Tom454

I decided to put the 67 Camaro 327 engine from my 66 in mothballs.

I have a selection of 4 bolt main high nickel content blocks sitting around so I grabbed one off the shelf and made it my guinea pig.

Here is what is done so far:
Block: vintage 350 4 bolt main 2pc rear seal, non-roller, bored .020 final honed to match pistons
Pistons: Keith Black UEM-KB100-020 (non-coated) 4.020
Rings: Total Seal TSR-CR3690-20 (1/16, 1/16, 3/16)
Rods: SCAT SCA-25700 (5.7, floating/bushed, clearanced)
Crank: Eagle ESP-10350375057I (internal balance)
Main Bearings: Clevite MS909P (non-radiused)
Rod Bearings: Clevite CB-663P (non-radiused)
Balancer: Summit SUM-161350
Clutch: Centerforce Dual Friction (CTF) DF271675
Flywheel: OEM 1966 327, resurfaced, new ring gear
Intake: GM Aluminum Z28 3932472
Oil Pump: Melling M55
Ignition: Stock 66 Vette with Mallory kit and needle bearing SS housing cross-shaft

Yet to do:
Cam: (suggested by Comp Cams) Comp Cams #CCA-12-236-3 Grind CS XM 262H-12 1,300-5,500
Heads: Edelbrock 60739/Edelbrock 607319 (spring diameter?)
Rocker Arms 1.5 3/8 cast roller tip SUM-141706PL for 1.50 springs, PolyLocks
Carb: Have several to pick from... Holleys
Grunt Work: Clearance block, balance, figure out the timing cover and tab.

The target is a mild street 350/380 stroker.

Ya'll see any obvious issues with this collage of parts? I'm not racing it... I'm building it just for grins. The 327 was not original and needed an overbore.

Bluestripe67

Don't forget a nice oil pan with baffles, and trap door...GM or aftermarket. Have you bought your balancer yet? If not I have a new/never installed StreetDamper 6 1/4" we could talk about. Dennis

MikeM

What is a high nickel block?

Tom454

Don't quote me on this but "certain" 350 blocks were cast with a higher than normal "nickel" content which made the cylinder bores a little bit harder than other blocks. The machine shop where I have my blocks bored told me he had a very difficult time bringing the bores out to final size... due to this anomaly.

http://www.ehow.com/how_7636437_iden...ock-chevy.html

Tom454

I bought this one: Balancer: Summit SUM-161350.

I was planning on using the OEM 327 pan to avoid fitment issues and because I'm not racing. I haven't checked clearance yet with the Eagle crank.

DZAUTO

Mike,
SOME blocks, such as for hi-perf use, trucks, heavy duty applications, etc, were cast with a higher percentage of tin and/or nickel.
And it is easy to identify such a block. On the front of the block, in the timing chain area, there can be a 20 above a 10, or just a 10. If 20 over 10 is cast in this area, that means the block has an added 20% more nickel than what is normally in the cast iron alloy and 10% more tin. If it has just a 10 only, that means it has 10% more nickel and no additional tin.
Additional nickel hardens the block, thus, less cylinder wear.
More tin helps the block heat and cool more evenly, thus, it is less susceptible to warping and distortion.
Consequently, the higher nickel/tin blocks are more desirable for building a performance engine. For an everyday street/daily driver, a normal cast iron block is just fine. I build my personal engines out of whatever is available and go on down the road. Sure, it would be nice to build every engine from a USED, hi-nickel block---------------------------------but it would also be nice to have chocolate cake for breakfast every morning!

DZAUTO

I have a 383 in my 51 Chevy with a curved windage tray and the 57-62 style trapdoor oil pan with ZERO clearance issues.

This is actually one of my 400 engines which has the SAME STROKE as a 383, showing the curved tray.

Mike Ward

The 010/020 myth has been done, dusted, busted and put in the grave umpteen times only to rise again.

These numbers have been proven without a shadow of doubt to be simply the foundry pattern/core numbers for the front section of the block and are NOTHING to do with a supposed increased percentage of nickel and tin.

The 010 is short for 3970010 and 020 is short for 3970020 which were two very popular blocks in '70s which share a common pattern. Occasionally, in addition to 010 and 020, 014 is also seen which is short for 3970014.

Some older blocks occasionally also have two other sets of three digits in the same area. Without exception, the digits correspond to the last three digits of the block casting number.

An acquaintance who works for the equivalent of our NASA took sample from an 010/020 block and from a 'regular' block of the same era. Lab analysis showed no difference in tin or nickel content.

Myth busted.

Anybody ever hear of a '67 SBC that came from the factory with a BBC hood?

LB66383

IMHO you may be a little "light" on the cam. I know it's supposed to be a higher rpm cam, but I've got an XE268H in a 383, and it makes plenty of power from just above idle. As a matter of fact, I'm thinking of trying out an XE274H.

Tom454

Thanks for the info. My 327 is sitting on the OEM pan right now and all of my engine stands are occupied. I just had rotator cuff and bicep surgery 12/31/14 and I have to wait a bit before I can start messing with heavy stuff.

Tom454

And that's why I prefaced my post with "don't quote me in this". LOL

Tom454

Yes... the cam is still a quandary. I gave Comp Cams all of the static info and told them I wanted a low to mid cam... no high end needed. The number I posted above is the number they suggested. I'm about to order the cam so I can check for clearance so I have to make up my mind ASAP.

Mike Ward

Probably not in your case but I know of several instances where builders paid a handsome premium for a 'high nickel block' based on the myth.

Whoever wrote the article you quoted also knows little or nothing about metallurgy. If extra tin and nickel were to be used, it would have been in the order of .1% or .2%, not 10% and 20% as per the myth.

DZAUTO

And that may be correct, but it has always been my understanding that the added nickel/tin information was from GM sources.

Dr L-88

Do yourself a favor and give Chris Straub a call to discuss your cam needs.

http://www.straubtechnologies.com/

MikeM

I have a 400 SB with the stock heads but LT-1 intake and 780 Holley. The valves open/shut via a L 79 cam. Strong bottom end pulls good all the way up.

I'd recommend that cam simply because it's proven, it's durable and easy on the rest of the valve train. Sounds good too.

Tom454

No problem from my viewpoint. Only paid $125 for the block probably 35 years ago. Other ones I have were given to me as payment for automotive services rendered. It's really not an issue for me. I'm happy with what I have. Appreciate the input.

Tom454

Where can I get the specs for that cam?

MikeM

Go here. Take your pick.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...+L+79+cam+spec

JRRHINO

Centerforce DF clutch