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I'm about ready to pull my engine and tranny and install a new transmission (LGT-700) and clutch (McLeod RST dual disc).
I'm going to need a new driveshaft and was thinking of going with a 3" aluminum one. I checked the tunnel there's really no clearance issues that I can tell. If anyone has some good info let me know. I want to make it strong but still get good rpm's that's why aluminum and not steel. Feedback?
What about a removable cross member. I should have done it when I had the body off a few years ago. Such is my regret now.
I see some fellow is selling flanges that you just buy and weld on after you make the cuts on the X-member. I was thinking of using a sawz-all or grinder. I tried to raise my floorboards and almost gained an inch of clearance. I used hockey pucks - one on each side.
If anyone has some good tips on this procedure I'm all ears.
Just heading over to my buddies to pick up his engine puller, back shortly.
I got rid of that heavy and poorly welded piece of crap! And with some tweeks I put in a 68-82 Bowtie Overdrived Company unit (nice clean piece)!
I assume you will be running 1350 Ujt's, with my 3" driveshaft I had clearance issues and I like you hockey puck fix! Also load a passenger and a driver in the car to see where your at also. My situation was probably made worse because I raised the rear differential also! I have side exhausts and I decided on a reinstall of a parking brake even though it is a race car!
TC, thanks for the advice on the U-joints. Because of the space I was thinking 1330's.
Hockey pucks are great because they are just slightly smaller than an inch in width, they are rubber, can handle hot and cold environments and throughout my years playing hockey I never broke very many and I played a lot of hockey still do.
Just came back from my pals place. Talked to him about my X-member problem and he said he could help my out. His company does plenty of high end welding with engineers available. He said he would ask one of the engineers he knows.
At his place I drew out some diagrams and talked about stress points and torsional weakness.
He said it shouldn't be a big deal and he'll do the welding for me since I'm welding deficient...
We talked about a few of the different kinds of removable cross members I've seen others do.
I'm not sure who's this is but I like it best:
There are a couple more that are also quite good but I kind of like this one.
Not advice but just a comment. With the option you are thinking of using, you will have to remove both pipes after the headers. May be an issue - maybe not. It would be for my car.
Not advice but just a comment. With the option you are thinking of using, you will have to remove both pipes after the headers. May be an issue - maybe not. It would be for my car.
Bud.
Bud, not a problem for me because I have sidepipes.
Here's another set of flanges I was looking at. I believe a fellow by the name of Ray Dowling makes them but I don't have an E-mail or Contact number. If anyone has this info could you please pass it on to me.
Again, I'm not sure who's car this is but these are the flanges I'm looking at.
And can tell they are homemade. I would go 3/16 plate and cut four squares and just round one corner with with a grinder! I would suggest drilling one hole first and maybe make it slightly oversized for wiggle and mock it up with one bolt, then tack weld, and then mark the other bolt holes unless you are a more of a precision type of guy with a tape measure!
I am still impressed by the hockey pucks. They are kind of thicker than what was there, but it sure will help you clearance. On mine, I was slicing and splitting the fiberglass for the thick wall aluminum .125 3" driveshaft with the 1350 UJTs.
PS I have seen some guys retaining these drill bolt holes in the exhaust pass thru's and thread in bolts to clamp in the larger pipes so they are not rattling in the circular cans!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 10-01-2014 at 04:13 PM.
Here's another set of flanges I was looking at. I believe a fellow by the name of Ray Dowling makes them but I don't have an E-mail or Contact number. If anyone has this info could you please pass it on to me.
Again, I'm not sure who's car this is but these are the flanges I'm looking at.
Thanks
65-StingRay
The last photo is my car. And yes that is a 3" O.D. driveshaft and it does fit.
And can tell they are homemade. I would go 3/16 plate and cut four squares and just round one corner with with a grinder! I would suggest drilling one hole first and maybe make it slightly oversized for wiggle and mock it up with one bolt, then tack weld, and then mark the other bolt holes unless you are a more of a precision type of guy with a tape measure!
I am still impressed by the hockey pucks. They are kind of thicker than what was there, but it sure will help you clearance. On mine, I was slicing and splitting the fiberglass for the thick wall aluminum .125 3" driveshaft with the 1350 UJTs.
PS I have seen some guys retaining these drill bolt holes in the exhaust pass thru's and thread in bolts to clamp in the larger pipes so they are not rattling in the circular cans!
My welder friend and I talked about using 3/8" and build the flanges kind of like you described.
Thanks for the help.
The last photo is my car. And yes that is a 3" O.D. driveshaft and it does fit.
At least now I know who's car I'm referring to. Thanks for the insight on the drive shaft Dave. I'm starting to lean to a 2.5" with .095" wall thickness for a little better breathing room.
The last photo is my car. And yes that is a 3" O.D. driveshaft and it does fit.
At least now I know who's car I'm referring to. Thanks for the insight on the drive shaft Dave. I'm starting to lean to a 2.5" with .095" wall thickness for a little better breathing room.
65-StingRay
Wayne
I have said this in a prior post on another thread about driveshafts. It isn't so much the O.D. of the driveshaft as it is with the large 1350 yoke at the transmission side. As you can see in a photo in the first post the driveshaft is actually offset inside the tunnel toward the passenger side. I did have to remove a small area of the tunnel about 2"x2" to get extra clearance around the trans yoke as I had exactly zero. However the 3" fits inside the tunnel the entire way even though many say it won't.
Dave - just as an aside - how have you liked your crossmember since you installed it. Does it fit well...easy to remove...anything else you may be able to add.
Dave - just as an aside - how have you liked your crossmember since you installed it. Does it fit well...easy to remove...anything else you may be able to add.
Thanks again,
Wayne
I love it. My dad has a 67 and hates having to remove his transmission. For me it is a piece of cake. Oh yeah I didn't mention this before if you do use a 3" driveshaft you will need the removable cross member to be able to install the larger driveshaft.
Here are some photos that might help.
And the bigger driveline components allows me to do this without breaking stuff. Good thing the wife doesn't mind these marks in the driveway
Last edited by 4 Speed Dave; 10-02-2014 at 05:23 AM.
Reason: Forgot a wod
We have a removable crossmember kit for C2/C3 that will work with your LGT trans. We also have full hydraulic kits and other installation pieces for the LGT units.
The brackets have to be welded on so this is a body off modification. If you're using an automatic frame, it will bolt in place using the factory side brackets.
[QUOTE=4 Speed Dave;1587954096]I love it. My dad has a 67 and hates having to remove his transmission. For me it is a piece of cake. Oh yeah I didn't mention this before if you do use a 3" driveshaft you will need the removable cross member to be able to install the larger driveshaft.
Dave,
I probably missed it, and I can't tell from the pic, where
did you get your driveshaft ?
Thanks,
Dom
I love it. My dad has a 67 and hates having to remove his transmission. For me it is a piece of cake. Oh yeah I didn't mention this before if you do use a 3" driveshaft you will need the removable cross member to be able to install the larger driveshaft.
Dave,
I probably missed it, and I can't tell from the pic, where
did you get your driveshaft ?
Thanks,
Dom
I have purchased a few driveshafts from them and have always been very pleased with their service and product. I purchased the two piece transmission yoke from Moser. The yoke that Denny's provides is a typical yoke that makes installation impossible. You will need the two piece cap yoke.
Last edited by 4 Speed Dave; 11-05-2014 at 01:48 PM.
Reason: added extra info
I have purchased a few driveshafts from them and have always been very pleased with their service and product. I purchased the two piece transmission yoke from Moser. The yoke that Denny's provides is a typical yoke that makes installation impossible. You will need the two piece cap yoke.
Thank you.
Not up to that point just yet, but, it's never too soon to start checking.
I have a set of flanges to do this but I didn't see any mention of how to cut the cross member while the body is on the car. I thought I would use a die grinder to cut the sides and bottom and then finish the top cut with my air grinder with a thin cutting blade. Any other suggestions would be appreciated from someone who has done this before. Thanks
09-29-2014, 09:16 PM
Need some advice on driveshaft and X-member
