APV

Hello, I'm putting my restored dash panel back into dash. I can't seem to get the line torqued to get a seal on the oil line. I'm at the point of taking the panel back out and try to get it compressed out of the car. Is it possible that I will need a new oil pressure gauge? My car is a 1966 327/300
Thank you,
Al

Powershift

The oil line should be a (copper) plated steel line. The end fitting to the gage is special and not an ordinary compression fitting. I think LICS and Paragon (and probably others) sell this connection.

Pictures and discussion etc. should be in the archives if you check.

Larry

rongold

If your oil line fitting does not look like the fitting on this oil line,



You will never get it to seal. Chevrolet used their own design fittings. Like powershift said, they are available from many forum vendors. Make sure you hold the square fitting on the gauge with a wrench when you tighten the hex fitting on the line.

APV

Thank you for advice Larry, I read all the threads about the pressure line. I had already purchased a copper replacement line. Well, you scared me into ordering the Paragon steel/copper plated line. What end should I hook up first, Gauge or block. I getting real good at taking out and installing the gauge panel. Thank you,
Al

APV

The copper line that I tried to use has the correct fittings but I could not get it to compress on the gauge end. I have now ordered the steel/ copper line from Paragon as suggested by Larry.
Thank you Ron,
Al

66RBS

Don't mean to hijack your thread, but I have the copper line that installed 10 years ago. Is there a functional reason I should change to the copper plated steel line?

Randy

JohnZ

The copper line can "work-harden" with vibration and eventually fatigue-fracture; that's why GM didn't use it.

Powershift

I (NCRS) judged a 1966 this weekend that had a poly or nylon small diameter oil line. I told the owner that this was an accident waiting to happen: either oil loss to the engine or a oily mess inside the cabin when it finally breaks.

Not certain that he heard me.

Larry

DZVette

Some additional info attached.
Dave Z

Mike67nv

Several years ago, I was working around my oil line and broke the tubing at the fitting to the block. I was in a pinch to get my car back on the road and I found this fitting at my local Napa Auto Parts store. It slightly different from the original but it worked until I could get a new line and fittings from Paragon.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...0X2_0080518851

Robert Lewis

Will someone kindly tell me how to get the nut off the oil line at the gauge? It can't be reached with a flare nut wrench - or any other wrench - because of the angle. There isn't enough room to hold the square nut on the gauge while attempting to turn the oil line nut, and try as I might, I can't get the nut to budge with needle-nose ViseGrips.

Anyone know a trick that will work?

FFBillysCor

Use a small open end wrench- hopefully you have not rounded off the nut. It is certainly a pain to work on this while dash is in place, but can be done. Have cushion for your back and good light that will not blind you. Turn the wrench the correct way in small increments, have patience and take a break if you get flustered. Be prepared for the possibility of an oil drip that may zero in on your eye...have a clean rag at the ready. Good luck, hope it works. Best...

APV

I took my dash out 6 months ago. As I remember it is very difficult to do this while dash is in. I did not have a 5/16 flare wrench. I have since ordered a 5/16 flare wrench and I will probably put a bend in it to allow it slide on brass nut/fitting to get square in the recess. If I have to I will also bend the wrench for the square nut. I tried this with the gauge panel pulled out on 1/4" 5" long bolts and had no success. I finally pulled the dash out and put it on the bench. I will also install the new oil line while on the bench when it gets here. My situation was different because I installed new harnesses. I've had the gauge panel out three times now and I've improved due to learning curve. If you pull it out I would disconnect the tach cable at the distributor and loosen Cable to speedometer in engine bay on the firewall. This gives you a little slack to disconnect and reconnect both cables. I stalled panel back in and it's not that hard. I did the top half from above and the bottom half from underneath. Use cushion from old chair to pad your back and neck. Use 1/4" coarse thread 5-6" inches long to keep panel out a ways. Also remove the steering column. Clearly mark the shaft and the rag joint to install it back exactly in same position. Loosen band at the fire wall and clamp holding spring on shaft holding bearing in shaft.Tape spring to shaft loosen nut and set screw in rag joint. Disconnect column at dash and gently pull column out. Also disconnect all wire plugs on column. I may have missed something but you will see anything holding onto the column. I thought I could do this with the column in but no way. Don't smoke cigars while under dash or you will get an eye full of ashes. If you decide to do this PM me with any questions. I thought it would be a difficult job and I'm 66 years old. I've had to do much more difficult jobs on this car.
Hope this helps.
Al

rayvaflav

While your oil pressure gauge is out being restored .... What do you use to cap the oil line so that you can still start and run your car without squirting your face with oil ?

Ray

APV

I would plug it in the block. Not sure of the size but someone should know.
You may have to take off the throttle rod at the firewall and possibly the spark plug/ stainless bracket. This should give you enough room to remove and install fittings. Hope this helps.
Al

63redvette

That's why I ordered my copper lined steel replacement. Thanks guys!

JohnZ

The hole in the block is 1/8" NPT.

FFBillysCor

Just a good point to know. The compression fitting that slides on to the oil line must go at least 1/8th " past the end of the cut. It is not always easy to do this, sometimes you must lightly sand and taper the line so the compression fitting will slide into position. When this fitting is tightened it will compress on the line and seal it. Once used in this manner it cannot be reused. If the oil line is not well seated into the body of the gauge (where it must be sited before the compression fitting is tightened) and the compression fitting does not seal on the oil line well behind (at least 1/8") the cut end, you will either have a loose oil line or a leak. The photos above, so kindly posted by other members, give a clear idea. Unfortunately clearances vary from different manufacturers and some compression fittings do not easily slip over lines. Best...

APV

Does this mean the oil line should be tapered so it enters the hole in the gauge fitting beyond the tapered bottom of the gauge fitting and slightly into the hole. The lightly sanding of the line allows the line to go farther into the hole? Also you said once this is done it can't be remove and reused? So the gauge connection should be done first and then threaded through firewall and block connection done last?
Thank you,
Al
I looked at the gauge fitting with lights on. I think my question was dumb! The line bottoms out in the bottom of the fitting where it is chamfered / beveled. I can see where rounding the end with sandpaper would let it fit better and more contoured to the bottom of the fitting. I don't know if it will protrude 1/8" from Line fitting.
Thank you,
Al

FFBillysCor

Sorry I could not respond sooner to your post.
Al, You do want the end of the oil line to protrude just past the compression fitting. When you tighten up the nut the compression fitting will close up tight where it sits on the line.
If the fitting does not slide snugly onto the oil line, then you may have to lightly Emery cloth the oil line to enable the fitting to slide into position. And yes, I would do gauge side first and check for a secure fit before block side. Be sure to install block side compression fitting the same way, once you have tightened these fittings that is where they will stay. If you make a mistake and you have enough line, you can cut it and use new fittings. However, a new cut will make it very difficult to slide on new fittings. Good luck with your project, I would like to know how you do. Best...