nightynine

I have a 64 coupe and have just painted and clear coated but one side of car was shaded and I got a few runs .How do I make them go away without doing it all over again. Help needed

Nowhere Man

How bad are the runs. You could take a new razor blade and scrap it off the wet sand the rest

nightynine

More than I care to admit . Thanks I need all the help I can get. The other side looks great. I guess I was so afraid of orange peel.

jim lockwood

I'd be willing to spend a lot of time with a razor blade before I'd be willing to do a re-paint.

Shaving the paint with a blade is extremely tedious, but it isn't hard to do. If I can do it, anybody can.

Jim

csherman

Agree - razor blade
take a good quality sharp razor blade
bend it in a U shape as best as possible
scrape away the run - little at a time til flush
patience
wet sand
buff
Also - It is not a run - it is a vertical gravity indicator......

62vetteman

The website: refinishnetwork.com has a pictorial on removing runs using polyester putty. It's in their repair articles section. You can also go to youtube and type in:"how to remove runs in clear coat". A lot of videos using the razor blade method or the polyester putty method.

Roger Walling

Take a new razor blade and wrap masking tape to both ends and shave the run off.

Then apply tape to the painted surface near the run and sand with 600. This will protect the surrounding paint until you get it really close.

Then remove the tape and with a hard block and progressively finer paper, continue until it is gone. End up with 3000 grit and buff.

Lots of luck! If you have a lot of them, you are better to sand them off with a block (as above described) and 320 paper and then reapply the clear and re block with finer paper.

champs65

I had some serious CC runs on the right rear quarter of my 65. Razor bladed the runs off, sanded for eternity, buffed for the same, and I still can see "ghost runs" where they were. Almost looks like as the clear dried and had microscopic air bubbles throughout the runs, which is what shows now. Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000.

Going to have to re-do that quarter at some point.

Good luck to you!

Frankie the Fink

I had a nasty clear coat run on my '61 under the DS headlight bucket after the repaint. The painter did the razor blade/wet sand thing while I watched and it was undetectable after about 20 minutes effort. It does work....

Bill32

Has the clear coat been cut(sanded) & buffed yet?

You can get "run blockers" that work with a blade or wet/dry.

I use the blue plastic one, it's just OK but does take most of the run off. A bit easier than using 2 hands on the blade.

http://www.eastwood.com/motorguard-r...ocker-set.html

mrtexas

I have used these small blocks very successfully to remove runs. They are available at your local paint supplier in sandpaper grits like 1000 or 1500.

vettsplit 63

When I was buying all the stuff at the paint store to paint my 62, somehow the subject of clear coat 'runs' came up. The guy behind the counter, who also has put out some fantastic paint jobs told me that he shoots his paint jobs so that sometimes he gets runs. Not a big deal, and he prefers that to shooting to 'dry'. Razor blade method was what he recommended. He said he would much prefer one with a few runs, makes for much less finish work. I'm not a painter, but made sense to me.

Roger Walling

Yes, you will end up with that.

John McGraw

After you get the majority of the run cut away with a razor blade and are ready to move on to sanding, use a small aluminum block wrapped with 600 grit. The smaller the block the better. I have a couple of blocks that are 1" X 1.5 ". It you do not use a hard block, you will sand around the run and break through the clearcoat. The idea is to only sand off the top of the run, and a metal block is just the ticket to do that without cutting around the run. I also have several little vixen files mounted on blocks, that will just file the high spot. They call these "nib files" and most body supply stores carry them.


Regards, John McGraw

nightynine

Thanks to all info . I had to recoat clear on one quarter and seams to blend ok ? This is ok right? Just to do a small section ?

nightynine

Thanks to all help. I did recoat cc on one quarter. and it seems to be ok ? It is ok to do a small section ? It seemed to blend ok ? Will it change the way it looks when I get it outside ? As you can tell I am new to this. the last car I painted was about 30 years ago before I heard of bc/cc

alexandervdr

I got a basic car paint training. What I remember is that runs can have micro gas bubbles because of the excess heath (from the 2K hardening process) generated in thicker layers

MrPbody

Did someone call for a run expert? I resemble that remark. mostly at creating, but somewhat at removing them also

What you don't want to do, at all cost, is sand or scrape through the clear and get into the base coat. at that point you'll also be respraying the base coat in that panel.
I've repaired some pretty extensive "flow indicators" with a razor blade, and that's my preferred method. there are several u-tube videos on the proper way to do this. it's actually very easy and effective.
Big runs in the clear do often contain what's known as solvent pop. the escaping solvents, as the clear dries, get trapped under a skinned over layer of the clear. most will break through to the surface, causing a crater in the surface, but some will remain trapped in the run. when the run gets removed, some of these micro-pockets may remain, and make it look slightly opaque. depending on where the run is, it may or may not be a big deal. usually that's not a problem except on the really high end show cars.
scrape with a new razor blade, then finish with a piece of 1500 - 2000 wet paper and buff. it's always worth a try before you decide if you want to respray or not.

nightynine

What should I use for Buffing ? I have a Dewalt ,But not sure what to use or what process to follow on a corvette. Thanks for every ones help. There is a lot to learn ! I have used a rubber pad and just used the corner with 400 paper and took most of it out. I need to see videos before I try the razor. It scares me that I might gouge it . I do not want a trailer Queen. I want to drive it.

Roger Walling

Clear coat should not be blended.
This not to say that it is not done by many a painter.

Clear coat will not reflow into the coat under it and should cover the entire panel from seam to seam.

There are materials called "blending solvents" that allow you to blend it, but in time the blended edge will lose contact with the base coat and begin to flake. At that time, you will have to sand with about 3000 grit paper and rebuff the edge.