MMJ

My dad has a 58 with a base 283. Is the $3000 or so cost of an original Carter dual setup to make it a 245hp worth the expense? I'm speaking in terms of increased overall value of the car. Thanks for any input.

DZAUTO

Basically, the answer is yes.
But, for absolute correct originality, that is debatable (just ask the NCRS crowd).
First, nothing is cooler than opening the hood and seeing two carburetors on an alum manifold (of course, you GOT to have the finned valve covers for the finishing touch). And, I'm biased, the only thing cooler than dual 4s is FI.
Contrary to MANY, MANY opinions, a properly rebuilt and setup 2x4 WCFBs----------------WITH PROGRESSIVE LINKAGE---------will function perfect. The old WCFB carb was a very good, dependable carb. It is true, if not properly rebuilt, and the floats not properly adjusted (it's mandatory the floats be centered in the bowls and highly advisable that the tube be installed in the choke passage), they can cause lots of frustration.
Now, with all of that said, regardless of correctness, originality, passing NCRS judging standards, or anything else, I'd buy the setup and install it in a heartbeat (welllllllllll, not me, because I'm an FI nut).

MikeM

Power wise, you won't notice much difference with the base cam. You will hear more noise when you open the throttle.

The base engine isn't all that much to look at. The 2X4 engine with the valve covers is a whole 'nother story for eye appeal.

I don't care much for what the ncrs thinks but if you tie the value of the car to how "correct" it is, it won't add value to the car.

If you buy the intake at a decent price, you won't lose money on it if you decide to sell it.

Frankie the Fink

You can usually buy nice running clones for less than $3,000 and yes its a nice aesthetic and performance upgrade. The WCFBs are rock solid carbs once setup. My '61 clones are going on two years of use and I haven't tweaked anything on them since their installation.

Of course, 'real deal' 245hp dual quads will put a hurtin' in your pocketbook and 99% of spectators will not have no clue they are the original item anyway.

As to increasing the overall value of the car for resale ? Keep the original stuff, swap it back on or offer it with the sale and that will preserve the price. You could sell off the dual quads separately and they may have gained value by then...

emccomas

It will also depend on what is stamped on the engine pad. A engine code for a single four engine will not gain much beyond the actual cost of a two four setup.

Does your car have a correctly dated engine? If so, what is stamped on the engine pad.

MMJ

Thanks for all the help. I'll have to check what is stamped on the engine. Where would the date code be? I want to make sure it actually was originally a base engine. I don't think the intake manifold is the correct number, but not sure. Is there a way to tell what cam is really in it?

Frankie the Fink

Not the date code -- the engine suffix. It should be just forward past the passenger side valve cover on a slightly tilted, flat metal part of the head. A base motor suffix will be either CQ or DG depending on transmission; manual or powerglide respectively.

MMJ

I'll go by Dad's this morning and look and post back. Thanks!

DRM500RUBYZR-1

Marty

427/42566 coup

Nothing looks or sounds cooler than multiple or dual carbs

wilcar

Might as well install a good old 097 Duntov if you do the dual four set up!

MMJ

Ok the number on the block is F1212E. What does that mean? Wrong block? Thanks.

JohnZ

That says the engine was originally born in a full-size passenger car - not a "Corvette engine".

Frankie the Fink

Interesting. One source I use indicates that all 58 Corvette engine suffixes are two letters....another says that "E" by itself is a '57 truck engine with manual transmission. Maybe somebody here can confirm.

MikeM

'58 Corvette engines are stamped with two letters. Some '58 pass car engines aren't. Pass car "E" is a TurboGlide engine. Beware of the O/S crankshaft pilot bore.

emccomas

What you really have will depend on that year the engine is.

Engine code of "E" could be anything from 1955 to 1961, or possibly 1968.

Get the block casting number and casting date off of the back top of the engine. Let us know what that is.

It is definitely NOT a Corvette engine.

MMJ

Yep, major bummer. Info I have says it's either a 58 or 59 185 hp 2 barrel with turboglide. Casting number is 3737739. So knowing that is NOM, what would you guys suggest doing to this motor to bring the most value to the car? The car has had a frame off and looks beautiful. I can't believe they didn't have the original motor when they did all that. It's a shame. Thanks for any help.

MikeM

It's not clear to whom you are trying to maximize the value to. You, your Dad or a buyer?

MMJ

My Dad, but eventually a buyer. What could we do to it to appeal to the widest range of potential buyers?

MikeM

See post #3.

If you put the dual carbs on it, use the 283 PP heads that have the pyramid symbol on the front of the head to bump the compression. Add the 097 cam as previously suggested and you're all set for performance/sound/looks.

You don't have the correct engine so no sense worrying about whether it's correct or not.