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new lift installed!

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Old 10-24-2014, 12:38 AM
  #21  
JMG2
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Originally Posted by sshort67
I just installed the Bendpak narrow extra high 7,000 pound unit. I did order the drip trays and aluminum ramps per forum recommendations. The first week needed to jack up the front end of the 61 and wished I had ordered the jack option. How happy are you with the jacks?

Salesman said it would take two guys six hours to install. It took three hillbilly's 30 man hours to install. Counts redoing the cables once.
Very happy with the jacks .,.. although they are expensive. very convenient, makes doing brake work a snap.

Ceiling in the far bay is cathedral-- haven't measured it but over 20'. Also went with low profile rails that hug the wall and don't interfere with the lift-- lets me get the lift high enough to park the vette underneath WITH the hood open.

Last edited by JMG2; 10-24-2014 at 12:40 AM.
Old 10-24-2014, 10:00 AM
  #22  
Daren67
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Originally Posted by GILSWHO
That will work. I had the exact same height. raised the door track as high as I could get them. I have an '84 and a 67 convertible. They just make it. Both cars are about 51" high. Count the height of the ramps. About 4". You have to leave enough room to raise the upper car out of its locks, so that you can then bring it down. Also line the ramps that are above the car on the floor with a/c pipe insulation, so that you don't accidently knock yourself out as you get out. Speaking from experience !!. The insulation is foam and has a slit in it. It slides on and stays on.
Thank you, I was about to give up (and I cant afford 2 GT 40's). What lift did you buy? The research I did had 6" typically for the ramps. Would love to make my 2 car a 3 car garage.
Old 10-24-2014, 10:43 AM
  #23  
Frankie the Fink
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Slightly O/T but has anybody come up with a combo using the jack tray and bottle jacks (or anything else) that is really effective ? This image is off a popular tool vendor web site.....I'm not feeling good about lifting the car with that set up at all. As stated above I did one session with a similar setup and it was damn scary

Otherwise that tray is pretty much useless except for holding tools occasionally.
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Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 10-24-2014 at 10:58 AM.
Old 10-24-2014, 12:15 PM
  #24  
mrtexas
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Slightly O/T but has anybody come up with a combo using the jack tray and bottle jacks (or anything else) that is really effective ? This image is off a popular tool vendor web site.....I'm not feeling good about lifting the car with that set up at all. As stated above I did one session with a similar setup and it was damn scary

Otherwise that tray is pretty much useless except for holding tools occasionally.
I made one jack tray as pictured for bottle jacks and two that are level with the ramps so I could use a floor jack with those. I made them out of 1/4 inch steel plate. I feel safe with my setup.
Old 10-24-2014, 08:15 PM
  #25  
JMG2
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Originally Posted by mrtexas
I made one jack tray as pictured for bottle jacks and two that are level with the ramps so I could use a floor jack with those. I made them out of 1/4 inch steel plate. I feel safe with my setup.
The benefit of the jack tray is that it jacks up both sides at exactly the same time and rate, so you don't have to worry about imbalance. Well worth the piece of mind, in my opinion.
Old 10-24-2014, 08:21 PM
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Nice setup, and that Wildcat is the shiznit.
Old 10-24-2014, 09:44 PM
  #27  
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Someone mentioned the cable going slack and the dangers of that. I made some changes
to my lift to prevent the cables from coming off no matter how slack the cable gets.
I would have thought by now the companies that make these lifts would fix this problem.





Here you can see how loose the cables get when released.





I used a bolt with a hole drilled through for a cotter pin. I left enough room for the cable
to not touch anything, but there is not enough room for it to come off.





I bent flat bar into a "Z" shape for this spot. I used 2 bolts to secure it so that it wouldn't spin.





This is just a flat bar bent at a 90º angle with the original locking collar welded on to it.





Replace the locking collar with the new keeper you just made.





This is a better look at it.
Old 10-25-2014, 07:45 AM
  #28  
Frankie the Fink
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Nice, Come vacation this winter in Florida and do mine.

Yes, my tech came out to fix my slack problem and blithely explained that the pulleys had no 'keepers' on them. Why not ? To save $50 on metal and a little extra assembly ?

Pretty silly IMO.

They use massive overkill on the cable (mine is 14,000 lb strength), and double mechanical locks, but don't put keepers on the pulleys.
Old 10-30-2014, 02:42 PM
  #29  
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Now added an 80 gallon compressor--- now just need to get some air tools :-)



And to head off the comments, Yes I did leave it on the skid -- I don't want to bolt it down, and it tends to walk if it's sitting on bare concrete. I'm going to box out the skid so it looks neater though.
Old 10-30-2014, 03:05 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JMG2
And to head off the comments, Yes I did leave it on the skid -- I don't want to bolt it down, and it tends to walk if it's sitting on bare concrete. I'm going to box out the skid so it looks neater though.
I mounted mine on body mounts on concrete - hasn't moved a bit in 14 years.
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Old 10-30-2014, 03:13 PM
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left both on skids
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Old 10-30-2014, 05:29 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by GILSWHO
That will work. I had the exact same height. raised the door track as high as I could get them. I have an '84 and a 67 convertible. They just make it. Both cars are about 51" high. Count the height of the ramps. About 4". You have to leave enough room to raise the upper car out of its locks, so that you can then bring it down. Also line the ramps that are above the car on the floor with a/c pipe insulation, so that you don't accidently knock yourself out as you get out. Speaking from experience !!. The insulation is foam and has a slit in it. It slides on and stays on.
Great thought! I did mine that way two years ago for the safety of it! Al W.
Old 10-30-2014, 06:15 PM
  #33  
Mike Geary
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
I mounted mine on body mounts on concrete - hasn't moved a bit in 14 years.
Hockey pucks work as well.
Old 10-31-2014, 11:01 AM
  #34  
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KCJohn,

Great add on safety features to your lift!! Something I should consider but, frankly, I REALLY look over my lift before and after use. Regularly grease the inside columns as well as the pulleys all around. My unit is 14 years old. Very reliable and trouble free.

Awhile back there was a mishap with one of these lifts. Think it was a forum member in the C3 section. Apparently the pulley unscrewed from its position causing the cables to spin off and causing the car on top to fall/slide off.

The fix for this pulley unscrewing was to provide a section of bar stock and hardware with instructions to drill holes for the fasteners provided. When installed, the bar stock prevented any backing out of the bolts that secured the pulleys.

Here's a pic of my install on this back then







Jim
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Old 10-31-2014, 02:14 PM
  #35  
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The front passenger's side cable just snapped on my Eagle 9,000 lb lift. (As I was lifting the car) Three saftety locks held saving my 59. I'm convinced I lowered the lift too low releasing the cable from it's main pully. I will install safety bolts as suggested. Thanks 59 navy
Old 10-31-2014, 03:14 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 6T5RUSH
KCJohn,

Great add on safety features to your lift!! Something I should consider but, frankly, I REALLY look over my lift before and after use. Regularly grease the inside columns as well as the pulleys all around. My unit is 14 years old. Very reliable and trouble free.

Awhile back there was a mishap with one of these lifts. Think it was a forum member in the C3 section. Apparently the pulley unscrewed from its position causing the cables to spin off and causing the car on top to fall/slide off.

The fix for this pulley unscrewing was to provide a section of bar stock and hardware with instructions to drill holes for the fasteners provided. When installed, the bar stock prevented any backing out of the bolts that secured the pulleys.

Here's a pic of my install on this back then

Jim
In God We Trust!
If that bar stock is in between the two nuts to keep them from turning I think some "old school" aircraft safety wire and new nuts would have been the way to go...no bar stock needed. But, if it works ... it works...
Old 10-31-2014, 03:35 PM
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Mine is almost done...
Old 11-03-2014, 03:33 PM
  #38  
Stan's Customs
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Slightly O/T but has anybody come up with a combo using the jack tray and bottle jacks (or anything else) that is really effective ? This image is off a popular tool vendor web site.....I'm not feeling good about lifting the car with that set up at all. As stated above I did one session with a similar setup and it was damn scary

Otherwise that tray is pretty much useless except for holding tools occasionally.
How about air bag jacks...see John Z's post in this thread link...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-air-jack.html
Old 06-30-2015, 11:12 AM
  #39  
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I have been looking for an affordable jack solution for some time for my Bendpal HD9. I saw this rolling bridge tray and air jack at Mecum in Kissimmee from Advantage Lifts. Very nice people to deal with and they have quality products.

It has a large recess in the tray which the Bendpak tray lacks.

Rolling Tray costs $150, Air Jack $299







Originally Posted by Stan's Customs
How about air bag jacks...see John Z's post in this thread link...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-air-jack.html








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