doesn't work, bring on the drill and destroy the **** down to the shaft to get the panel off.

-- Steve

Blue Ridge 67

There is a tool called a "Nut Buster" that loops over nuts and then a threaded shaft drives a wedge to split nuts. This **** is a die cast part and should split easily. The tools are sold on E-Bay ~~ $10

Frankie the Fink

Those interior lock ***** are notorious for falling off if you slam the door closed if the "U" shaped clip is a little weak. I'm betting some clown decided to do a quickee fix. If that grooved part of the shaft got worn and the lock **** was loosey-goosey.....then again it might have gotten glued on to make it work

The vice grips are one approach but I might also try using the wife's thin cutting plastic board or a plastic bondo spreader or some other wide flat object and lay it on the door vinyl and using a brake adjustment spoon or something similar just pushing against the plastic temporary shield lever the snot out of the **** until it either cracked apart of came jumping off.

Classic-Chevy-Guy

Carefully tried a Wonder Bar and did not have any luck. Think part of the issue that any leverage tool only acts on one side of the shaft, so it almost works against itself.

Leading a caravan for Vettes to Vets in Bedford, MA today. Expect over 400 cars and donations to go to the Veterans Hospital.

Hopefully, will get a chance either the evening or tomorrow to try your suggestions.

Thanks for the advice and will keep you informed.

Frankie the Fink

There is no reason why you couldn't use two levers (one on each side) and get medieval on the thing..

I will make one final suggestion that you look REALLY hard behind that lock with a flashlight and pushing the door vinyl as far back a possible and make VERY sure there is no U clip on the lock shaft. They can be hard as the dickens to spot...

If somebody put the lock clip on from the bottom you'll barely see the two little wire-like tips showing from the top.

65 Pro Vette

I would look real hard, the 63 - 64 are very hard to see. If you see it is there you can wrap a thin rag all around the shaft and pull it back and forth it gets those hard to get clips.