dabear

I decided to take the frame and suspension parts completely apart. Sent many out to be blasted and powder coated. I got the frame back today and put the engine back into the mounts (so I could send back the rental engine hoist). However I just realized something...

The trailing arm, spindle, caliper mounts are unique to each side. I just realized that I did NOT mark them as to their side. The trailing arm should be easy to figure out which side; based on the stabilizer mounts. But how do I identify the spindle and caliper mounts?

rene-paul

The spindle supports are left and right. Put the camber/shock mount rod in each spindle support. The spindle support is keyed left and right. The shock mount is forward.
And yes I learned the hard way.
Brgds,
Rene

dabear

Rene, Thanks!

Ok, more parts back from the powdercoaters. I trial mounted the trans (just the trans) into the pilot bushing. It goes in relatively easily. However, when in and in gear, I can't turn the output yoke. Seems too much resistance at the pilot pushing and input shaft.

Before I put it all together, is that normal?

Thanks,

DansYellow66

Is this what you did - mounted empty bellhousing (no clutch or flywheel) to the motor and then bolted up the transmission?

If so - in 4th gear the output yoke should be able to turn without much resistance. If in 1st gear you are fighting the increase in gearing. Also need to make sure it isn't accidently locked in two gears at once.

DRM500RUBYZR-1

Marty

dabear

Y'all will hear this a lot in this thread.... "I'm an idiot" yup mounted empty hellhousing to motor then trans. But tried 1st gear. Did it again with 4th and worked fine.

Thanks guys!!

dabear

Working on the "rear engine mounting" page of the Assembly manual. I'm using a replacement bracket, rubber mount, and exhaust clamp sections.

The bolts holes do NOT align when trying to attach the rubber mount to the bracket (that attaches to the cross member). Since it is a replacement bracket should I have to modify the holes or am I doing something wrong.

Note, front engine mounts, bellhousing, transmission are all connected and tight.

Thoughts?

Bluestripe67

Here is a teaching moment for me and others. If you are going to have factory side exhaust, do you need the exhaust hanger mount under the trans? I removed mine several years back. Dennis

dabear

I will have undercar exhaust as that's how it came. I love the look and sound of the side exhaust but that's not how this car came.

Agree if its not side exhaust.

JohnZ

No, you don't, and that's how it was designed (no hanger mount with sidepipes); the only time a spacer was used with sidepipes in place of the hanger mount was in 1969, but the vendors want the midyear guys to buy it too.

DansYellow66

Did you try rotating the transmission mount 180 degrees? Can't recall if centerline of fasteners to transmission and to the frame mount is the same. If the replacement bracket is just off a little I don't see that slotting the holes a little further can hurt.

claf

Many times if you loosen all the previously tightened bolts, wiggle and jiggle with vigor, miraculously some extra clearance appears.

dabear

Got the trans to mount to the cross member. Got it done just in time for the folks to come pick up the engine hoist. :-) Thanks for the advice!!

I got most of my parts back from the powder coater. Wow they look nice, however it was not as inexpensive as I thought.

Putting the spring together; I purchased a 7 spring liner kit. It came with 6 liners (I know to leave the top one off). however they don't line up well and look like they needed trimmed.

Does anyone know where should the liner end on each spring? More pictures to come later...

Ok here is a picture

DansYellow66

What turned out to be the issue with the transmission mount? Did you just wiggle the drivetrain around and get it to fall in place?

dabear

Loosened the bolts and wiggled everything around. Didn't have to drill/cut anything. It is tight rather than the middle of the hole, but it seems to be fine.

Thanks!

dabear

Trying to put together the trailing arms and I (again) am missing something. As you can see from the pictures, there is a tab (I believe for the e-brake) that is preventing the assembly from coming together. I think I have it right, but don't know.

Thoughts?

dabear

Should I be able to pull the clutch fork back with my hand? (allowing the clutch to turn)

Mark Lovejoy

No, unless you are unusually strong. There is a large amount of mechanical advantage built into the clutch pedal linkage.

JohnZ

The liners should be trimmed even to 1/4" beyond the end of the leaf it serves.

Protour63

In the pictures above, your caliper mounts are on the wrong sides. flip them left to right. The caliper should sit at about 11 o'clock if facing the spindle.