stvaughn

Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

DansYellow66

Maybe I missed it but are you using a clutch alignment tool to align the clutch disc when you mount and torque the clutch pressure plate in posiiton? Even if you are, the cheap plastic tools leave something to be desired. An old muncie input shaft works best - but, I would install some threaded rods in the top bellhousing holes to support the transmission weight when trying to mount it. Then get a piece of pipe or use a tie down strap/ratchet to pull the clutch fork back to allow the clutch disc to move slightly and the transmission should slip in the rest of the way.

dabear

I did use the clutch alignment tool (plastic). I'd like to use an old Muncie input shaft, but don't have one.

I've searched the forum and found a few threads about the clutch install and some go well, some don't. I've decided that since I have a new clutch, pressure plate, TH bearing, and rebuilt trans, that I should either resurface the flywheel or get a new one. Seems easier and not much more to get a new flywheel and not much more expensive.

Thread here

dabear

How do I remove the rear spring/diff and the front springs since I really don't have much weight on the frame?

DansYellow66

If your old flywheel has not been turned under thickness and doesn't exhibit heat cracking, then it can probably be resurfaced with no problem. When I bought a new Hays flywheel for my car it had too much runout in the surface and I had to have it surfaced anyway.

For the springs you want to use a spring compressor at the front. Except for some of the short, very stiff springs (F41) trying to remove the springs by just lowering the lower a-arm is very dangerous. In a nearly bare chasis it will certainly bite you.

The rear is also potentially dangerous. On an assembled car a C-clamp can be place on the out portion of the spring to use as something for the jack to get a bite on to prevent slipping - as it's lowered after removing the bolt. On a stripped chasis I think I would throw as much weight as possible on top of it first to where you can jack up on the spring end (at the clamp) without lifting the whole frame.

Joe Inama

You would be well served to hire a local consultant and save you a lot of redo. Wish I lived close, I would love to help you. Best of luck . :-)

dabear

That's a great idea. Anyone in the Warrenton/NorVa area that is interested?

I don't want to "bubba" this. However I do expect a lot of re-do's as I learn with my son. I didn't expect the trans to be that difficult while doing it on the open frame. Was nice to discuss the clutch with my son and I learned a bit too.

Oh well, on to removing the suspension pieces and getting the frame blasted and powder coated. Off comes the engine again

dabear

Ok, dumb question of the day...

Before removing the eng/trans I thought I'd check out the shifter and linkage. I had not mounted the trans to the bracket on the mid cross member.

So the shifter bracket looks like it is about an inch to far back (it is a Paragon replacement); please see RED and Yellow lines near shifter.

So I looked underneath to mount the trans to the lower bracket (pop) marked with a yellow arrow. The 2 elongated holes don't go far enough back to mount the trans. So If I were to use those holes the trans would have to move about 1/8 of on inch forward to mount.

Does the gap at the white circle look correct?

Of concern is that the trans output shaft would hit the shifter bracket during rotation if the drive shaft is long (I haven't looked at that yet).

Thanks for your thoughts!!!!

DansYellow66

I'm not sure why you think the shifter bracket has moved the shifter too far to the rear? Are the rods too short to reach the transmission levers?

Not sure about the transmission mount - you might try reversing it and see if it fits then. You do have the engine mounts all bolted up I guess? Hard to tell from this photo of mine but it's about the best one I have. I have a Hurst shifter but it sits pretty far back over the crossmember.

dabear

[QUOTE=DansYellow66;1588402026]I'm not sure why you think the shifter bracket has moved the shifter too far to the rear? Are the rods too short to reach the transmission levers?


Wow the underside of your vette looks awesome!!!

Not sure about the transmission mount - you might try reversing it and see if it fits then. You do have the engine mounts all bolted up I guess? Hard to tell from this photo of mine but it's about the best one I have. I have a Hurst shifter but it sits pretty far back over the crossmember.

QUOTE]

I'll check the transmission mount and see if it is reversible.

The reason I think it sits further back is the early 66 and before shifters mounted to the trans. The shifter bracket doesn't align with those bolts. Also the 1-2 gear rod only takes one full turn on threaded into the bracket to align with the shifter neutral. (with the guide in the shifter).

I guess I'll see what happens after the frame comes back from powder coating.

Thanks!!!

DansYellow66

Thanks. Maybe it is too far back. You might check your transmission tailhousing number to make sure it's correct (or at least used in Corvettes) and check with Paragon on their bracket.

Avispa

Your exhaust mounting bracket looks exactly the way it's supposed to. The gap is correct. The tailshaft used on Muncie 4 speeds for A body cars (Chevelle/GTO/4-4-2), X body cars (Nova), F body cars (Camaro/Firebird) and Y body cars (Corvette) are all the same dimensions. You'd know if you had a long tailshaft Muncie used in full size cars - it wouldn't fit on the mounting pad.

I meant to reply to you the other day about using an old transmission gear as an alignment tool. That's the way to go. The plastic tools that come with most clutch kits just don't get the job done. There are also high quality steel tools that work well, but it's hard to justify the cost for a once every ten year use.

DansYellow66

My thought on the tailhousing was that the shifter bolt pattern may have some variation between some of the car lines, even if the length is the same. Ford had 3 different toploader tailshaft lengths and many multiples of that on shifter bolt locations. It would be somewhat surprising if GM had only one bolt pattern for shifters on Muncies that was used by all car lines and for all models. They may well have.

Avispa

Maybe the table below will help dabear, but all short tailshaft Muncies have the same 5 bolt hole pads for mounting shifters in various positions.

My '65 roadster had a 4 speed from a '69 4-4-2 in it. My '66 Chevelle had a GTO 4 speed in it.

Casting Year Application
3831731 1963 "Thin Fin Tail", Driver Speedo, 27 spline
3846429 1963 "Thin Fin Tail", Driver Speedo, 27 spline
3846429 1963 - 1965 Regular Thick Web, Driver speedo, 27 spline
9779246 1964 - 1965 Pontiac Catalina Long Tail, Driver Speedo, 27 Spline
3857584 1966 - 1970 Passenger Speedo, 27 spline
3978764 1970 - 1974 Passenger Speedo, 32 spline

Never underestimate interchangeability of '60s vintage GM parts. GM was the absolute master at it. A friend and I put a rat motor in his '69 Firebird back about 40 years ago. All we needed were motor mount frame brackets from a Camaro. The bolt holes in the subframe crossmember were even in the right places for both the Pontiac and Chevrolet motor mount brackets!

Ford, on the other hand, can't even make cylinder heads that interchange between different versions of engines in the same engine family. I woulnd't use them as a basis for comparing interchageability of lug nuts. I'm currently having s*it fits trying to locate new heads for my '03 Cobra. Heads from a Shelby 5.4 liter won't fit, even though the motors are essentially the same other than deck height.....jeez.

Bear - PM me any time if you need specific advice on your project. Other than the color, we have the same car. You can benefit from all my dumba$$ mistakes and move your project along hopefully a little faster.

JohnZ

Your transmission should have the casting #3857584 tailhousing - was used on all '65-'67 Corvettes.

DansYellow66

I can't argue with that. I had to get a real education on Ford parts to piece together a Ford FE motor and transmission for my Cobra replica I built a couple years ago.

dabear

So I've got the rear suspension (spring, diff, etc.) off the back of the frame. late tonight I'll get the front suspension off the frame. I now understand the concept of; I'll just fix one more thing, opps ok one more; this keeps getting deeper. I recognize that most just don't understand what they are getting into when they start a restoration (that includes me).

I understand why they do the first one. Why the )(#@(*^#@$&*) would they do a second.

As hard as it is so far, I'm actually having a load of fun. Hope it stays this way.

Got my copy of the NCRS judging guide. Was disappointed to see that "Cast Blast" was specifically called out for point deduction. I like the idea of natural color, but I'd like to protect my baby.

Oh well, back to the garage....

Nowhere Man

The key word in NCRS it must here APPEAR original. In doing a correct Resto there is a fine line between being 100% correct and making it look correct In the grand scheme of it. You will only lose one point or so for incorrect finish.

dabear

Thanks John. That is the tailhousing I have along with the correct main housing so I guess I'm good.

dabear

I will take you up on that!