No spark from coil
10-18-2014, 11:44 PM
#1
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No spark from coil
Trying to start a '66 327 all stock barn find. No spark from coil to distributor. Have 4.7 volts on + side with key on and 9 volts during cranking. New coil and condenser but no help. Could it be the solenoid not boosting voltage or something with the points that look fine? Also, the points also have a built in condenser?!? Thanks all
10-19-2014, 01:35 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
Just a guess but have you checked the ballast resistor?
Last edited by Gary's '66; 10-19-2014 at 01:47 AM.
10-19-2014, 08:02 AM
#3
Race Director
Trying to start a '66 327 all stock barn find. No spark from coil to distributor. Have 4.7 volts on + side with key on and 9 volts during cranking. New coil and condenser but no help. Could it be the solenoid not boosting voltage or something with the points that look fine? Also, the points also have a built in condenser?!? Thanks all
I usually think of ballast resistors as either good or bad - not much in between. I would check voltage coming into it from the ignition switch (not starter) lead and see what you have.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 10-19-2014 at 08:06 AM.
10-19-2014, 08:49 AM
#4
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If you have that kind of voltage at the coil, you should have spark on the big coil wire if:
Your points open/close
Your points are clean
Your condenser is good.
Put a test light on the distributor side of the coil and crank the engine. If your test light flashes, your points are opening/closing and making contact and you should see a spark at the coil if the condenser is good.
Your points open/close
Your points are clean
Your condenser is good.
Put a test light on the distributor side of the coil and crank the engine. If your test light flashes, your points are opening/closing and making contact and you should see a spark at the coil if the condenser is good.
10-19-2014, 10:45 AM
#5
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Could be - both voltage readings sound kind of low - the cranking voltage should be at least 9.5 volts so 9 volts is a little marginal but not way out of line. Is your battery in good shape - might check voltage reading on it while cranking. I would be most concerned about the key on reading of 4.7 volts - that could be related to the ignition switch or maybe a problem at the bulkhead connection as I don't think it feeds through the starter.
I usually think of ballast resistors as either good or bad - not much in between. I would check voltage coming into it from the ignition switch (not starter) lead and see what you have.
I usually think of ballast resistors as either good or bad - not much in between. I would check voltage coming into it from the ignition switch (not starter) lead and see what you have.
10-19-2014, 10:48 AM
#6
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If you have that kind of voltage at the coil, you should have spark on the big coil wire if:
Your points open/close
Your points are clean
Your condenser is good.
Put a test light on the distributor side of the coil and crank the engine. If your test light flashes, your points are opening/closing and making contact and you should see a spark at the coil if the condenser is good.
Your points open/close
Your points are clean
Your condenser is good.
Put a test light on the distributor side of the coil and crank the engine. If your test light flashes, your points are opening/closing and making contact and you should see a spark at the coil if the condenser is good.
10-19-2014, 11:19 AM
#7
Drifting
10-19-2014, 11:31 AM
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10-19-2014, 11:42 AM
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10-19-2014, 11:49 AM
#10
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10-19-2014, 03:28 PM
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http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...tionBasics.pdf
10-19-2014, 08:41 PM
#12
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The capacitor on the coil bracket is for radio noise suppression, and was installed when the car was built. The condenser inside the distributor serves an entirely different purpose as part of the ignition system and is unrelated to the one on the coil bracket. You might want to read the article below so you better understand how the ignition system works and how to diagnose it.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...tionBasics.pdf
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...tionBasics.pdf
10-19-2014, 09:05 PM
#13
Charge up the battery and run a jumper wire directly from the battery positive terminal to the coil positive terminal. This will bypass miles of old wiring and crusty terminals.
10-19-2014, 10:31 PM
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