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Pulled the primary and secondary fuel bowls just to take a look. Brass floats look good (I will drop them in water to check for holes), as do the needles and seats.
When you take the bowls off you want to check the imprint into the gasket to see if there are any seal problems on an unknown unit. Check the little lip for damage.
Double check the metering plates to see that they are appropriate for the main body unit.
Check the sealing ridges on your metering plates for gaps, scratches thru them, that might not let them truly seal on the entire ridge.
You also want to make sure the throttle shaft is tight and not all lose where it will suck vacuum on you. If you have a vacuum leak from the shaft, then the whole exercise will be compromised.
Be very careful taking the power valve out, that the tool doesn't ruin a metering block ridge. I use a socket on the edge, so the tool doesn't touch the metering plate surface.
I check things for flatness-- from the base to gasket on the manifold to the body to the base, flats that the metering blocks fit onto, etc. I am not into files, unless someone knows how to use one, but I have a perfect flat metal bench top and some emery cloth that I will slide it on to see how flat my parts are, but the meter plate flats- you need to lightly without rocking the file (fine file) check them for flatness or better for a rookie, put a flat metal ruler end across them to check that.
I will carefully examine the passages for any hardened gas (varnish) and use a pick tool, because the carb gunk and cleaners sometimes won't get that out. And especially don't forget the air bleeds on the top at the bowl.
I have various pointy things and little brushes to push into the passages.
Denote the transfer slot position, before taking it apart, and the number of turns in on any adjustment screws, because that usually would be a good baseline to adjust to when it last ran.
After the bowl screws are out, check those to see if they are straight and thread them back into the holes without the bowls to see if they are straight to the main body.
I never just use carb cleaner, but will follow that up with compressed air.
I recommend the install of an anti blow for the power valve.
For a rookie, I don't recommend removal of the throttle blades (the discs), because they are peened on. If anything I smooth those out with a dremel the peen, but leave enough peen to hold them in place. I am working on nothing in the general bowl that interferes with smooth air flow.
I polish it all and even remove the car numbers/codes in the throat on my builds. Not necessary on a stock unit.
Float your floats to ensure, they aren't leaking. That was covered in the last thread. And check the metal tabs that the spring and needle sit on to make sure those are straight and not bent from overtightening the needle adjustment.
You want to check the needle ends to make sure they taper to a point and are straight.
The vacuum black gasket, I sit out in the sun to soften so it is easier to stretch to all four holes without tearing.
And if I wasn't tired, I could add some more!
I had food poisoning on the last carb conversation, so I hope to all this redeems me!
PS these are more advance things! and won't be recommended in your rebuild instructions!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 11-26-2014 at 10:02 PM.
When you take the bowls off you want to check the imprint into the gasket to see if there are any seal problems on an unknown unit. Check the little lip for damage.
Double check the metering plates to see that they are appropriate for the main body unit.
Check the sealing ridges on your metering plates for gaps, scratches thru them, that might not let them truly seal on the entire ridge.
You also want to make sure the throttle shaft is tight and not all lose where it will suck vacuum on you. If you have a vacuum leak from the shaft, then the whole exercise will be compromised.
Be very careful taking the power valve out, that the tool doesn't ruin a metering block ridge. I use a socket on the edge, so the tool doesn't touch the metering plate surface.
I check things for flatness-- from the base to gasket on the manifold to the body to the base, flats that the metering blocks fit onto, etc. I am not into files, unless someone knows how to use one, but I have a perfect flat metal bench top and some emery cloth that I will slide it on to see how flat my parts are, but the meter plate flats- you need to lightly without rocking the file (fine file) check them for flatness or better for a rookie, put a flat metal ruler end across them to check that.
I will carefully examine the passages for any hardened gas (varnish) and use a pick tool, because the carb gunk and cleaners sometimes won't get that out. And especially don't forget the air bleeds on the top at the bowl.
I have various pointy things and little brushes to push into the passages.
Denote the transfer slot position, before taking it apart, and the number of turns in on any adjustment screws, because that usually would be a good baseline to adjust to when it last ran.
After the bowl screws are out, check those to see if they are straight and thread them back into the holes without the bowls to see if they are straight to the main body.
I never just use carb cleaner, but will follow that up with compressed air.
I recommend the install of an anti blow for the power valve.
For a rookie, I don't recommend removal of the throttle blades (the discs), because they are peened on. If anything I smooth those out with a dremel the peen, but leave enough peen to hold them in place. I am working on nothing in the general bowl that interferes with smooth air flow.
I polish it all and even remove the car numbers/codes in the throat on my builds. Not necessary on a stock unit.
Float your floats to ensure, they aren't leaking. That was covered in the last thread. And check the metal tabs that the spring and needle sit on to make sure those are straight and not bent from overtightening the needle adjustment.
You want to check the needle ends to make sure they taper to a point and are straight.
The vacuum black gasket, I sit out in the sun to soften so it is easier to stretch to all four holes without tearing.
And if I wasn't tired, I could add some more!
I had food poisoning on the last carb conversation, so I hope to all this redeems me!
PS these are more advance things! and won't be recommended in your rebuild instructions!
Could you be more specific? Awesome, brother, thank you. You were a great help and encouragement "on the last carb conversation," but this is incredible. I'm going to get into this the weekend of December 6th, and we'll see how it goes.
Give some thought to purchasing a good book on Holley carburetors showing the five or so different circuits and how they work together so you can start to understand.
Also, being this is a old carburetor get a set of small drill bits and check the idle feed restriction and air bleeds for size because if someone was there before you the best rebuild will not run right on your engine. The carburetor specs are probably on the internet somewhere or someone here can post them.
This is like a addiction because the more you understand about these things the more you want to learn. It's truly amazing how these things work, you will realize how much you don't know if your like me..
Good tip on making sure the baseplates, body and blocks are straight.
Over the yrs they get torqued down by bubba they can warp and not work right it does make a difference. Spcl attention to setting the accel pump arms, leave everything stock spec go from there. Take your time bet it works well. Compressed air if you have it can get some stubborn stuff out just wear goggles. Keep us posted.
Give some thought to purchasing a good book on Holley carburetors showing the five or so different circuits and how they work together so you can start to understand.
Also, being this is a old carburetor get a set of small drill bits and check the idle feed restriction and air bleeds for size because if someone was there before you the best rebuild will not run right on your engine. The carburetor specs are probably on the internet somewhere or someone here can post them.
This is like a addiction because the more you understand about these things the more you want to learn. It's truly amazing how these things work, you will realize how much you don't know if your like me..
Great advice. I do have a few good Holley books that I am poring over in preparation for the rebuild. And you are certainly right about realizing how much I don't know. These carbs are brilliantly designed and a wonder to learn about. Thanks.
Good tip on making sure the baseplates, body and blocks are straight.
Over the yrs they get torqued down by bubba they can warp and not work right it does make a difference. Spcl attention to setting the accel pump arms, leave everything stock spec go from there. Take your time bet it works well. Compressed air if you have it can get some stubborn stuff out just wear goggles. Keep us posted.
Will do. I purchased a new garage home for my 65 that I will move into on Dec. 3rd. It has a great workbench area, so I am going to start this project in earnest on the weekend of the 6th. I will post pictures (and ask questions) as I go along. Appreciate the tips.
11-26-2014, 01:33 PM
