high oil pressure
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
high oil pressure
Here is a synopsis of the history.
1960 Corvette with basic 283. The engine has an oil filter adapter for the spin on filter. I had the oil changed and apparently the previous owner did not use red loctite on the threaded nipple and when the new oil filter was installed, the threaded nipple screwed itself into the adapter leaving only about 2 threads holding the filter on.
While driving the car, the filter blew off and I pumped out 5 quarts of oil immediately. I got the engine shut down quickly. I bought a new spin on adapter and installed it with a new filter. The engine does not appear to be damaged BUT I now have high oil pressure. When I start the engine it shows 60PSI and when I accelerate, the needle is pegged at 60+ PSI. After the engine warms up, the idling pressure is 30-35PSI and at cruise is 55-60PSI.
I have checked the gauge with an external gauge and it's accurate. I'm running 5W30 oil. The oil filter is not bulged out. I seem to recall prior to the filter blowing off, the oil pressure was 25-30 at idle and 45 at cruise.
Will this high oil pressure cause any problems? Would using a lower viscosity oil (0W20) lower the pressure or should I not be concerned about the high oil pressure.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Captain Bud
1960 Corvette with basic 283. The engine has an oil filter adapter for the spin on filter. I had the oil changed and apparently the previous owner did not use red loctite on the threaded nipple and when the new oil filter was installed, the threaded nipple screwed itself into the adapter leaving only about 2 threads holding the filter on.
While driving the car, the filter blew off and I pumped out 5 quarts of oil immediately. I got the engine shut down quickly. I bought a new spin on adapter and installed it with a new filter. The engine does not appear to be damaged BUT I now have high oil pressure. When I start the engine it shows 60PSI and when I accelerate, the needle is pegged at 60+ PSI. After the engine warms up, the idling pressure is 30-35PSI and at cruise is 55-60PSI.
I have checked the gauge with an external gauge and it's accurate. I'm running 5W30 oil. The oil filter is not bulged out. I seem to recall prior to the filter blowing off, the oil pressure was 25-30 at idle and 45 at cruise.
Will this high oil pressure cause any problems? Would using a lower viscosity oil (0W20) lower the pressure or should I not be concerned about the high oil pressure.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Captain Bud
#2
Instructor
Here is a synopsis of the history.
1960 Corvette with basic 283. The engine has an oil filter adapter for the spin on filter. I had the oil changed and apparently the previous owner did not use red loctite on the threaded nipple and when the new oil filter was installed, the threaded nipple screwed itself into the adapter leaving only about 2 threads holding the filter on.
While driving the car, the filter blew off and I pumped out 5 quarts of oil immediately. I got the engine shut down quickly. I bought a new spin on adapter and installed it with a new filter. The engine does not appear to be damaged BUT I now have high oil pressure. When I start the engine it shows 60PSI and when I accelerate, the needle is pegged at 60+ PSI. After the engine warms up, the idling pressure is 30-35PSI and at cruise is 55-60PSI.
I have checked the gauge with an external gauge and it's accurate. I'm running 5W30 oil. The oil filter is not bulged out. I seem to recall prior to the filter blowing off, the oil pressure was 25-30 at idle and 45 at cruise.
Will this high oil pressure cause any problems? Would using a lower viscosity oil (0W20) lower the pressure or should I not be concerned about the high oil pressure.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Captain Bud
1960 Corvette with basic 283. The engine has an oil filter adapter for the spin on filter. I had the oil changed and apparently the previous owner did not use red loctite on the threaded nipple and when the new oil filter was installed, the threaded nipple screwed itself into the adapter leaving only about 2 threads holding the filter on.
While driving the car, the filter blew off and I pumped out 5 quarts of oil immediately. I got the engine shut down quickly. I bought a new spin on adapter and installed it with a new filter. The engine does not appear to be damaged BUT I now have high oil pressure. When I start the engine it shows 60PSI and when I accelerate, the needle is pegged at 60+ PSI. After the engine warms up, the idling pressure is 30-35PSI and at cruise is 55-60PSI.
I have checked the gauge with an external gauge and it's accurate. I'm running 5W30 oil. The oil filter is not bulged out. I seem to recall prior to the filter blowing off, the oil pressure was 25-30 at idle and 45 at cruise.
Will this high oil pressure cause any problems? Would using a lower viscosity oil (0W20) lower the pressure or should I not be concerned about the high oil pressure.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Captain Bud
My understanding is that high oil pressure is a good thing. Low oil pressure can be a sign of big problems.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but I think your engine is running as it should in regards to the oil pressure gauge.
#3
Melting Slicks
I'm running 5W30 oil. The oil filter is not bulged out. I seem to recall prior to the filter blowing off, the oil pressure was 25-30 at idle and 45 at cruise.
As long as there are no strange noises coming from the engine I would not be too concerned. However You are using 5W30 oil which is probably API rated SM or SN . A better choice of oil is API CJ-4. CJ-4 has a higher amount anti wear additive that a flat tappet cammed engine like yours require. SM or SN oils have a maximum limit of 800 PPM of phos whereas CJ-4 oils contain about 1100 PPM phos. Common brands of CJ-4 ared Shell oil Rotella, Chevron Delo.
As long as there are no strange noises coming from the engine I would not be too concerned. However You are using 5W30 oil which is probably API rated SM or SN . A better choice of oil is API CJ-4. CJ-4 has a higher amount anti wear additive that a flat tappet cammed engine like yours require. SM or SN oils have a maximum limit of 800 PPM of phos whereas CJ-4 oils contain about 1100 PPM phos. Common brands of CJ-4 ared Shell oil Rotella, Chevron Delo.
#4
Instructor
I'm no oil expert....but this guy IS. He runs a very informative blog and tests oils to their breaking point. Here's a quick intro on the guy:
"Before we get into motor oil tech, let’s briefly touch on a little background info. I’m a working Professional Degreed Mechanical Engineer, as well as a U.S. Patent holder. Mechanical Design Engineering is what I do for a living. A Mechanical Engineer is clearly the most qualified Engineer to test motor oil that was formulated by Chemical Engineers, for wear protection capability between mechanical components under load...The intended audience is Automotive Enthusiasts, Gearheads, Hotrodders, Racers and Engine builders. So, it is written in normal everyday spoken language, rather than overly technical jargon. That way, it will be the easiest to follow and understand by the widest possible audience."
After spending hours educating myself and finally asking a few questions of the blogger, I determined that 5W30 Oil Extreme “Motor Oil”, API SM synthetic or 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic was what was going into my '61. He says that, "5W30 is preferable to 10W30 because of its better cold flow capability".
Mobil 1 can be found anywhere and is reasonably prices for being an outstanding motor oil.
"Before we get into motor oil tech, let’s briefly touch on a little background info. I’m a working Professional Degreed Mechanical Engineer, as well as a U.S. Patent holder. Mechanical Design Engineering is what I do for a living. A Mechanical Engineer is clearly the most qualified Engineer to test motor oil that was formulated by Chemical Engineers, for wear protection capability between mechanical components under load...The intended audience is Automotive Enthusiasts, Gearheads, Hotrodders, Racers and Engine builders. So, it is written in normal everyday spoken language, rather than overly technical jargon. That way, it will be the easiest to follow and understand by the widest possible audience."
After spending hours educating myself and finally asking a few questions of the blogger, I determined that 5W30 Oil Extreme “Motor Oil”, API SM synthetic or 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic was what was going into my '61. He says that, "5W30 is preferable to 10W30 because of its better cold flow capability".
Mobil 1 can be found anywhere and is reasonably prices for being an outstanding motor oil.
#5
Viscosity
I'm running 5W30 oil. The oil filter is not bulged out. I seem to recall prior to the filter blowing off, the oil pressure was 25-30 at idle and 45 at cruise.
As long as there are no strange noises coming from the engine I would not be too concerned. However You are using 5W30 oil which is probably API rated SM or SN . A better choice of oil is API CJ-4. CJ-4 has a higher amount anti wear additive that a flat tappet cammed engine like yours require. SM or SN oils have a maximum limit of 800 PPM of phos whereas CJ-4 oils contain about 1100 PPM phos. Common brands of CJ-4 ared Shell oil Rotella, Chevron Delo.
As long as there are no strange noises coming from the engine I would not be too concerned. However You are using 5W30 oil which is probably API rated SM or SN . A better choice of oil is API CJ-4. CJ-4 has a higher amount anti wear additive that a flat tappet cammed engine like yours require. SM or SN oils have a maximum limit of 800 PPM of phos whereas CJ-4 oils contain about 1100 PPM phos. Common brands of CJ-4 ared Shell oil Rotella, Chevron Delo.
#6
Melting Slicks
#8
Race Director
Posted 1:22 AM - probably writing in his sleep.
#9
Instructor
I don't get it. I re-read my post and that is exactly what happens. Is this not normal? Seems that the OP and I have the same issue then.
Hi oil pressure until the car is warmed up, oil pressure lowers with an increase in load, and increases again at idle.
Hi oil pressure until the car is warmed up, oil pressure lowers with an increase in load, and increases again at idle.
#10
Team Owner
Not quite....high oil pressure at cold start up is pretty normal; once at operating temp; increasing RPMs should result in higher oil pressure. Nothing else even makes sense... Think about it...the pump is driven off the distributor/cam gearing...more RPMs = more pump revolutions...
#11
Instructor
Not quite....high oil pressure at cold start up is pretty normal; once at operating temp; increasing RPMs should result in higher oil pressure. Nothing else even makes sense... Think about it...the pump is driven off the distributor/cam gearing...more RPMs = more pump revolutions...
Phil
#12
Race Director
About the only abnormality that I can think of that would cause that is a very weak pressure relief spring that opens as soon as the rpm rises and boosts the flow volume - bleeding off pressure. And it barely closes at idle so the pressure jumps back up. Not even sure if that is possible.
#14
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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#16
Team Owner
#18
Race Director
Sounds like the oil pump may be starving for oil, and thus not able to provide the proper pressure when at higher RPMs.
Larry
#19
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
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[QUOTE=Captain Bud;1588783354
BUT I now have high oil pressure. Captain Bud[/QUOTE]
Just reading the OP's post, seems like his problem is a new event? What happened before his filter fell off?
The oil pump is a constant, the filter falling off is a recent event.
I'm so confused.
BUT I now have high oil pressure. Captain Bud[/QUOTE]
The oil pump is a constant, the filter falling off is a recent event.
I'm so confused.
#20
Team Owner
When my canister gasket blew and dumped 4-1/2 qts of oil on the highway...my hi-vol pump reacted by the pressure oscillating between about 20 and 45 pounds. The dancing gauge is what caught my attention and quick action saved the motor.