Opinions Wanted: C2 Suspension Upgrade
#21
Melting Slicks
I am thinking of changing out the shocks, rear spring, and front sway bar bushings etc to improve the ride and handling.
Thinking of the best bang for the buck, I am thinking about the rear spring and whether to go with a composite VBP. But I don't know whether 330 or 360lbs is best. I will not be racing or auto crossing but prefer a firm ride and dislike a bouncing ride. If I go composite, the shocks need to match. Any suggestions of a pairing of spring and shocks?
Tom
Thinking of the best bang for the buck, I am thinking about the rear spring and whether to go with a composite VBP. But I don't know whether 330 or 360lbs is best. I will not be racing or auto crossing but prefer a firm ride and dislike a bouncing ride. If I go composite, the shocks need to match. Any suggestions of a pairing of spring and shocks?
Tom
Many times improve the ride and improve the handling don't work together all that well.
Example: the 330 will give you a firmer ride, the 360 MAY give you a teeth jarring ride over every little pavement crack. There's a big difference between a firm ride and a harsh ride.
"Bouncy" is shocks, most people think the shocks on their cars are OK but don't realize that they starting to wear at 5,000 miles and have lost a lot at 10,000 miles (the inexpensive ones anyway).
Changing one or 2 things on the car like front springs or a rear swaybar will do more to screw up the car than improve it.
John Z.'s correct, a rear swaybar can cause snap oversteer on a smallblock (along with the bumpsteer problem on the stock C2 rear).
The only way to improve the handling is to go with a complete, proven package- front & rear springs, shocks and swaybars (on the rear, only if the bumpsteer has been corrected (what some of the Guldstrand kits address).
Doing it peacemeal involves a lot of testing and possible frustration.
BADBIRD posted a great comment:
"The springs need to be balanced with appropriate shock absorbers to set the ride and handling to your preference(s). I used SPAX adjustable shocks with great results. "
His choice of spring rates may work for you, may not but he's dead on about adjustable shocks.
If you're looking at 2 spring rates for one end of the car, You'll probably be happier with the lower spring rate (though more that stock) and an adjustable shock that you can firm up the ride with when you want. Same goes with front sway bar, an adjustable one will allow you to tweek the ride.
On the bushings, poly can squeak when brand new if installed incorrectly but work well for handling . They can make the pavement bumps more noticeable.
Staying with rubber will be fine though for a street driver.
AND, before you put anything on the car, if your current bushings are cracked/worn, replace every one of them. Then put on the suspension components.
Good Luck
Quick comment on track driving: You can take your 64 out on the track and have some safe fun. It's a better place to evaluate your new suspension than on a country road with trees 3 feet off the corner.
I've been on the track with a few C2 drivers, they has a blast. I'm a SCCA licensed driving instructor (18 years).
You don't need to hire a driving coach, you can attend a SCCA PDX (Performance Driving Experience) for as little as $250 for the day with classroom instruction and a licensed instructor with you in the car.
Or a Hooked on Driving event, same thing but slightly more money.
#22
Team Owner
yes I like Pcars also!
PS and we aren't rich. We are a family group of enthusiast that instead of going and getting tattoos or other frill expenditures, or spending on vices like Hookers and stuff-- I buy performance parts and goodies since getting my first Driver's License. Well wait, I do own Hookers! I have them hanging on a few of our cars! Thus get a paycheck, to the Speed Shops I go for over 35 years sometimes to the dissatisfaction of the significant other!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 10-29-2014 at 11:53 PM.
#23
Team Owner
you should know, i never stay on topic!
Wow - the OP must have gone comatose by now. He was just asking about some suspension mods (most of which I also don't think he needs) for better ride/handling. Specifically states he won't be racing or auto-crossing.
Now we are talking serious track days, Porsche comparisons, snooty car event crowds, driving coaches, etc..
Gotta luv it...
Now we are talking serious track days, Porsche comparisons, snooty car event crowds, driving coaches, etc..
Gotta luv it...
But isn't that what is interesting about the forums!
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
Our Passion....
I've enjoyed all the contributions to this thread.
I recently put a set of radials on the car so that was already done.
Rear sway bar is out of the picture.
Since all the bushings are relatively new and are rubber, all in good shape, I decided to stick with the rubber and not change anything to poly. I also didn't want to have some rubber and some poly combination since I wasn't planning to do ALL the bushings on the car.
The car sits right in the rear and steel spring is slightly arched. So after looking at the very tight space the exhaust pipe has created as it runs by the spring I decided not to replace the spring but to go with a good set of shocks. I would have had to play with the exhaust and/or insulate the exhaust to protect the fiberglass spring. My decision was also impacted by the fact that when I removed the passenger side rear shock it was weak on the rebound which I suspected based on its reaction over bumps. I think a higher quality gas shock would help a lot.
In the end, I added new WW Cooper radials 205-75 (not yet on the car at time of this photo) to keep the car looking relatively stock and will add the Bilsteins HDs.
My wife tells me that when I want to have more fun that I should take #15 out for a ride.....and quit messing with her car!
Thank you all again for sharing your knowledge and insights.
Tom
I recently put a set of radials on the car so that was already done.
Rear sway bar is out of the picture.
Since all the bushings are relatively new and are rubber, all in good shape, I decided to stick with the rubber and not change anything to poly. I also didn't want to have some rubber and some poly combination since I wasn't planning to do ALL the bushings on the car.
The car sits right in the rear and steel spring is slightly arched. So after looking at the very tight space the exhaust pipe has created as it runs by the spring I decided not to replace the spring but to go with a good set of shocks. I would have had to play with the exhaust and/or insulate the exhaust to protect the fiberglass spring. My decision was also impacted by the fact that when I removed the passenger side rear shock it was weak on the rebound which I suspected based on its reaction over bumps. I think a higher quality gas shock would help a lot.
In the end, I added new WW Cooper radials 205-75 (not yet on the car at time of this photo) to keep the car looking relatively stock and will add the Bilsteins HDs.
My wife tells me that when I want to have more fun that I should take #15 out for a ride.....and quit messing with her car!
Thank you all again for sharing your knowledge and insights.
Tom
Last edited by Midyrman; 10-30-2014 at 05:49 PM.
#25
Drifting
Leave it stock and remove the cushions between the frame body mounts and body to lower the center of gravity along with a 70ish strut rod bracket.
Add a heavier front sway bar.
Add a heavier front sway bar.
#26
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 1,200
Received 61 Likes
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C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Also when I was going to events-- I was treated like the seed of Chucky or something with our loud modified cars by my fellow Corvette Owners. At another event, I had to park it in the street as per the Vette Set Club one time, at an old Champion Chevrolet show because they had a projected attendance expectation that would fill the lot by show quality cars.
#27
Team Owner
That Champion show was along time ago!
I remember when they were at Champion. I never joined, but they moved from Champion to Martin, and are now at WIN Chevrolet. They had their show at Ruby's in Redondo Beach this summer and it was nice, but smaller than back in the day. Too bad they didn't appreciate your car.
Then It was also when guys were ditching their flares, flames, pinstriping, aftermarket rims etc. The movement was taking them back to stock and our cars had all of the above things that would lead to them wanting to perform an exorcism on our cars. I have been around the hobby so long, I am thinking I am the only one who remembers the divide in our hobby. I have never attended a show at Martin or Win!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 10-31-2014 at 12:55 AM.
#28
I've enjoyed all the contributions to this thread.
I recently put a set of radials on the car so that was already done.
Rear sway bar is out of the picture.
Since all the bushings are relatively new and are rubber, all in good shape, I decided to stick with the rubber and not change anything to poly. I also didn't want to have some rubber and some poly combination since I wasn't planning to do ALL the bushings on the car.
The car sits right in the rear and steel spring is slightly arched. So after looking at the very tight space the exhaust pipe has created as it runs by the spring I decided not to replace the spring but to go with a good set of shocks. I would have had to play with the exhaust and/or insulate the exhaust to protect the fiberglass spring. My decision was also impacted by the fact that when I removed the passenger side rear shock it was weak on the rebound which I suspected based on its reaction over bumps. I think a higher quality gas shock would help a lot.
In the end, I added new WW Cooper radials 205-75 (not yet on the car at time of this photo) to keep the car looking relatively stock and will add the Bilsteins HDs.
My wife tells me that when I want to have more fun that I should take #15 out for a ride.....and quit messing with her car!
Thank you all again for sharing your knowledge and insights.
Tom
I recently put a set of radials on the car so that was already done.
Rear sway bar is out of the picture.
Since all the bushings are relatively new and are rubber, all in good shape, I decided to stick with the rubber and not change anything to poly. I also didn't want to have some rubber and some poly combination since I wasn't planning to do ALL the bushings on the car.
The car sits right in the rear and steel spring is slightly arched. So after looking at the very tight space the exhaust pipe has created as it runs by the spring I decided not to replace the spring but to go with a good set of shocks. I would have had to play with the exhaust and/or insulate the exhaust to protect the fiberglass spring. My decision was also impacted by the fact that when I removed the passenger side rear shock it was weak on the rebound which I suspected based on its reaction over bumps. I think a higher quality gas shock would help a lot.
In the end, I added new WW Cooper radials 205-75 (not yet on the car at time of this photo) to keep the car looking relatively stock and will add the Bilsteins HDs.
My wife tells me that when I want to have more fun that I should take #15 out for a ride.....and quit messing with her car!
Thank you all again for sharing your knowledge and insights.
Tom
I of course carry a full line of Corvette suspension components, but for what you are looking for I think our Ridetech Q Series shocks would be the best bang for your buck. It continually amazes me what a nice set of adjustable shocks can do for you. Our shocks do have a 1,000,001 mile warranty as well.
http://www.ridetech.com/store/1963-1...ck-system.html