When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Originally Posted by 66TexVette
BTW, on another note, if you are still listening, could you tell me how to get a picture of my car to post up on my avatar?
I had a problem too and got someone at work to help out. I had to resize the picture. Perhaps this link will help, if not I would go to the help section here in the forum or PM a mod perhaps vettebuyer6369 or pewter99. They will help you.
TKO 600 is a good way to go, it will bolt to the stock bellhousing but you will have to change the clutch disc to fine spline. I too would advise pulling the engine to install it. They make a stock appearing shift , but no way to use the original one, it's a completely diff shift mechanism. The trans does however fit the stock tunnel with NO cutting. I bought the one with the .82 5th gear and have 3.70 rear, I didn't want the big drop into 5th. Good luck, do your homework and have fun with it ! Pops
I'm going to add another vote for the LGT700. Easy to search online for vendors (like Walden Speed Shop) advertising a short two week wait. I bought mine badged as an SS700 from Keisler, mated with a McLeod RST twin disc and a 3.70 rearend. There is NO cutting needed and it's a rock solid unit to easily take my 503 lb/ft of torque.
Tried to post a picture of it just now but that's way too much leisure time to spend.
Still going to give kudos to Jeff and Ben at SilverSportTrans for the continued service after Keisler dropped out. Just wish you guys had the 700 in your lineup!
I too have what is termed the LGT700 (Keisler SS700). That 700 number denotes the amount of torque it's built to take. Mine's mated to a lowly 307 ft. lbs of torque at the tire small block 327 with approx. 300 horse at the tire. Let's just say I've got room to grow.
Mine's mated to a 3.73:1 posi and mine is the close ratio version.
Thank you, Frank (Crunch), for your very helpful response. Wow, so much great info to process! I have seen the TKO 600 discussed a little bit on the forum lately. I appreciate your recommendation. I will absolutely check this tranny out. Is American Powertrain & Hurst Driveline distributors of the TKO's?
A very large part of my final decision will hinge on a non invasive (no cutting, etc) mating to the engine. Call me ****, but she is a matching # after all, and this (no invading surgery) is my guiding, "mission statement" bottom line.
Your explanation of the different final gear ratios was enlightening to me. I had seen the different final ratios on tranny websites like LGT, but did not know how to process and compare them. You cleared that fog up for me as well, although I need to apply the difference in ratio drops to my 3.55 rear, but it looks like the .8's final ratios are preferable to the .6's. Could you tell me how my 3.55 would respond to those two final ratios in approximate RPM's at 70 MPH?
Your honesty regarding prices expecting to pay is also very helpful for me, as I begin to shop and compare all the recommendations so generously provided by the C2 bro's here on the forum. LGT, TKO, RS?
Thanks for your time with me on this thread, Frank.
PS, I also have a 9 yr old Yellow Lab that I love dearly. Greatest of friends for a man.
Randy
Randy,
That yellow dog "Gracie" is a great hunting companion and loves to ride shotgun.
Yes, Hurst and American Powertrain are distributors and they sell complete kits to make the swap easier. Some guys gather up the parts on their own to help save money so to each his own there.
The websites for Hurst and American Powertrain have a "speed analyzer" which will calculate your final rpms, with considerations for your rear gear, tire size and type of transmission you choose...overall, your 3:55 gear will be fine. Take a look, it will really simplify the discussion and help pin point what trans will best suit your application and your driving style. The trick to these cars is having the drivetrain "match"...you have a strong motor, with the right 5speed and the 3:55s, you will have something that is an absolute joy to drive. It will torch the tires and not turn 3500rpms while cruising on the highway...best of both worlds.
BTW: No cutting required to get the TKO600 to fit...maybe some cussing but no cutting.
I have a 66 conv. that I got in 1967. It's an all original, unrestored, except I did the bogeson steering and the 5-speed, saved all the old parts. I drive about 4000 miles a year, mostly with a group of like minded mid-year owners. So do what you want to it and drive the dog ___ out of it! Check my forum name. Jerry
P.S. we meet up with ChattanoogaJSB in Sept.,and took us on short but wild tour of Chattanooga.
.
6T5Rush, You have the 300 HP small block and .68 5th gear, are you happy with the power in 5th? I like your set up. Pretty cool to cruise 80 mph at 2,600 RPM. Even modern cars are doggy in overdrive, my son has a 99 Vette with the 6 speed and runs a verified 638 HP at the rear wheel.
( Twin Turbo's help ). I have driven this and it is doggy in overdrive but will burn the rear tires in 4th gear just by accelerating hard and his tires are about 7 inches wider than ours.
Your 700 sounds like a really nice trans choice.
Yes, it IS the right choice for my setup. She's really responsive slipping it into 5th gear, 42-45 mph. Once she's above 1,200 r's, you can go into 5th gear and just drive out. No chugging or lugging. The close ratio box mated to the 3.73:1 rear gears is a good marriage here. Visually, my small block mimics a 365 hp. If I'm going 45 mph in 5th and I want to pass someone, just pulling it into 4th gear gets her to jump. No tire shredder, but very responsive.
From a topic I started back in February of 2012, here is an excerpt in my thought process which led me to buying the close ratio box:
"Although my present setup is using the factory wide ratio '65 Muncie that has a 2.56:1 1st gear coupled to a 3.73:1 posi. I do like the jump but cruising @ 65 or better is just a big buzz...she sure is spinnin' up there. I've read enough here about the ideal index of 10 or more (achieved by multiplying the 1st gear ratio to your rear axle ratio). Right now she's right at 9.55.
Being a wide ratio tranny my drops in gears as I go through them are:
1st (2.56) to 2nd (1.91) is 25.39%
2nd (1.91) to 3rd (1.48) is 22.51%
3rd (1.48) to 4th (1.00) is 32.43% (this is the down side of my factory wide ratio)
Now, looking at the SS700 Series, Keisler Wide Ratio reflects the following % drop between gears:
1st (2.97) to 2nd (2.07) is 30.30%
2nd (2.07) to 3rd (1.43) is 30.92%
3rd (1.43) to 4th (1.00) is 30.07%
4th (1.00) to 5th (.68) is 32.00%
Finally here is the SS700 Series with the Keisler Close Ratio reflecting the following % drop between gears:
1st (2.66) to 2nd (1.78) is 33.08%
2nd (1.78) to 3rd (1.30) is 26.97%
3rd (1.30) to 4th (1.00) is 23.08%
4th (1.00) to 5th (.68) is 32.00%
I lean towards having that 2.66 ratio in 1st gear on the Close Ratio SS700. The index I spoke of (1st gear x the posi) would be 9.92 vs the Wide Ratio SS700 (1st gear x the posi) of 11.07 (more of a stump puller...useless...as some of you commented with your TKO 600 1st gear experience.
Also my 3rd to 4th gear in my present setup (Muncie wide ratio) shows a 32.43% drop pretty much mirrors the 4th to 5th gear drop in either of the SS700 Series Close or Wide Ratio...32.00% drop."
Yes, this was the right way to go in my combination and driving style.
I had a problem too and got someone at work to help out. I had to resize the picture. Perhaps this link will help, if not I would go to the help section here in the forum or PM a mod perhaps vettebuyer6369 or pewter99. They will help you.
Thanks, dahogan, for the links. I am a tech dummy, but will follow the steps outlined and work on it this weekend. Hopefully, I will have a temporary pic of my girl up there soon, until I can re-post one with a more aesthetic background when I get her home from the hospital.
I have a 66 conv. that I got in 1967. It's an all original, unrestored, except I did the bogeson steering and the 5-speed, saved all the old parts. I drive about 4000 miles a year, mostly with a group of like minded mid-year owners. So do what you want to it and drive the dog ___ out of it! Check my forum name. Jerry
P.S. we meet up with ChattanoogaJSB in Sept.,and took us on short but wild tour of Chattanooga.
.
Hi Jerry,
Guess you were surprised to find out you had an evil twin
Sorry for mirroring your handle, but I just joined the forum in Sept and was trying to find one that wasn't already taken. I will attempt to change mine to something else if it bothers you.
Man, are you fortunate to have had your original girl your whole life! I really envy you.
I just got my '66 after 45 years. I had wanted her twin sister back in 1969 as a High School senior as a graduation present, but the owner would not sell it to my Dad for me out of fear for my safety, being only 17 years old at the time. I guess I just got distracted with life and have now finally gotten some of my priorities straight realizing time is now short for me.
Rest assured, we are going to dance passionately and often in the days I have left, to make up for all those lost years.
Maybe we could get together some time and cruise. I live in Austin and would like that - to have some company, hear your story, live vicariously through you for all my lost time.
BTW, ChattanoogaJSB has responded very kindly and supportive to me regarding my performed upgrades and query on a 5 sped tranny. He seems like guy.
Randy
Last edited by 66TexVette; 11-22-2014 at 11:10 AM.
No, your handle is just find with me, check into Lone star Corvette Club's show at the race track or Good Guys for a road trip to Dallas area, let me know.
I'm going to add another vote for the LGT700. Easy to search online for vendors (like Walden Speed Shop) advertising a short two week wait. I bought mine badged as an SS700 from Keisler, mated with a McLeod RST twin disc and a 3.70 rearend. There is NO cutting needed and it's a rock solid unit to easily take my 503 lb/ft of torque.
Tried to post a picture of it just now but that's way too much leisure time to spend.
Still going to give kudos to Jeff and Ben at SilverSportTrans for the continued service after Keisler dropped out. Just wish you guys had the 700 in your lineup!
Thank you, Silvertone, for your response and recommendation. I really like the look of the LGT700, and the fact that NO cutting is needed! Jim sent pictures below to help.
I have the original BB 425 and a 3:55 rear. I upgraded with a new Centerforce dual clutch (not sure on exact model) and new, more durable bellhousing. Original bellhousing evidently was too small to hold the new Centerforce clutch plates/flywheel, according to my mech.
Is my setup a good compatible mating to the LGT 700 in your experience and opinion? Thanks again.
I too have what is termed the LGT700 (Keisler SS700). That 700 number denotes the amount of torque it's built to take. Mine's mated to a lowly 307 ft. lbs of torque at the tire small block 327 with approx. 300 horse at the tire. Let's just say I've got room to grow.
Mine's mated to a 3.73:1 posi and mine is the close ratio version.
Wow, Jim, thanks for the pics of the LGT 700 in your girl, helping Silverstone and me out!
It really does help me to have visuals on these things. I also like the look of their shift pattern plate & replacement shifter, pretty short, but exactly as original other than that, as far as I could tell. I also like the no notichiness you said between 2 & 3, can't stand that feeling.
Thank you for your experienced recommendation. I am leaning toward the LGT 700 vs the TKO 600 at this point, but it is still early in my shopping mode. No tunnel or cross member cutting with the LGT 700, right? Also very important to me, engine matching #.
Jim, would you please look at my response to Silverstone in my post above, and tell me what you think about my existing config mating to the LGT 700. I am too lazy to keep on listing my existing components BB 425, .... each time I respond to all you generous contributors in my ever increasing thread.
I also need recommendations on which final drive is best for me, .6's or .8's? I really like the lower rpm's at high speed, but don't like sluggish responses when I step on it in OD. Afraid to downshift at upper speeds w/out braking down first. Probably can't have it both ways, huh?
Thanks again, Jim for your personal interest and time in helping me with my 5 spd decision.
IN GOD WE TRUST!
Randy
PS, I have GOT to figure out how to post an avatar pic this weekend. My girl has no identity here without one!
Wow, Jim, thanks for the pics of the LGT 700 in your girl, helping Silverstone and me out!
It really does help me to have visuals on these things. I also like the look of their shift pattern plate & replacement shifter, pretty short, but exactly as original other than that, as far as I could tell. I also like the no notichiness you said between 2 & 3, can't stand that feeling.
Thank you for your experienced recommendation. I am leaning toward the LGT 700 vs the TKO 600 at this point, but it is still early in my shopping mode. No tunnel or cross member cutting with the LGT 700, right? Also very important to me, engine matching #.
Jim, would you please look at my response to Silverstone in my post above, and tell me what you think about my existing config mating to the LGT 700. I am too lazy to keep on listing my existing components BB 425, .... each time I respond to all you generous contributors in my ever increasing thread.
I also need recommendations on which final drive is best for me, .6's or .8's? I really like the lower rpm's at high speed, but don't like sluggish responses when I step on it in OD. Afraid to downshift at upper speeds w/out braking down first. Probably can't have it both ways, huh?
Thanks again, Jim for your personal interest and time in helping me with my 5 spd decision.
IN GOD WE TRUST!
Randy
PS, I have GOT to figure out how to post an avatar pic this weekend. My girl has no identity here without one!
Just testing to see if I got my avatar and signature to stick.
Pic is before my test drives prior to purchase. Will post a pic with a more aesthetic background when I get her home from the hospital soon. She now has bolt on K-H repro KO's.
Don't know what kind of hubcaps those are that the previous owners put on her feet, no spinners, just rounded hubs.
I'm no expert on this but everything I've read about the big blocks is they have TORQUE. Understand, this indexing seems to be a widely accepted method of determining whether your mated gears are overkill or a dog. With your 3.55:1 rr gears and the close ratio version of the LGT700 having a 1st gear of 2.68, your index would be 9.51....2.68 x 3.55...(ideal is 10.0). With the wide ratio version (if offered), the index jumps to nearly 11.0 (10.54)...2.97 x 3.55. That would be overkill.
I've always felt the ideal rear gears would be 3.55:1. Others will chime in here and, hopefully, give their insight as well.
If you do go the TKO route, you do want to know what your options are for your 1st gear ratios.
Again, I do think the big block has the edge on torque allowing you to drive out easier.
One additional thought, some folks with the big block and the overdrive .6 complained that the r's just fell too much to give benefit under 70 mph. They felt an .8 overdrive would have suited them better to utilize that overdrive gear in lower speeds.
My .02.
Good luck in your hunt/decision on this.
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
Originally Posted by 66TexVette
Thank you, Silvertone, for your response and recommendation. I really like the look of the LGT700, and the fact that NO cutting is needed! Jim sent pictures below to help.
I have the original BB 425 and a 3:55 rear. I upgraded with a new Centerforce dual clutch (not sure on exact model) and new, more durable bellhousing. Original bellhousing evidently was too small to hold the new Centerforce clutch plates/flywheel, according to my mech.
Is my setup a good compatible mating to the LGT 700 in your experience and opinion? Thanks again.
To install these transmission, pull the motor. Then marry the engine trans as a unit before reinstalling with the new transmission. With the TKO, because of the rectangular shape of the tranny, it will be tight, tight. With the LGT700, which has a more rounded case, it will be tight. Both new transmissions are longer than the Muncie. requiring a new drive shaft as well. All of this will be included in the kit you buy.
The kit you buy should include a set of what I call hockey pucks to shim the floor at the trans cross member. Over the years all these cars exhibit some sag there. Doing this will aid in eliminating vibrations once installed.
To install these transmission, pull the motor. Then marry the engine trans as a unit before reinstalling with the new transmission. With the TKO, because of the rectangular shape of the tranny, it will be tight, tight. With the LGT700, which has a more rounded case, it will be tight. Both new transmissions are longer than the Muncie. requiring a new drive shaft as well. All of this will be included in the kit you buy.
The kit you buy should include a set of what I call hockey pucks to shim the floor at the trans cross member. Over the years all these cars exhibit some sag there. Doing this will aid in eliminating vibrations once installed.
Jim
In God We Trust!
Thanks again, Jim, for your advice and heads up on what to expect with the LGT 700 kit for installation. I like the look of the LGT housing over the TKO, and it is not as tight as a fit as the TKO, which is good.
So, with the .8 OD, I will have more pick up power at speed than the .6 OD? Less sluggish than the .6 under 70 MPH, but higher RPM's over 70 MPH?
Do you have any idea what kind of RPM's the .8 will turn at highway cruising speeds of 70-80 MPH? I really like the look of your .68 tach 80 MPH!
Sorry, I'm just trying to quantify the trade off's between the 2 OD ratios.
I know my 3:55 & your 3:73 will RPM respond differently with the 2 OD ratios, but I am not sure what those differences are between the 2 rear ends performance wise.
You are a patient man to stay with me on this!
Last edited by 66TexVette; 11-22-2014 at 04:51 PM.
Reason: typo
If you want instant throttle response in 5th gear go with the .8 ratio.
If you want better MPG and a quieter cruise go with the .64 or .68 ratio.
If I want performance I would not be in 5th gear, I would save 5th for getting from point A to point B on the long hauls and take the better MPG along the way but that is my choice. Each of us have wants and ideas as to what makes us happy.
I bought the .64 overdrive and I am still debating switching from my current 3.7 rear gear to a 3.36 with a small block, it would not be a drag strip combo but a good cruiser.
My 1st is 2.95. 2.95 1st x 3.36 rear = 9.96 launch ratio. They say 10 is the goal so that hits pretty close and it would be 1900 RPM at 70 MPH. Might be too tall.
11-21-2014, 10:53 AM
I guess I just got distracted with life and have now finally gotten some of my priorities straight realizing time is now short for me.
guy. 
