1966 A-Frame Dust Seal installation
#2
Burning Brakes
#3
Melting Slicks
Here is a link to an article by Dave Zuberer you might find helpful.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...ingstaples.pdf
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...ingstaples.pdf
#4
Melting Slicks
Tape new shields in place. Drill holes in shields using the existing holes in fiberglass to locate. (Drill from the wheel well side) Don't use the stainless staples that come with the shields, make your own from a spool of steel wire, (something softer) bend them to size with needle nose, insert from inside of engine compartment and fold over in the wheel well. BTW, it's much easier if the engine is out.
Guys, is there an actual tool to use the stainless steel staples that are supplied? Not to highjack this, but am doing the same thing as the OP and would like to use these staples.
#5
Burning Brakes
No produced tool that I'm aware of. Remember that the original staples were not stainless and are black after the engine compartment is blacked out. So the bare metal does not show. Plus if you have your car judged, most judges check the staples with a magnet to insure they are not magnetic.
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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Forget the hard stainless ones - make your own with a pair of pliers and a blister-pack roll of 16-ga. steel wire (hardware store item).
#7
Burning Brakes
Thomas
#8
Melting Slicks
Guys still sticking my nose in the OP's post: So I took my old rubber guards off today, pulled and cleaned up the inner fenders are under with some mineral spirits, and then some acetone. I did as suggested and bought a roll of 16 gauge wire and I see how much easier it will be to use this. My questions are: Was a sealing adhesive used with these originally (looks like no...)? Also, what type of under fender coating is used on the exterior part (not the flap, but the fender)....and is it available in a can?