don T

Hello All,
I just bought a beautiful 1964 Stingray Convertible that has been restored in the past 6-8 years. The front of the hood is high by an 1/8 on the drivers side and 3/16" on the passenger side. It looks to me that if I could have a set of hinges "re-fabricated" to lower the front of the hood, this would solve this. Every other solution I have read about seem severe and expensive. Has anyone done this? If yes who can do this hinge fabrication? All suggestions are appreciated.

Pilot Dan

Don, I just took a look at my 64 which has all it's original front fiberglass and hood and is straight to try and answer this. The way my hinges close, with all the bolts in place I tried an 1/8 " spacer in between the hinge to simulate shortening it (which I think is your idea) and the bolts touch. My hood when closed is about 1/16 below the fenders.

Assuming you don't have any shims under the hinges (you checked that right?), the only way I see to get the spacing back is to separate the inner fenders (wheel wells) from the top fenders and reposition them. My guess is at some point the nose on your car may have been replaced and it was slightly off when they glued it. Sorry, I know that's not what you wanted to hear. Pilot Dan

MikeM

I don't know why you couldn't just section the appropriate amount out of the height of your hinges and then weld them back together. I've not done it but don't see why you couldn't for a quick and dirty fix.

don T

Hi Dan,
Unfortunately no shims. I am guessing this car may have been a frame off restore, it is very clean everywhere I look. I have read about separating the fenders and repositioning but it worries me that someone could screw the car up. The car isn't perfect because of this but it isn't too bad either.
I am looking for ideas and input.

Pilot Dan

Mike, I was thinking that which is why I tried the spacer. Problem is the clearance between the bolts that hold the hood and the bolts that hold the hinge to the inner fender. They touch when an 1/8 is added per my experiment during rotation of the hood. Now speaking in Bubba's voice and not Dan's, you could do it the way you suggest IF you eliminated the lower mounting bolts and welded male studs in there that were flush to the hinge. Then I could see shortening the hinges. Of course Bubba would also have to drill out the weld nut below to accomplish the mounting.

JohnZ

Put shims under the rearmost hinge-to-body bolt on each side, and it will bring the hinge pivot (and the front edge of the hood) down.

MikeM

Will that fix 3/16"? Just curious.

JohnZ

I don't recall, but it'll definitely fix the 1/8" overflush.

Pilot Dan

I'd be interested to see if that fixes his problem without raising the sides of the hood above the fenders, certainly worth a try.
OP post some pictures of before and after for us if you can, so we can see the gaps .

MikeM

I knew that would drop the hood a little. Just didn't know how much.

don T

Question for JohnZ,
Do you think adding these shims is something that is capable for a "minor" mechanic? I am comfortable with anything mechanical but wayyy not good with messing with fiberglass. Also would shimming hinge-to-body bolt mess with any other "fit" areas (doors ect).
Also were are the hinge to body bolts at on this car?

66jack

When you open your hood, its the bolts that go through hinge on inner fender...

Its specific to Hood and won't affect doors...etc..

vetsvette2002

With the hood up and a nut and bolt preventing it from going back down:
Take a felt tip pen and outline the hinge at the wheel well.
Loosen the attaching bolts on either side of the hood.
Insert a shim (or a thick washer) under the rear mounting bolt.
Tighten bolts after making sure the hinge is still inside the outline you drew.
Do the same to the other side of hood.
Remove the nut & bolt from hood support and close hood
Check for hood alignment and fit.
Repeat as needed until desired fit is attained.

Piece of cake



DonO