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My "New" 1962 Barn find

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Old 10-29-2014, 04:10 PM
  #61  
jimh_1962
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I think I have an extra z-bar and some of the clutch linkage parts. I might have the clutch pedal (not sure). If not some parts for it.
Old 10-29-2014, 08:25 PM
  #62  
Westlotorn
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The valve train looks great, also looks like low mileage or very well cared for.
I hope the rest is equally nice.
Old 10-29-2014, 08:40 PM
  #63  
donbayers
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Great find. While intake off you might consider changing oil and then pre-oiling the engine through distributor access.

Assume you know what I'm talking about.
Old 10-30-2014, 01:04 AM
  #64  
Dale002
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Originally Posted by donbayers
Great find. While intake off you might consider changing oil and then pre-oiling the engine through distributor access.

Assume you know what I'm talking about.
Old 10-30-2014, 08:42 AM
  #65  
ragtop00
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Last night I removed the plugs and put PB Blaster in the cylinders and oiled up the rockers. I'm going to let it "marinate" for a day, put more lube in and then try to turn with a breaker bar this weekend. Since the rockers look so good and the inside of the intake looks great, I'm not going to remove the intake or dizzy. My problem is... SNOW is forecast for tomorrow and I still have 4 cars to put away before they put salt on the roads!
I am going to change oil as soon as I get it running.
Mike

PS We had our 6th grandchild yesterday!!
Old 10-30-2014, 06:26 PM
  #66  
Westlotorn
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The old oil has sat in there a long time it has absorbed moisture from the air and dust for many years. I agree with the post above. Change it and pre oil the engine like you would to start a brand new engine. I would go a step further. After draining the oil pour hot clean oil in. Just a couple quarts into the previously drained engine with the drain plug installed. Now drain this hot oil. It will help clean the pan of all the stuff that has settled for many years.
I had one that the old oil was so thick it did not want to drain well. I poured Diesel fuel down and flushed with it till it came out clean. Then poured some clean oil in and let it drain. Probably wasted $40 in supplies but felt better about what was inside afterwards and I knew I reduced the amount of sludge circulating in an engine I wanted to save.
Old 10-31-2014, 12:08 AM
  #67  
OldKarz
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Originally Posted by Westlotorn
The old oil has sat in there a long time it has absorbed moisture from the air and dust for many years. I agree with the post above. Change it and pre oil the engine like you would to start a brand new engine. I would go a step further. After draining the oil pour hot clean oil in. Just a couple quarts into the previously drained engine with the drain plug installed. Now drain this hot oil. It will help clean the pan of all the stuff that has settled for many years.
I had one that the old oil was so thick it did not want to drain well. I poured Diesel fuel down and flushed with it till it came out clean. Then poured some clean oil in and let it drain. Probably wasted $40 in supplies but felt better about what was inside afterwards and I knew I reduced the amount of sludge circulating in an engine I wanted to save.
Good advice!
Old 10-31-2014, 02:05 AM
  #68  
Westlotorn
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Congratulations on the new Grand Child. They are all exciting. I have #3 due in February.
Old 10-31-2014, 07:33 AM
  #69  
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Congratulation on the grandkid. I have three.
Old 10-31-2014, 10:24 AM
  #70  
ragtop00
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Thanks... Kids are cool! Good tip on the oil...
Mike
Old 11-01-2014, 08:38 AM
  #71  
65air_coupe
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I would never, ever, attempt to start a car that has been sitting any number of years without thoroughly flushing out all the cooling passages in the block, heads and intake.

I know I may be alone on this but I left my own car sit for years one time and was going to simply put fresh fuel in it and get it running again. But for whatever reason I pulled the thermostat housing off and one look inside the intake manifold convinced me that any attempt to get it running without flushing the cooling system would result in a clogged radiator and overheated engine. I had been running a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water and was stunned by what I found inside the block. It looked far worse than your carb picture!
Old 11-01-2014, 09:49 AM
  #72  
ragtop00
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Originally Posted by 65air_coupe
I would never, ever, attempt to start a car that has been sitting any number of years without thoroughly flushing out all the cooling passages in the block, heads and intake.

I know I may be alone on this but I left my own car sit for years one time and was going to simply put fresh fuel in it and get it running again. But for whatever reason I pulled the thermostat housing off and one look inside the intake manifold convinced me that any attempt to get it running without flushing the cooling system would result in a clogged radiator and overheated engine. I had been running a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water and was stunned by what I found inside the block. It looked far worse than your carb picture!
Thanks! The coolant is full and looks excellent but because it has a brand new radiator I am going to take your advice and flush the system. It would be a shame to clog it.
Mike
Old 11-01-2014, 11:01 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Westlotorn
The old oil has sat in there a long time it has absorbed moisture from the air and dust for many years. I agree with the post above. Change it and pre oil the engine like you would to start a brand new engine. I would go a step further. After draining the oil pour hot clean oil in. Just a couple quarts into the previously drained engine with the drain plug installed. Now drain this hot oil. It will help clean the pan of all the stuff that has settled for many years.
I had one that the old oil was so thick it did not want to drain well. I poured Diesel fuel down and flushed with it till it came out clean. Then poured some clean oil in and let it drain. Probably wasted $40 in supplies but felt better about what was inside afterwards and I knew I reduced the amount of sludge circulating in an engine I wanted to save.
Better yet the oil pan on this car comes off easy. I would drop the pan and lean it out . You wil also get a good looks at the inside for just the cost of gaskets.
Old 11-01-2014, 11:09 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by street62
Better yet the oil pan on this car comes off easy. I would drop the pan and lean it out . You wil also get a good looks at the inside for just the cost of gaskets.
Smart move. Dennis
Old 11-01-2014, 12:25 PM
  #75  
Brandons72vette
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Originally Posted by Dale002
Very nice condition for a barn find. My 62 was a storage find, but in no way as nice as yours. My had been taken apart in the early 70s and sat in different storage places over the years until 2012 when I came along.

Where was your '62 found? I might have photos of it and a '58 I found in a storage locker the same year.
Old 11-01-2014, 12:31 PM
  #76  
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Looks great, bet it will look even better as time progresses.
Old 11-11-2014, 11:59 AM
  #77  
ragtop00
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Great news from the weekend. I finished my 4 post lift install, AND with the help of a friend's flywheel turner, I freed the engine!!. AND scored a 62 frame!!
Mike

PS ...Thank you Veterans
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Old 11-11-2014, 12:37 PM
  #78  
AZDoug
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Originally Posted by ragtop00
Engine data, Block casting 3956318, engine pad VO224FB VIN 191223120 "191" was hard to read so it might be wrong.
Are you sure the block casting number isn't 3956618?

That would match with the engine code, flint motor, feb 24 (probably 1969), 235 hp 327 powerglide out of a pass car.

Doug
Old 11-11-2014, 12:59 PM
  #79  
ragtop00
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
Are you sure the block casting number isn't 3956618?

That would match with the engine code, flint motor, feb 24 (probably 1969), 235 hp 327 powerglide out of a pass car.

Doug
I bet you're right Doug. Thanks!
Mike
Old 11-11-2014, 01:24 PM
  #80  
Easy Rhino
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I'm going to enjoy this thread as it moves forward.


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