Tell me it is a good thing to have gray metal fake in your rear end oil
01-15-2015, 11:29 AM
#101
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Tailing arms
Jack,
My original trailing arm bearings failed at 60K miles in my 66 Vette, and approx. 66K in my 70 Vette (both daily drivers). The 70 Vette was kept for a total of 247K miles, and I never had to touch the trailing arms again, after the initial 66K miles repair. In both Vettes, the spindles were replaced, as well as the bearings.
The 70 Vette spindles were modified to be slip fit (much easier to set endplay at .001", and to remove - if ever needed).
Plasticman
My original trailing arm bearings failed at 60K miles in my 66 Vette, and approx. 66K in my 70 Vette (both daily drivers). The 70 Vette was kept for a total of 247K miles, and I never had to touch the trailing arms again, after the initial 66K miles repair. In both Vettes, the spindles were replaced, as well as the bearings.
The 70 Vette spindles were modified to be slip fit (much easier to set endplay at .001", and to remove - if ever needed).
Plasticman
My original trailing arm/spindle gave way back in 1975, drive side wheel came off just as I made it home in a snow storm, did not have much money the, police towed it away from curb and it sat in snow bank till spring. Got it fixed 1975 and it lasted until 2005 when there was not much left to the trailing arms from rust , so both sides were replaced with all new parts .
The original rear let go back in 1971 I think, that is when I put in the 68 3:70 and thought it was a 3:36 until 2009 when I cleaned the rear and read the code.
Not bad to get almost 250,000 + miles from a corvette rear end.
Jack
01-22-2015, 08:49 AM
#102
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Mix & match?
Guess what? Last night I went out to garage to take a look at the struts, and what do I see? The bent one is 1 1/4 & the straight one is 1 3/8
Now it all comes back to me, in 1971 I had the rear changed, the mechanic must have broken the original rod and put in the later design.
Should I replace the old bent original with the later one (stronger ?)
For a matched pair?
Pictures later
Jack
Now it all comes back to me, in 1971 I had the rear changed, the mechanic must have broken the original rod and put in the later design.
Should I replace the old bent original with the later one (stronger ?)
For a matched pair?
Pictures later
Jack
01-22-2015, 10:34 AM
#103
Race Director
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Well Jack, that is a difficult call. It might cause sleeplessness. 
Match with the big straight one. What is the latest on the rear? 
Dennis
Match with the big straight one. What is the latest on the rear? Dennis
03-22-2015, 09:20 PM
#104
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Rear end update
As you all know, this started out as a stuck plug on my tranny. Well the rear end blew and I got a chance to take the rear down to Gary Ramadei, in New Haven CT. He is one of the best re-builders in the country.
He did my steering box and now the rear.
Here are the photos of Gary at work doing a preliminary inspection of my rear. As you know, it was a mess after blowing up a few months ago.
The posi unit would not come out even with the side yokes removed. Gary will use a case spreader later in week to spread the side walls of case so that the bearings and posi can be removed. We tried with a pry bar but could only get it half way out.
I will have follow up photos as Gary sends them to me next week.
The end result will be a rear that will go from 3:70 back to the original 3:36 that the car was born with.
The arrival
Proper mounting needed to work on rear
Cover is off and that look is not good !
You expect me to fix this ?
Oh my ! what do we have here ?
Need a big wrench to turn the unit to get at snap rings
Got them off after a bit of work
Pry Bar did not work
Needed a big hammer to get the side yokes to come out, usually they side right out but the case is a little twinkled
Side yokes removed
He did my steering box and now the rear.
Here are the photos of Gary at work doing a preliminary inspection of my rear. As you know, it was a mess after blowing up a few months ago.
The posi unit would not come out even with the side yokes removed. Gary will use a case spreader later in week to spread the side walls of case so that the bearings and posi can be removed. We tried with a pry bar but could only get it half way out.
I will have follow up photos as Gary sends them to me next week.
The end result will be a rear that will go from 3:70 back to the original 3:36 that the car was born with.
The arrival
Proper mounting needed to work on rear
Cover is off and that look is not good !
You expect me to fix this ?
Oh my ! what do we have here ?
Need a big wrench to turn the unit to get at snap rings
Got them off after a bit of work
Pry Bar did not work
Needed a big hammer to get the side yokes to come out, usually they side right out but the case is a little twinkled
Side yokes removed
Last edited by Jackfit; 03-22-2015 at 09:42 PM.
03-28-2015, 12:24 PM
#105
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Here is a real burn out
Gary Ramadei has been working on my rear end. In my other post he is trying to remove the posi unit from the case but it will not come out because the case was spread and distorted by the explosion of the posi unit after 300,000 miles.
He took a torch to the posi to remove it , to see if the case would be usable to rebuild. It was not.....
Enjoy the pictures.....he will replace the whole rear end for me and then tune it.
He took a torch to the posi to remove it , to see if the case would be usable to rebuild. It was not.....
Enjoy the pictures.....he will replace the whole rear end for me and then tune it.
03-29-2015, 06:32 PM
#107
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Some great info on c-2 and c3 differentials
Hi Gang, as you know by the posts, my rear end let go. Gary Ramadei, who is one of the best re-builders you can find posted this information on my NCRS forum post. I thought I would re-post it because it will help explain what happened.
Ed Johnson , a NCRS member and friend has donated a 78 rear end to be used as base carrier and case for Gary to work on.
I hope this info helps some of the new and old members .
Hi Jack, Ed, Guys
Some information for you on Jack's diff issue and 63-79 vette diff's in general.
Jack had a 1968 complete differential in his '66 for the past 45 years. The '65-68's used the 1st design Eaton Posi case in place of the Dana posi used in 63-64. Keep in mind posi was optional until 1970 so there are some open differentials out there still. They were stronger then the Dana posi and I think equal to the Eaton 1st design.
The Eaton 1st design can be ID'd by looking at the case, they have what I call the "postage stamp" window in them. They were a parallel seam casting and this design was prone to cracking at the seam to large window opening. This casting are rough with sharp edges that are stress risers and with abuse or time the cracks form. Once a crack is started then it's a time bomb. Weld or drill repair does not work out well once a crack is there, the only solution is to replace the posi case with the better 2nd design Eaton case used from 1969 -1979 and still sold in the aftermarket today. The 2nd design can be ID'd again by the window, in this case a larger "tear-drop" window. These have a single staggered tooth seam and are much less prone to cracking but they still crack. When ever I build a diff I polish and tune the posi's to cut down on this from happening. I also have them cryo treated for HP applications.
In Jack's case the posi case developed a crack, who knows when, could have been in 1983 when Jack was burning rubber, could have been driving across the country, who knows. The only way you will know is to remove the diff and check it. However I have heard posi's getting ready to break by a clicking sound. I don't know if Jack heard that, I think he said he did when he came in last week but he would know better. My son heard it before his posi case broke in 1/2 on the street. Once the crack reached the cross shaft hole it was over. That is when I think it starts to click as play in the cross shaft and spider pinion gears increases. Then the gears will jam up and lock the posi and break. Jack's locked up and spun into the pinion "milling" it down in a second. Once the case broke it expanded inside the housing and really jammed up. It wrecked the RH axle and bearing and that is why I don't trust the housing. I have seen them break before but they usually shear and become loose parts inside the housing. Then when I open them up the parts fall out. Jack's was just the opposite. It was wedged so tight it was like having a case spreader on it and still wouldn't come out until I torched it out.
Have fun and drive your cars.....
Jack
Ed Johnson , a NCRS member and friend has donated a 78 rear end to be used as base carrier and case for Gary to work on.
I hope this info helps some of the new and old members .
Hi Jack, Ed, Guys
Some information for you on Jack's diff issue and 63-79 vette diff's in general.
Jack had a 1968 complete differential in his '66 for the past 45 years. The '65-68's used the 1st design Eaton Posi case in place of the Dana posi used in 63-64. Keep in mind posi was optional until 1970 so there are some open differentials out there still. They were stronger then the Dana posi and I think equal to the Eaton 1st design.
The Eaton 1st design can be ID'd by looking at the case, they have what I call the "postage stamp" window in them. They were a parallel seam casting and this design was prone to cracking at the seam to large window opening. This casting are rough with sharp edges that are stress risers and with abuse or time the cracks form. Once a crack is started then it's a time bomb. Weld or drill repair does not work out well once a crack is there, the only solution is to replace the posi case with the better 2nd design Eaton case used from 1969 -1979 and still sold in the aftermarket today. The 2nd design can be ID'd again by the window, in this case a larger "tear-drop" window. These have a single staggered tooth seam and are much less prone to cracking but they still crack. When ever I build a diff I polish and tune the posi's to cut down on this from happening. I also have them cryo treated for HP applications.
In Jack's case the posi case developed a crack, who knows when, could have been in 1983 when Jack was burning rubber, could have been driving across the country, who knows. The only way you will know is to remove the diff and check it. However I have heard posi's getting ready to break by a clicking sound. I don't know if Jack heard that, I think he said he did when he came in last week but he would know better. My son heard it before his posi case broke in 1/2 on the street. Once the crack reached the cross shaft hole it was over. That is when I think it starts to click as play in the cross shaft and spider pinion gears increases. Then the gears will jam up and lock the posi and break. Jack's locked up and spun into the pinion "milling" it down in a second. Once the case broke it expanded inside the housing and really jammed up. It wrecked the RH axle and bearing and that is why I don't trust the housing. I have seen them break before but they usually shear and become loose parts inside the housing. Then when I open them up the parts fall out. Jack's was just the opposite. It was wedged so tight it was like having a case spreader on it and still wouldn't come out until I torched it out.
Have fun and drive your cars.....
Jack
04-08-2015, 07:10 PM
#108
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Just picked up my rear end !
Hi to all,
I made a quick ride to Easton, MA , where a good friend , Ed Johnson owns a home town service and repair shop .
Ed had graciously donated a late seventies corvette differential to my car. It has a 3:70 in it, but I will have that changed (3:36) out by Gary Ramadei, of New Haven , CT , who is going to rebuild and tune it for me.
I will box it up and send it to him this week.
Here are few pictures of Ed and his good friend Bob, (owns a 63) who helped with the transfer. If you ever need mechanical work done just south of Boston, give Ed a call....508-238-9455
Ed & Bob in his shop
Here she is .....
I made a quick ride to Easton, MA , where a good friend , Ed Johnson owns a home town service and repair shop .
Ed had graciously donated a late seventies corvette differential to my car. It has a 3:70 in it, but I will have that changed (3:36) out by Gary Ramadei, of New Haven , CT , who is going to rebuild and tune it for me.
I will box it up and send it to him this week.
Here are few pictures of Ed and his good friend Bob, (owns a 63) who helped with the transfer. If you ever need mechanical work done just south of Boston, give Ed a call....508-238-9455
Ed & Bob in his shop
Here she is .....
Last edited by Jackfit; 04-08-2015 at 07:19 PM.
04-20-2015, 09:03 PM
#109
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
It has been 49 years since a pro touched my shafts
Last time was at the factory 49 years ago. I have sent off my drive shaft and half shafts for a professional balance and u-joints replacement. the drive shaft will be balanced with a new slip yoke that is needed. The old one had 300,000 miles on it ....
This is a local shop that deals with a lot of construction equipment and truck shafts. Shops are getting harder to find now.
Look at the size of the shaft next to my little guys
Update on car restoration....yes...it seems like it is turning into a restoration from just a stuck transmission plug.
Ed Johnson had donated a 78 rear with the good Eaton Posi unit (it will be ) to me and I have just shipped it off to Gary Ramadei, who many know of for his rear end, TA and steering box rebuilding skills.
He is going to tune it, replace the clutches with metal ones, and put in 3:36 gears instead of the current 3;70. With my wide ratio Muncie , the car will be back to original gearing that I changed out in 1972 ish....
On the way to Gary Ramadei
When done, I will have replaced all rear suspension rubber bushings, strut rods , spring bushing, shaft balancing/joints, body mounts and bushings and maybe the throw out bearing ...mufflers and pipes...lets see...did I miss something.......
This is a local shop that deals with a lot of construction equipment and truck shafts. Shops are getting harder to find now.
Look at the size of the shaft next to my little guys
Update on car restoration....yes...it seems like it is turning into a restoration from just a stuck transmission plug.
Ed Johnson had donated a 78 rear with the good Eaton Posi unit (it will be ) to me and I have just shipped it off to Gary Ramadei, who many know of for his rear end, TA and steering box rebuilding skills.
He is going to tune it, replace the clutches with metal ones, and put in 3:36 gears instead of the current 3;70. With my wide ratio Muncie , the car will be back to original gearing that I changed out in 1972 ish....
On the way to Gary Ramadei
When done, I will have replaced all rear suspension rubber bushings, strut rods , spring bushing, shaft balancing/joints, body mounts and bushings and maybe the throw out bearing ...mufflers and pipes...lets see...did I miss something.......
04-23-2015, 12:06 PM
#110
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Gary gets Eds Rear End for rebuild
Update on rear end and suspension rebuild..
Gary Ramadei is rebuilding the 78 rear end that Ed Johnson donated to the project. Here are some pictures of his inspection and comments.
"Looks like this came out of a 79 vette. The gear date is Aug 1978, maybe it made it into a later 78? Doesn't matter the 78 & 79's were ok but did have some areas that were weak. The clutches, ring gear bolts, and axles were bad and this one is typical as it has all those bad parts. They are not going to be reused though, I will use the best parts and that will make a difference. The axles had 065-070 endplay and were mushroomed over. These are just good for cores now. There were no broken snowflake clutches so that means this diff wasn't beat on much, otherwise they would be broken. The ring gear bolts used from 77-79 were junk. They stopped using lock washers and the bolts didn't have the shoulders like the older ones did. I will use ARP bolts, you can see them next to each other in the pictures."
d
Here are some pictures of rear inspection
Parts not being used.....
Disassemble rear
I will post next the pictures of the posi unit being polished
Gary Ramadei is rebuilding the 78 rear end that Ed Johnson donated to the project. Here are some pictures of his inspection and comments.
"Looks like this came out of a 79 vette. The gear date is Aug 1978, maybe it made it into a later 78? Doesn't matter the 78 & 79's were ok but did have some areas that were weak. The clutches, ring gear bolts, and axles were bad and this one is typical as it has all those bad parts. They are not going to be reused though, I will use the best parts and that will make a difference. The axles had 065-070 endplay and were mushroomed over. These are just good for cores now. There were no broken snowflake clutches so that means this diff wasn't beat on much, otherwise they would be broken. The ring gear bolts used from 77-79 were junk. They stopped using lock washers and the bolts didn't have the shoulders like the older ones did. I will use ARP bolts, you can see them next to each other in the pictures."
d
Here are some pictures of rear inspection
Parts not being used.....
Disassemble rear
I will post next the pictures of the posi unit being polished
Last edited by Jackfit; 04-24-2015 at 01:48 PM.
04-23-2015, 12:23 PM
#111
Racer
The axles had 065-070 endplay and were mushroomed over. These are just good for cores now.
Yogi
04-23-2015, 12:29 PM
#112
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
It looks like the axles would have to contact the spider gear cross-shaft in order to mushroom as shown in the pic, and yet there is not even a scratch on the cross-shaft. There also appears to be a lot of clearance between the end of the mushroomed shaft and the cross-shaft, so what caused the mushroom?
Yogi
Yogi
Hi, Rear may have been rebuild in the past using worn side axles , Gary will not use them, he may use my old ones from the 68 ....but that is a good question....I will ask Gary...
Jack
04-23-2015, 12:35 PM
#113
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Posi case being polished
Here are pictures of the posi case before polishing. Polishing is done to prevent cracks from forming.
Same case after polishing
Same case after polishing
04-24-2015, 01:47 PM
#114
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Posi Unit Update Ring bolts
We are reworking a 78 Corvette Rear from 3:70 to 3:36 , plus tuning it.
Gary is doing the rebuild and here is a quote from him on bolts that attach the Ring gear.
"Here I countersunk the posi case ring gear holes. You see in picture#1 that the holes are square edged and the stock bolts work with that but not the ARP's. The ARP's have a larger radius under the head for more strength and have the shoulder on them like the old GM bolts did. Somewhere around 1977 they changed to the bolts that were in here before, shorter, no shoulder, and not loctited in place. Not good, many backed out in use sometimes within the factory warranty period. QC with the late 70's vettes wasn't as good as the earlier cars but that is probably the case with most lines of the period."
Stock bolts vs ARP's Stock on right
Before milling notice flat surface
Counter sink
Cut
Polish
Perfect fit
Gary is doing the rebuild and here is a quote from him on bolts that attach the Ring gear.
"Here I countersunk the posi case ring gear holes. You see in picture#1 that the holes are square edged and the stock bolts work with that but not the ARP's. The ARP's have a larger radius under the head for more strength and have the shoulder on them like the old GM bolts did. Somewhere around 1977 they changed to the bolts that were in here before, shorter, no shoulder, and not loctited in place. Not good, many backed out in use sometimes within the factory warranty period. QC with the late 70's vettes wasn't as good as the earlier cars but that is probably the case with most lines of the period."
Stock bolts vs ARP's Stock on right
Before milling notice flat surface
Counter sink
Cut
Polish
Perfect fit
Last edited by Jackfit; 04-24-2015 at 01:49 PM.
04-24-2015, 08:31 PM
#115
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Posi Unit Update assembly of Unit
Gary is now assembling the posi unit after polishing.
Here is his commentary on the process.
Here I radiused the spider teeth to prepare to tune them. I used new solid steel clutches, new cross shaft, retainers, and washers. Next up the tuning process starts. Unlike a stock posi, where the spider lash is set between 002-008" and then the plates and springs are stuffed in there, I will set the posi up to a balanced, much more precise unit then any stock or rebuilt vette posi. where it is now I could just use the springs but it really works better to put the time and machine work in to tune them.
Pictures Parts laid out
Cross shaft and steel clutches
Radius Spider Teeth
Ready to Tune
Next series will be the tuning
Jack
Here is his commentary on the process.
Here I radiused the spider teeth to prepare to tune them. I used new solid steel clutches, new cross shaft, retainers, and washers. Next up the tuning process starts. Unlike a stock posi, where the spider lash is set between 002-008" and then the plates and springs are stuffed in there, I will set the posi up to a balanced, much more precise unit then any stock or rebuilt vette posi. where it is now I could just use the springs but it really works better to put the time and machine work in to tune them.
Pictures Parts laid out
Cross shaft and steel clutches
Radius Spider Teeth
Ready to Tune
Next series will be the tuning
Jack
04-24-2015, 08:53 PM
#116
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Tuning the Posi Unit
Gary is now ready to tune the posi unit. Here is his explanation of the process.
"Here I started to tune the posi. While some think you just remove the springs and plates and bolt it together, there is much more to it. The process requires running in the new clutches to "seat" them. This will change the lash after about 50 rev's but I go at least 300 per side, CW & CCW. Then check it on the bench fixture and re-shim. The shims come in 005 increments so I grind them to within 001" to dial in the tune. The end result is a balance setup between both the Left & Right sides. The naysayers will tell you it will not work, yet Tom's has been building them like this for over 40 years for street, strip, and road race cars. You will have full posi action yet there won't be any hammering in the corners and there is less load on the clutches. All my vettes are setup like this and work great."
Video of process
Just click on picture for video
"Here I started to tune the posi. While some think you just remove the springs and plates and bolt it together, there is much more to it. The process requires running in the new clutches to "seat" them. This will change the lash after about 50 rev's but I go at least 300 per side, CW & CCW. Then check it on the bench fixture and re-shim. The shims come in 005 increments so I grind them to within 001" to dial in the tune. The end result is a balance setup between both the Left & Right sides. The naysayers will tell you it will not work, yet Tom's has been building them like this for over 40 years for street, strip, and road race cars. You will have full posi action yet there won't be any hammering in the corners and there is less load on the clutches. All my vettes are setup like this and work great."
Video of process
Just click on picture for video
04-26-2015, 01:59 PM
#117
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Preparing the Case
Continuing the rebuild, we are now preparing the case . It must be cleaned both inside and out. Here are comments from Gary on this procedure.
"Here I worked on the housing, cover and pinion yoke. I finished blasting them to bare iron. Now most places will just shoot a cheap top coat of paint and call it done. I never liked that since once the car is in use that paint isn't going to last as long as it should. So I blast the parts to bare iron. Then Etch them for 30 minutes, rinse, blow dry, flame dry, cool, POR15 and then when just right shoot the top coat to mix with the POR15 and harden together. I'm waiting for the POR15 to setup now to shoot the top coat. Then I'm going home to fire up my 72 vette for a weekend ride!
"
Blasting first
Etching
Flame Dry
POR 15 Base coat
Final Coat
Interior Case Prep Next
"Here I worked on the housing, cover and pinion yoke. I finished blasting them to bare iron. Now most places will just shoot a cheap top coat of paint and call it done. I never liked that since once the car is in use that paint isn't going to last as long as it should. So I blast the parts to bare iron. Then Etch them for 30 minutes, rinse, blow dry, flame dry, cool, POR15 and then when just right shoot the top coat to mix with the POR15 and harden together. I'm waiting for the POR15 to setup now to shoot the top coat. Then I'm going home to fire up my 72 vette for a weekend ride!
"
Blasting first
Etching
Flame Dry
POR 15 Base coat
Final Coat
Interior Case Prep Next
04-26-2015, 02:23 PM
#118
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Installing the 3:36 Gears
We are now installing the gears after countersinking bolt holes and using new bolts. Gary's comments:
"Once I had the posi were I wanted it, I stoned the back of the new USA 336 ring gear and the posi flange. Then I cleaned the new ARP's in Acetone, same with the RG holes. I use alignment studs to keep the ring gear in place since it is a press fit on the case OD. I use #271 red on the ARP bolts, torque them and then check for full seating of the bolt and the ring gear. I'll let the Loctite set up at least 24 hours before applying any load to them."
Clean Bolts in Acetone
Tom's US Gear 3:36 to replace 3:70
Stone surfaces
Alignment Bolts
Torque Bolts
Check Fit
All Set Up
"Once I had the posi were I wanted it, I stoned the back of the new USA 336 ring gear and the posi flange. Then I cleaned the new ARP's in Acetone, same with the RG holes. I use alignment studs to keep the ring gear in place since it is a press fit on the case OD. I use #271 red on the ARP bolts, torque them and then check for full seating of the bolt and the ring gear. I'll let the Loctite set up at least 24 hours before applying any load to them."
Clean Bolts in Acetone
Tom's US Gear 3:36 to replace 3:70
Stone surfaces
Alignment Bolts
Torque Bolts
Check Fit
All Set Up
04-26-2015, 03:03 PM
#119
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Preparing the Interior of Case
We are now working the inside of the case prior to installing gears and posi unit. Gary's comments:
"Hi Jack
Here I final prepped the housing. You can see there in the ready pictures the inside didn't look so good after etching and rinsing. It was really only minor surface rust but I cleaned it up good with a wire wheel.
The holes were all chased. The pad holes were bottom tapped and countersunk, this means a bottom tap was used to cut new threads to the bottom of the holes. The factory used a starter or plug tap and the bottom threads don't always get a full tap. The bolt may not fully engage the threads so I know now the hole is fully threaded beyond the length of the bolt. The reason to countersink the holes is to cut the lead- in thread to prevent it from pulling when the bolt is torqued. The same process used on head bolt holes. All the oil passage were brush, washed, and blown clean with compressed air."
Rusting Before picture
Wire Bush
Chase holes
Radius Edges
Cleaning bores
Cleaned and ready to go
"Hi Jack
Here I final prepped the housing. You can see there in the ready pictures the inside didn't look so good after etching and rinsing. It was really only minor surface rust but I cleaned it up good with a wire wheel.
The holes were all chased. The pad holes were bottom tapped and countersunk, this means a bottom tap was used to cut new threads to the bottom of the holes. The factory used a starter or plug tap and the bottom threads don't always get a full tap. The bolt may not fully engage the threads so I know now the hole is fully threaded beyond the length of the bolt. The reason to countersink the holes is to cut the lead- in thread to prevent it from pulling when the bolt is torqued. The same process used on head bolt holes. All the oil passage were brush, washed, and blown clean with compressed air."
Rusting Before picture
Wire Bush
Chase holes
Radius Edges
Cleaning bores
Cleaned and ready to go
04-26-2015, 03:18 PM
#120
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Putting in a drain plug !
We are putting in a drain plug which will make changing oil a 5 minute job. Gary's comments:
"Here I tapped the drain plug hole and fit the plug. With new gears you will have to heat cycle them the first 10 drives you make. Drive 25-30 minutes, no racing, get the diff hot. Stop and let it cool at least 1 hour. At 500 miles you drain the oil and add fresh. With this drain plug it will be a 10 minute job, just jack up the RR of the car , pull the wheel off, put your drain pan under the plug, remove the fill plug with a long extension and 5/8" 8 pt socket and drain the oil. Clean off the fines on the plug, put a little #2 permatex on the plug and snug it up. Add posi additive and pump in Lucas 85-140 gear oil, should take just under 2 qts. Seal plug and install- done."
Tap hole
Fit Magnetic Plug
Installed
"Here I tapped the drain plug hole and fit the plug. With new gears you will have to heat cycle them the first 10 drives you make. Drive 25-30 minutes, no racing, get the diff hot. Stop and let it cool at least 1 hour. At 500 miles you drain the oil and add fresh. With this drain plug it will be a 10 minute job, just jack up the RR of the car , pull the wheel off, put your drain pan under the plug, remove the fill plug with a long extension and 5/8" 8 pt socket and drain the oil. Clean off the fines on the plug, put a little #2 permatex on the plug and snug it up. Add posi additive and pump in Lucas 85-140 gear oil, should take just under 2 qts. Seal plug and install- done."
Tap hole
Fit Magnetic Plug
Installed
