TX63CONV

I am considering doing a frame ON restoration over the winter and would like to (a) get some dos and don'ts (b) is it worth it and (c) help me draw the line of what to accomplish.

My first corvette was a body off restoration and while it ended up looking fantastic, I was way in over my head financially and it took years.

This car is a driver and the paint is probably an 8 out of a 10—its staying for now. The transmission definitely needs to be rebuilt, new clutch, engine probably needs an overhaul (its smoking out of the psgr side exhaust), one of my headlight motors needs to be rebuilt and I would like to freshen up my gauges.

As you can see, this is already a long list. My thought was to pull the motor with the trans and then either get it on a lift or worst case get it high on jack stands. I would like to inspect the front end, and do a general degrease, clean up of the suspension and particularly the underside. I am starting to see some surface rust on the underside of the frame and would like to sand and spray paint the areas that I can get to.

I already have a new engine bay wire harness that will take care of the many splices etc in the engine bay. I can pull the HL motors and give the engine bay a nice coat of semi gloss. When I pull the cluster, I will probably end up buying a main harness to replace the hacked up one that is in there now.

I would probably pull the half shafts and drive shaft, clean and paint them. New u-joints.

When I inspect the brakes, should I disassemble, and paint?

Help me draw the line before I get through all this and end up pulling the body anyway.

Any reason not to do this?

Frankie the Fink

I did a similar refresh on my '63 coupe. The frame had surface rust and IMO that takes precedence over some of the other things. I coated the inside of the frame liberally with Eastman's Internal Chassis Treatment (6 cans -- a lot!). Went over the outside of the frame with Ospho rust stabilizer followed up with chassis black coating everywhere I could reach. If you remove the rocker molding its surprising how much of the frame you can actually reach.

The early original Muncie in the car was leaking at the front countershaft and side cover. I fixed the sidecover with an upgraded piece and moved the transmission rearward about two inches and fixed the countershaft leak. Also replaced rear main oil seal. That was about all the car needed underneath.

Next was complete brake job on all four corners and restoration of the spare tire tub. More general cleanup of various things and securing some wiring that had come loose from its clips and that's about it.

If you get too carried away you'll reach that point where a frame off would actually be less trouble. I did all of this before I got my lift which has made my life infinitely more pleasurable.

rene-paul

IMHO, Keep it driveable. Safety items first, brake system including flex hoses and solid lines. Front suspension, ball joints, a-arm bushings. Rear suspension, trailing arms and spindles. Engine, maybe a valve job is all that is needed. One step at a time and finish that step, and drive; other wise mission creep sets in and you are where you were on your first resto. AND keep us informed.
Brgds,
Rene

nfran

Hi TX63CONV,
I've been slowly doing a body on restoration for the last 4 years on my 65 convertible. I too, like Frankie-the-Fink, have been doing it in my garage with unfortunately no lift, no height to put one in. Take your time and make your car safe to drive and dependable, then you can enjoy it more. Here's a few pics of the rear suspension work.

Nowhere Man

I would make a detailed check list of everything you want to do and needs done. and make anther one that is while I am there I should do. add up all the parts and material you will need. and unless your retired plain on for longer then your think.

Bluestripe67

How many miles on the engine? It's not uncommon for the valve seals, especially on the exhaust valve too be toast/gone. Does it smoke only at start up or while cruising. What do the plugs look like.Have you done a cylinder pressure test? You may not need a full rebuild. With the engine/trans out replace the heater core and rebuild the heater box seals. After doing all of your work check the age of your tires. If they are over six (6) years old replace them. Keep track of all you do, make notes and don't rush any of it. Keep safety in mind!!!! Dennis

KC John

I did a quick engine swap and compartment clean up. Here is a before and after to get you motivated.

TX63CONV

Thanks for all the responses. Some of the items mentioned have been addressed already but I like the idea of making a detailed list and then adding things that I should do while I am there....of course that is where the issues begin.

I don't have any major rust, just surface rust and a lot of grime.

The trans has to come out for a rebuild--T10 that is popping out of 2nd and is now starting to pop out of 3rd. Not MUCH more trouble to pull the engine and do a freshen up like KC John.

I really only drive the car in the fall and spring since it doesn't have A/C. I would drive it in the summer at night to the hamburger stand/cruise in but now that one of my HL motors crapped out a month ago, I haven't taken it out at night.

Another option (which would be longer term) is to do certain projects during the winter and summer months. That would keep it on the road during driving season.

Let me think about a plan and I will run it by you guys. Thanks!

Frankie the Fink

A Detroit Speed electronic headlight conversion (about $500 and 1/2 day of work) will end your headlight pop-up issues FOREVER. You can rebuild the original motors at your leisure if you put the conversion in. Vintage Air A/C is another awesome upgrade (about $1200 and 4 days work). I did both of these to my split window in short order after receiving it from the seller. Best mods so far !

TX63CONV

Detroit speed conversion? I'll have to do my homework on that one. What are the benefits compared to rebuilding my motors?

I just installed an OLD AIR A/C unit on a mustang I've spent the last two years restoring. I have not charged it yet but not very happy with the kit....wish I had gone Classic Air or Vintage Air but I got for half the price through a dealer friend.

Instead of working, I have spent the day outlining several individual projects that would take the car down for a while but would be manageable to hopefully get it back on the road in a reasonable amount of time. Then move on to the next project. Let me polish them up and I will post the details of each to get some feed back.

leif.anderson93

What didn't you like about the Old Air A/C unit?? Being as they're local I was thinking about using them for some work on my car.

Frankie the Fink

The Detroit Speed conversion: http://detroitspeed.com/1963-1967-Co...-door-kit.html

There is nothing wrong with rebuilding your headlight motors and if you do it yourself it's pretty cheap. I rebuilt my original motors and they're sitting on a shelf as I installed the Detroit Speed. No more 'lazy' openings or sticky motors, and, even if something should fail you just push the headlight open against the system's clutches in a second or two instead of dicking around with a thumbwheel forever.

You also no longer have that high amperage going through the headlight door switch...

TX63CONV

Ok, I checked out the DSE conversion. Looks pretty nice and has gotten lots of good reviews. I'll add that to my consideration.

"...didn't like about the Old Air A/C?". I used a kit for the 69/70 mustang and it was a little bit of a mess. There were brackets and pulleys for a 67, instructions for a 71, the cable is way to long and I ended up ditching it. I sourced an original a/c dash and vents but the ones that came with the kit were very cheap plastic. There was one guy in the tech dept who was very helpful but the others were not very friendly. My friend has it on his 55 Chevy and he likes it and it works good. There is a shop in Garland--Wilson Auto Repair--that they recommend for installation. I was going to get them to charge my system but haven't had time yet. I also found a place in Garland that will crimp the a/c hoses for $3 a crimp (Hose Fast). The corvette kit may be better...

TCracingCA

Rattle can work for painting, then and only then will I consider it a true On-Chassis restoration!

C2Racer

Hose Fast is just down the road from me and they are great. Open Saturday mornings if I remember correctly? I would also recommend McCains on Floyd Circle near TI for AC work. The owner has a 67(I think) Vette and they have been around for decades. Use to be on 75 north of Spring Valley next to the Mazda Dealer.

I am almost in the same boat you are with my street car. Would like to take the body off my 64 to blast the frame and make it perfect(for a few weeks) but just did the 63 SWC race car and now know how much work it is.

Good luck with yours.

Steve

veeeight

Frankie,

I am interested in installing the Detroit Speed conversion for headlights.
Was it an easy install and can you get to everything you need to by removing the hood.

Phil

TX63CONV

Well I made a list, its a little long and will probably change as I go. What I would like to do is project 1 over the winter and hopefully have the car back on the road by spring, then project 2 over the summer, etc.

What I would like input on are things like "you cant do _____ without also doing _____" or "while you are at ______, you should also do _____"

Thanks everyone.

STEVE-
Are you going to Hallet next weekend? I couldn't find the bag with my old a/c bolts and parts.

C2Racer

No, we are going to COTA. Went last year with the Alfa so this year is the Vette's turn. No problem on the bolts. Thanks for looking!

Steve

Frankie the Fink

You can actually do it withOUT removing the hood (I did) by propping the hood up past where the prop rod usually holds it...do so VERY securely though. Removing the hood does make access easier.

The kit is well-designed and thought out...the instructions are basically full proof if you have an iota of mechanical aptitude.

My install took about 5 hours because I was meticulous in every detail, routing the wiring, securing and tie-wrapping the old unused connectors, installing the new motors, etc.. Now that I've done one I could knock another out in prob 3 hours..

veeeight

Thanks Frankie,

Good info as always.

Phil