JWLaRue

I'm considering replacing the door panels on my 65 roadster and have a few general questions that I hope folks can help me with:

1) It seems that all of the photos of the replacement door panels do not show the location of the lower window crank. If true, how does one locate the position accurately for cutting the hole?

2) Do these new manufacture panels come with the fiberboard backing and vapor barriers or would those be extra cost items?

3) How difficult is it to install the various trim pieces? Is it generally thought that it is worth the extra $150 to get the deluxe versions?

-tnx,

Jeff

Nowhere Man

Buy the deluxe ones. On the back of the panel there is a cut out where the window crank goes. Vapor barrier is extra. Not sure what your talking about on the fiber board

JWLaRue

Roger that on the window crank opening on the back side.

All the photos I've seen of the originals show that the back side of the door panels have some sort of tan looking material there...looks like fiberboard?

-tnx,

Jeff

Nowhere Man

That's part of the panel

JWLaRue

Thanks! Good to know.

-Jeff

Frankie the Fink

Here is front and back of '63 deluxe Al Knoch door panels; IIRC all of the necessary holes have perforations in the backing to indicate position of the ***** on the other side. You STILL have to be careful though and mate things up. Areas like the arm rest holes are large enough that if you punch through them improperly the hole will show above the arm rest. The worst part is getting the top bend on the steel reinforcement correct to follow the slight curve of the vent window (if '65 has the same feature)...now that's nerve-wracking!

Best to lay some 1" x 4" or 1" x 6" wood on either side of the curve underneath the backside of the panel under the steel reinforcement and kneel on the spot where the curve should be at the vent window and carefully bear down on the panel until you get a slight bend. If you need to go some more then move the wood pieces closer together and give it another go. This technique keeps you from kinking the reinforcement irreparably.

I've been told Corvette America panels now have the right bend but haven't confirmed it.

ptwohey

I see several types of vapor barriers offered but if you don't need NCRS like myself, I have used roofing paper also known as "tar Paper" on other cars I've worked on. I might try using the "water and ice" barrier on this one. I have some left from my last roofing job and like the self adhesive and flexibility of it plus it's not paper. It works good on the roof so should work behind a door panel too.

Frankie the Fink

Those barriers aren't that big a help....I just used some plastic over the hinge mounting holes in the doors stuck on with strip caulk...that keeps the junk out nicely...

Do NOT use that thick closed cell foam barriers some vendors sell...if you do you'll never get your door lock ***** on!

JWLaRue

Much appreciated, guys. All of this is good information for me.

The '65s do have the bit of a bend in the upper metal. At least mine does.

My door panels are generally in good shape, except for the driver's side where the upper has spread away from the glass. The metal strip has a couple of broken rivets and I think the underlying material (vinyl?) is broken as well. Going to be my first 'project'....

-Jeff

Zoomin

Are your current panels beyond saving? You might get by with a simple re-dye.

JWLaRue

There's nothing wrong with the color (they're white). It's all physical damage.

-Jeff