ragtop00

Yaaa Hoooo!!! It started and after a bunch of smoke out the exhaust from the oil we put in the cylinders it runs fine. Thanks for all your help and encouragement. I was about to give up and put it on Ebay but I guess I'm going to keep her around for a while. Now for the new master cylinder, go through the brakes, clean out the fuel tank and lines..and ... ... Drive it!!!
Mike

Westlotorn

Wow, runs fine, that is amazing after all those years.

vwtdi

Enjoying the thread, great news on the start up, keep us posted at every step of the process.

Revfan

Started it up and NO youtube video? C'mon man, its 2014!

ragtop00

Here you go...

JohnZ

That fuel filter is a fire waiting to happen, and the long rubber hose from it to the carb inlet is lying right on the hot exhaust crossover passage; not a good setup.

Revfan

Safety issues aside, that is pretty freakin' awesome! Congrats!

Keep the updates coming!!!!!!

MrPbody

EXCELLENT!!!
Glad to hear it fired up for you, and you're on the road to putting together a nice car.

Russ

ragtop00

Weekend update. I'm pretty sure I need a new tank and sender... y'all agree? I'll be mostly all new from gas cap to carb.
Mike

Westlotorn

I agree on the tank for sure. The car looks amazing for how long it sat. Nice Find.

forespeed

I have read your thread with much interest. I recently bought a 51 Chevy "Gasser" that had been in storage for 45 yrs. The interesting thing about this car is when the car was built in the mid to late 60's it received a 1962 Corvette driveline from a donor car. So far, I have found the rearend is casting 3789812 (62-64 posi) but I don't know the diameter of the ring gear yet. I'm not concerned about the ratio. If by chance this is a small gear or weak axles, I will R&R it and use a larger 57-64 diff. The car has the matching T10 four spd which I could keep or replace. The motor is 327, highly modified with a two four edlebrock cross ram (side by side) dual holleys. The motor does still have the generator and dual hump heads. Also a high voltage mallory coil, not sure about the distributor.
My interest in this car is to restore it to safe running condition and exhibit it at nostalgic drag race events. It will also be run down the strip occasionally. For my purpose, I can upgrade and run this driveline after some needed suspension upgrades or I could remove the entire drivetrain and replace it with period correct parts that are more HD and effective on the track.
In any case I noticed you were close and hoped if nothing else to gain some info on my current parts as I'm in the dark. My local vette shop says 62 327's were only 250hp then I read about the 340 hp cars in your thread. My block casting is 3959512.
My car is currently at the "American Gasser" shop here in Saginaw and many more details will be discovered as it is dismantled. Any information on your differential and T10 will be appreciated.

jimh_1962

For your carb you can make a new base then use the original top for it. It works well!





Also congrats!

ragtop00

Very cool Gasser! I will look at my diff over the weekend and let you know what numbers I find. Would you mind checking the vin stamp on your engine pad? My VIN ends with 11364. Also my engine has the 340hp GM intake and manual advance dual point distributor.
Thanks
Mike

93RubyRedCoupe

I am SO jealous. That is JUST the kind of car I would love to drag out of a barn. Black/red no less. Nice work. Keep the pics coming. I love it....ARA

forespeed

The engine ID pad is blank as I believe the block may have been decked at some point. That process will remove the stamped code from the factory. The good thing is if the casting number matches someones car, the factory stamp can be reproduced.
This motor build is pretty radical, I would not be surprised to find dome pistons when we take it down. Very rad cam and very difficult to turn over points to high compression.
We will see.
Norm

jimgessner

REGULAR Corvetteforum contributor TOM PARSONS says
''The original 512 casting is/was a 62-67 small journal 327 block.
LATER replacement bare blocks/short blocks were somewhat of a hybrid. That is, they had features of BOTH 67-earlier and 68-later blocks. This permitted using the block in a 67-earlier replacement application for engines that used a road draft tube and/or a fitting in the rear hole to permit plumbing a PCV valve.
For 68-later applications, the rear hole could be plugged and valve covers with holes and a twist-on oil cap could be used and the PCV valve plumbed into the valve cover.
I am somewhat familiar with this 512 block you have because I have one in one of my cars with a 77 casting date. NO PRODUCTION BLOCKS received the rear hole for crankcase ventilation beginning with 1968 vehicles-----------------they all used valve covers with holes.
Also, you mentioned the block was stamped with with a CE-------------------------that is a service replacement block, which means it was PROBABLY cast AFTER 1967 production engines. Therefore, IF, big IF, it was cast after 67, but had features to allow it to be compatable with 67-earlier cars (such as the rear hole for crankcase ventilation), then it would have the large journal crank bores and the different pad for a spin-on oil filter.
Now, regarding the 4-bolt mains. As I pointed out above, this would be a REPLACEMENT block, cast AFTER 1967. NO, I repeat, NO 4-bolt main blocks were used in production UNTIL the 69 models. I DO NOT KNOW of any authoritative documentation that confirms the manufacture of a 1968 4-bolt main production block. Thus, if no 4-bolt main production blocks were made in 68, then it is HIGHLY UNLIKELY that any replacement 4-bolt blocks were made in 68.
One thing that has NOT been provided by topls69 is a casting date. If the casting date indicates the block was cast AFTER Sept 1968, then it is possible it could be a factory 4-bolt block. Otherwise, as already pointed out, it could have easily been converted by a machine shop to 4-bolt.

Tom Parsons''

I have purchased a few of these back in the day from my friendly Chevrolet dealer for replacement engines. We were not into ''MATCHING NUMBERS '' in those days. If you look on the passenger side rear of the block opposite of the casting number, you will see the casting date. Those letter -numbers will tell you what year engine. Pull a valve cover, and read the casting numbers, and yes dates also. ONCE AGAIN, 50 YEARS OF HISTORY in 20 minutes or less. Isn't the internet great?

AZDoug

I believe those were over the counter or warranty replacement blocks/shortblocks, long blocks and never installed in cars from the factory.

The casting number indicates just from its sequence compared to other blocks, it was assigned by Chev engineering about 1968 +/-. If it was ever in a 1962 Corvette, it didn't start there.

Doug

jimgessner

YOU ARE CORRECT DOUG. Only used in over the counter. I heard some trucks got this engine as well.

ragtop00

New tank, sender, fill tube, vent, and fuel lines installed I'm going to put a little gas in the system to leak test and then it's on to the master cylinder. If it stays this warm around here, I might be driving it in a week or two!

Mike

Bluestripe67

Great work. The fuel tank transformation is really nice. Be careful with your weather wished. Dennis