PattiR

I tried a search but did not get anything useful.
How do I remove the lug bolts from the rear axel? I have one that is broken flush and will probably have to drill. But I have another that is stripped, and beating on it while on the car is getting scary 'cause it is not moving much! 1/16, or maybe even only a 32nd. I've used a full size ball peen hammer. The videos I've seen on the tube show a single or 2-3 whacks and the studs on newer 'vettes seem to pop right out.
Do I get a bigger hammer? Or do I have to take out the axle and have a shop press these out? I don't want to damage the axle or the diff. due to slamming away w/o any hope of getting these out.

Thanks,

Dennis

wraplock

I would heat the axle flange around the lug bolt with a torch and then drive them out. It won't take a lot of heat to get them to move. Caution don't apply heat directly to the lug bolt, you want the steel around it to expand not the lug bolt.

Don

MikeM

Pull the brake drum and look at the back side. Someone could have tack welded them in place.

Otherwise, man up and wail on it. You won't hurt anything.

PattiR

Oh we've manned up on the 3 that were not broken. Ten whacks with a 4 lb. hammer and out. My problem is the one that is broken and I can't get enough force on it! It's flush with the axle flange. The only thing I can think of now is to drill it halfway and put a drift in the hole and beat the H out of it like Alabama is doing to my AGGIES right now!!!

Any suggestions? Not about football. Thanks,

Dennis

Nowhere Man

A long punch and keep smacking it

MikeM

I wouldn't drill it. You might screw up the ID. Try this.

PattiR

I looked for one of those and can't find it. Do you have a source?

Dennis

MikeM

No, not offhand. I guess I don't understand why your studs would be any tighter than normal?

PattiR

They are original, that's the only answer I can come up with. The full studs came out fairly easy, just having a heck of a time with the broken one.

Dennis

John S 1961

air hammer, or air chisel, thread on a lug nut some to help contain it. If that doesnt work youll be pulling the axle and heading off to the machine shop, may as well do both sides

Plasticman

I will be the naysayer.

Many moons ago I learned (the hard way) not to beat on wheel bearings. Had a vehicle we were having painted at a friend's shop, and I had forgotten to tell him where the lug nut lock key was "hidden". Rather than call me, he just beat a socket over the locking lug nuts.....

Within a couple hundred miles, front bearings on both sides ( these were tapered roller bearings, which have more surface area than most weaker C1 wheel ball bearings) were making "noises". Upon removal, I could clearly see the evenly spaced indentations on the bearings from severe side impact while stationary. Never did see a problem with the rears, so perhaps those were "stronger".

The term for this condition is "Brinelling".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling

Plasticman

MikeM

Put a slide hammer on the rear axle and beat on it until the axle comes out. Then put it in a press to push the stud out.

Use caution as you'll be beating against the bearings when you use the axle puller. Of course, if you use too much caution, you won't get the axle out. I think the original rear bearings were ball bearings if I remember right.