Green Knob Cutoff Question
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Green **** Cutoff Question
I just installed a green **** battery cutoff onto my 67 435/427. There is not much surface area on the contact under the **** & on the threads. I don't plan on starting the engine until next spring as I believe if it's not going to be driven a few miles it's better to not run it.
My question is---Is there enough surface area on the contact to provide the current a hot (200 degree) big block needs to crank ??? Anyone here with an SHP big block that has one of these installed ???
My question is---Is there enough surface area on the contact to provide the current a hot (200 degree) big block needs to crank ??? Anyone here with an SHP big block that has one of these installed ???
RON
#2
Le Mans Master
Been there done that, they're junk but that is just my opinion! I have the 427/400 and ended up getting this, works better all the time.
PS don't forget to put a quality battery tender on it.
PS don't forget to put a quality battery tender on it.
#3
Racer
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Marysville Washington
Posts: 357
Received 79 Likes
on
46 Posts
2023 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C1 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
I just installed a green **** battery cutoff onto my 67 435/427. There is not much surface area on the contact under the **** & on the threads. I don't plan on starting the engine until next spring as I believe if it's not going to be driven a few miles it's better to not run it.
My question is---Is there enough surface area on the contact to provide the current a hot (200 degree) big block needs to crank ??? Anyone here with an SHP big block that has one of these installed ???
My question is---Is there enough surface area on the contact to provide the current a hot (200 degree) big block needs to crank ??? Anyone here with an SHP big block that has one of these installed ???
RON
1- I think there is a big current drop.
2- with the **** loose there is still sometimes a connection so I never trusted it.
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes
on
1,398 Posts
Why not just use the OEM battery cables and forget the gee gaws?
If your battery is any good, it oughta' fire right up next spring without assist.
If your battery is any good, it oughta' fire right up next spring without assist.
#5
Race Director
Ron:
At first I didn't like the cut-off switch, but it has grown on me over the years. I think that it will be okay for your BB.
I have a BB starter (internals) on my 327/350 HP car, and it cranks it just fine. Battery condition will play a big role, as well as overall cable and grounding condition. You need very good cables and good, tight connections.
The only green **** I recommend is from Tom at Restoration Battery. His cutoff is superior to the others I have seen. It is the one I have on my own car, and the only one I would recommend.
If you have a good multimeter, you can have someone measure the voltage drop across the cutoff switch when cranking. That should give you additional info.
Larry
At first I didn't like the cut-off switch, but it has grown on me over the years. I think that it will be okay for your BB.
I have a BB starter (internals) on my 327/350 HP car, and it cranks it just fine. Battery condition will play a big role, as well as overall cable and grounding condition. You need very good cables and good, tight connections.
The only green **** I recommend is from Tom at Restoration Battery. His cutoff is superior to the others I have seen. It is the one I have on my own car, and the only one I would recommend.
If you have a good multimeter, you can have someone measure the voltage drop across the cutoff switch when cranking. That should give you additional info.
Larry
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 49,009
Received 6,943 Likes
on
4,782 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Been there done that, they're junk but that is just my opinion! I have the 427/400 and ended up getting this, works better all the time.
Amazon.com: WirthCo 20108 Battery Doctor Knife Switch for Top Post Batteries: Automotive
PS don't forget to put a quality battery tender on it.
Amazon.com: WirthCo 20108 Battery Doctor Knife Switch for Top Post Batteries: Automotive
PS don't forget to put a quality battery tender on it.
#7
Burning Brakes
I use a "Green ****" on my ZZ454 and have for years. The one I use is the one that is Made in the USA and has a lable on it that says so. My BB does use the gear reduction starter but it has never failed to start. I think if you get the GOOD one, made in the USA, it's fine.
SD
SD
#8
Le Mans Master
I use a "Green ****" on my ZZ454 and have for years. The one I use is the one that is Made in the USA and has a lable on it that says so. My BB does use the gear reduction starter but it has never failed to start. I think if you get the GOOD one, made in the USA, it's fine.
SD
SD
#9
Drifting
#10
Race Director
Google is your friend:
GAMA Electronics thru Amazon.
I still believe that the one from Tom may be better (or at least equal). See Post #5. You could call and ask.
Larry
I still believe that the one from Tom may be better (or at least equal). See Post #5. You could call and ask.
Larry
#11
Melting Slicks
I have one (made in USA, black ****, same deal) on my L71 and zero problems, very easy to on/off and no problems with starting. I always turn it 3-4 full circles to make sure it is "off." It fits well and bending my cable to attach it was no problem.
Attachment 47844059
Attachment 47844059
#12
Team Owner
I had a 'good' green **** - resulted in a 'no start' condition several times. I only run the knife blade cut off now...
#13
Burning Brakes
Like this:
The side disconnect version will be a very tight fit in a C2
#14
Race Director
Over the last 12-15 years with my friends vast collection of cars (over 50) and my meager 2 cars I have installed the green **** disconnects with only 1 failure. That failure was a collapse of the unit where the **** would no longer screw into the base. I never checked where the switch was manufactured. Just our .02
Rick
Rick
#15
Team Owner
In the case of my 'good' green *****; I typically find I have to crank down harder and harder on the **** over time to get a secure connection and then it takes two men and a boy to uncrank it...on the one **** I 'dissected' corrosion had developed through nearly the whole device.
With the knife blade there is never a question of, "....did I get it tight enough?".
Its binary -- on and off...
With the knife blade there is never a question of, "....did I get it tight enough?".
Its binary -- on and off...
#16
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,857 Likes
on
1,100 Posts
Blade type (made by Wurth) works for me.
#17
Melting Slicks
Google is your friend: http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-M.../dp/B001N729FS GAMA Electronics thru Amazon.
I still believe that the one from Tom may be better (or at least equal). See Post #5. You could call and ask.
Larry
I still believe that the one from Tom may be better (or at least equal). See Post #5. You could call and ask.
Larry
#18
Team Owner
If you're not going to drive it for the time you state...just disconnect the + battery cable...
#19
Melting Slicks<br><img src="/forums/images/ranks/3k-4k.gif" border="0">
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado
Posts: 3,086
Received 1,946 Likes
on
704 Posts
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I've had the green **** (not sure if made in USA or not) for almost 15 years with no problems what so ever. The one thing I like over the blade version is on several occasions when I've parked the car out in the open, I've removed the green **** and taken it with me. Not sure if it would have prevented a theft, but it made me feel better knowing I may have at least slowed a thief down.
#20
Battery disconnect
Although it is easier to access the positive terminal, it is far safer to connect and disconnect the negative terminal instead and avoid sparking so close to the battery. The negative terminal should always be disconnected first and attached last. Unless, of course, you have a "Green ****" on the posi side. Best...