jataylor

I have a 1963 convertible, 327/300 4-speed. I am having the following problem and could really use some brainstorming from any of you who have experienced this similar issue:

Last weekend, I took the car out for a night drive. After driving for a while, all of a sudden and without warning, the car just completely shut down. Engine, headlights, radio... everything (Dangerous, to say the least). I pulled over, turned the key to 'off', turned the light switch off, scratched my head , and tried to figure out what just happened. I didn't see anything obvious so I turned the key back on and tried cranking the engine. It fired right back up! I headed for home, but it stalled out a couple more times. Each time, I turned off the key, let the car sit for a minute, and then it fired right back up. About the only work I had recently done was to convert the clock to a quartz movement, and relocate the power wire to the aftermarket radio (I found that it was plugged into the fuse terminal on the fuse block). I plugged it into an unused brown accessory wire I found near the radio.

This weekend, I verified that the battery cables were tight, so I decided to disconnect the power to the radio, and then took her out for another drive (during the day). Again, after it warmed up, I experienced the same issue...several more times. I noticed that each time this occurs, the sweeping second hand on the clock stops for 10-15 seconds, and then starts moving again. When it starts moving, the engine will also restart, and I can drive for another minute before it all fails again. What could be causing this??? The car is configured with electronic ignition (Accel Point Eliminator P/N 2005); however, I decided that failure of the electronic ignition wouldn't cause the lights and clock to also quit working. It seems like there may be a short in the ground system somewhere, but that doesn't explain why it always comes back on - AND makes it real hard to find. The charging system also seems to be working fine.

Suggestions?

65GGvert

That's a very common symptom of a loose or corroded wire in the firewall plug under the master cylinder. There is a large red wire in one of those plugs that feeds the voltage to the switch, headlight switch, really everything in the car. Pull those two plugs off and check the pins for corrosion or a loose fit. The one on the red wire is the culprit. Be careful pulling the plugs off, the plastic clips can break if you over pry them.

PS, it isn't a short, it's an OPEN connection.

toddalin

I would suggest that when they were working on your fuse block, some connection(s) either on the fuse block or at the firewall became partially dislodged/jiggled and now the connection is marginal.

As the car runs it draws current though the connections and with less contact, they become hotter until one moves enough or gains enough resistance so that you get an "open" circuit. After cooling, contact is re-established. Also, the various connectors on the fuse block corrode and can loose contact.

I would unplug the connectors at the firewall, and on the back of the fuse block, and fuses, and clean them (manually and with electrical spray) and reassemble to see if that fixes the issue.

Frankie the Fink

Before you do ANYthing with those two connectors disconnect the battery.

Zoomin

Spoil sport.

jataylor

What a great rapid response team! I knew there would be some excellent suggestions from the fellow forum members. I don't know that I would ever have suspected the connection at the firewall. I will carefully work on cleaning up those connections and report back this weekend if it was successful.

mrg

Might also check the red wire connection integrity at the plug-in connector at the back of the ignition switch.

I had similar symptoms where the engine would suddenly shut down when driving the car. A little disconcerting having coast the car over to the side of the road in traffic.!
After fumbling around under the hood and dash and not finding anything obvious I pushed the wires at the back of the plug-in connector to the ignition switch. Everything normal again.

Turns out the red wire crimp at the spade connector was a bit loose and allowed the red wire to slip out. The red wire was also a bit short in length compared to the other wires in the gang plug. A short section of similar wire spliced in and a re-crimp at the spade connector end took care of the problem. .. No issues since.

65GGvert

That wouldn't cause his headlights to go out, or clock either.

jataylor

Thanks for your suggestion - that is one of the things I looked into yesterday afternoon. I gently jiggled the wires on the backside of the ignition switch with the engine running. This had no affect whatsoever, so I ruled that out as a possibility.

I remain hopeful that the suggestion offered by 65GGvert will be the solution to my issue.

jataylor

Update: Last night I pulled the connectors apart at the firewall. I was a little surprised to see both sides of the connectors with male pins? - I hadn't seen a connector like that before. The pin for the red wire in the connector on the engine compartment wire harness was in fact discolored. The corresponding pin on the connector at the back of the fuse block was...well, missing! After taking the fuse box apart, I discovered that the red pin had somehow backed most of the way out of the connector. I am surprised the car started at all. I pushed it back into the connector, am in the process of cleaning up all the contacts, will reassemble in the next couple of days and plan to be back driving this weekend.

Thanks for the advise on how to diagnose this problem!

66RBS

Google Packard Twin Lock connector and you will see the design. Male female connector on both sides but never meant to last 50 years. Common for this terminal to see heat and soften the plastic which is how it might have backed out of the fuse block.

You may need to CAREFULLY re arch the pins so that when they mate they apply pressure on each other.

When re assembling use contact cleaner on the connectors and dielectric grease on the plastic housings to keep moisture out.

Randy

jataylor

Thanks for the education, Randy!

I'm learning more and more every day. I will try to carefully 'arch' the pin to promote better contact, and get some dielectric grease to apply on the plastic housing, as advised.