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Green Knob Cutoff Question

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Old 11-28-2014, 05:37 PM
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rongold
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Default Green **** Cutoff Question

I just installed a green **** battery cutoff onto my 67 435/427. There is not much surface area on the contact under the **** & on the threads. I don't plan on starting the engine until next spring as I believe if it's not going to be driven a few miles it's better to not run it.

My question is---Is there enough surface area on the contact to provide the current a hot (200 degree) big block needs to crank ??? Anyone here with an SHP big block that has one of these installed ???


RON
Old 11-28-2014, 05:47 PM
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Capt Van
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Been there done that, they're junk but that is just my opinion! I have the 427/400 and ended up getting this, works better all the time.




Amazon.com: WirthCo 20108 Battery Doctor Knife Switch for Top Post Batteries: Automotive Amazon.com: WirthCo 20108 Battery Doctor Knife Switch for Top Post Batteries: Automotive

PS don't forget to put a quality battery tender on it.
Old 11-28-2014, 05:50 PM
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corvettekent
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Originally Posted by rongold
I just installed a green **** battery cutoff onto my 67 435/427. There is not much surface area on the contact under the **** & on the threads. I don't plan on starting the engine until next spring as I believe if it's not going to be driven a few miles it's better to not run it.

My question is---Is there enough surface area on the contact to provide the current a hot (200 degree) big block needs to crank ??? Anyone here with an SHP big block that has one of these installed ???


RON
I do not use these anymore for two reasons.
1- I think there is a big current drop.
2- with the **** loose there is still sometimes a connection so I never trusted it.
Old 11-28-2014, 05:52 PM
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MikeM
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Why not just use the OEM battery cables and forget the gee gaws?

If your battery is any good, it oughta' fire right up next spring without assist.
Old 11-28-2014, 06:43 PM
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Ron:

At first I didn't like the cut-off switch, but it has grown on me over the years. I think that it will be okay for your BB.

I have a BB starter (internals) on my 327/350 HP car, and it cranks it just fine. Battery condition will play a big role, as well as overall cable and grounding condition. You need very good cables and good, tight connections.

The only green **** I recommend is from Tom at Restoration Battery. His cutoff is superior to the others I have seen. It is the one I have on my own car, and the only one I would recommend.

If you have a good multimeter, you can have someone measure the voltage drop across the cutoff switch when cranking. That should give you additional info.

Larry
Old 11-28-2014, 07:00 PM
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Nowhere Man
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Originally Posted by Capt Van
Been there done that, they're junk but that is just my opinion! I have the 427/400 and ended up getting this, works better all the time.




Amazon.com: WirthCo 20108 Battery Doctor Knife Switch for Top Post Batteries: Automotive

PS don't forget to put a quality battery tender on it.
With what he said. The green **** failed on me before
Old 11-28-2014, 08:06 PM
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67*427
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I use a "Green ****" on my ZZ454 and have for years. The one I use is the one that is Made in the USA and has a lable on it that says so. My BB does use the gear reduction starter but it has never failed to start. I think if you get the GOOD one, made in the USA, it's fine.

SD
Old 11-28-2014, 08:11 PM
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leif.anderson93
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Originally Posted by 67*427
I use a "Green ****" on my ZZ454 and have for years. The one I use is the one that is Made in the USA and has a lable on it that says so. My BB does use the gear reduction starter but it has never failed to start. I think if you get the GOOD one, made in the USA, it's fine.

SD
And, who sells that one??
Old 11-28-2014, 08:50 PM
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Velox
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Originally Posted by rongold
My question is---Is there enough surface area on the contact to provide the current a hot (200 degree) big block needs to crank ??? Anyone here with an SHP big block that has one of these installed?
I have one (made in USA, black ****, same deal) on my L71 and zero problems, very easy to on/off and no problems with starting. I always turn it 3-4 full circles to make sure it is "off." It fits well and bending my cable to attach it was no problem.

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Old 11-28-2014, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by leif.anderson93
And, who sells that one??
Google is your friend:
Amazon Amazon
GAMA Electronics thru Amazon.

I still believe that the one from Tom may be better (or at least equal). See Post #5. You could call and ask.

Larry
Old 11-28-2014, 10:04 PM
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Gary's '66
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Originally Posted by Velox
I have one (made in USA, black ****, same deal) on my L71 and zero problems, very easy to on/off and no problems with starting. I always turn it 3-4 full circles to make sure it is "off." It fits well and bending my cable to attach it was no problem.

Attachment 47844059
That's what I'm using as well. Some of those "green ****" QD's are junk.
Old 11-28-2014, 10:15 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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I had a 'good' green **** - resulted in a 'no start' condition several times. I only run the knife blade cut off now...
Old 11-28-2014, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
I had a 'good' green **** - resulted in a 'no start' condition several times. I only run the knife blade cut off now...
I agree with using the knife blade version. I would suggest the type that has the blade in a 'up/down' position rather than the side disconnect.
Like this:

The side disconnect version will be a very tight fit in a C2

Old 11-28-2014, 11:34 PM
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ricks327
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Over the last 12-15 years with my friends vast collection of cars (over 50) and my meager 2 cars I have installed the green **** disconnects with only 1 failure. That failure was a collapse of the unit where the **** would no longer screw into the base. I never checked where the switch was manufactured. Just our .02
Rick
Old 11-29-2014, 07:10 AM
  #15  
Frankie the Fink
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In the case of my 'good' green *****; I typically find I have to crank down harder and harder on the **** over time to get a secure connection and then it takes two men and a boy to uncrank it...on the one **** I 'dissected' corrosion had developed through nearly the whole device.

With the knife blade there is never a question of, "....did I get it tight enough?".
Its binary -- on and off...
Old 11-29-2014, 03:33 PM
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JohnZ
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Blade type (made by Wurth) works for me.
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Old 11-30-2014, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Powershift
Google is your friend: http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-M.../dp/B001N729FS GAMA Electronics thru Amazon.

I still believe that the one from Tom may be better (or at least equal). See Post #5. You could call and ask.

Larry
I've used this style for years with good success.....made in the USA and you can buy direct from GAMA Electronics. Compared to it's counterpart (made overseas) and used on many vehicles, shows to be made of higher quality materials.

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Old 11-30-2014, 05:10 PM
  #18  
66jack
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If you're not going to drive it for the time you state...just disconnect the + battery cable...
Old 11-30-2014, 05:20 PM
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warrenmj
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I've had the green **** (not sure if made in USA or not) for almost 15 years with no problems what so ever. The one thing I like over the blade version is on several occasions when I've parked the car out in the open, I've removed the green **** and taken it with me. Not sure if it would have prevented a theft, but it made me feel better knowing I may have at least slowed a thief down.
Old 11-30-2014, 06:17 PM
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FFBillysCor
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Default Battery disconnect

Originally Posted by 66jack
If you're not going to drive it for the time you state...just disconnect the + battery cable...
Although it is easier to access the positive terminal, it is far safer to connect and disconnect the negative terminal instead and avoid sparking so close to the battery. The negative terminal should always be disconnected first and attached last. Unless, of course, you have a "Green ****" on the posi side. Best...


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