Tigershark3

I've got a couple of broken studs on my right rear wheel. Has anyone had any luck pulling apart the e-brake shoes, driving the broken ones out and slipping in new ones from the back without pulling the axle shaft out?

Thanks in advance

TCracingCA

But it involves drilling a hole where most don't want to drill because they are NCRS types and a hole would cause them to have a near nervous breakdown!

Statistical data based on 55 views and no replies, are that there are 54 of 55 that are NCRS members who gave no feedback!

TCracingCA

As per new views! 77/78 NCRS types!

vetsvette2002

Gee, you're so helpful.

Easy Rhino

No desire to call out anyone on any side; however, the response to reply ratio in this forum, as well as many if not all forums is neither unusual nor indicative of any axes to grind, quoted comment notwithstanding. Just say in', some have reasons to comment, including slams, but most just view from the sidelines.

OP, here's a bump for you, with a meager attempt to get the topic back on track. I am no help, sorry. I have replaced many wheel studs, but none on a mid-year Corvette.

4 Speed Dave

It doesn't depend on the application I prefer/the correct way is to take the axle or in this case the stub axle out and press out and in the old an new studs.

Chuck Gongloff

Very helpful information. I'm sure that the OP really appreciates your intuitive input.


THAT'S the way to do it. Been there, done that.

66RBS

I had a mechanic do it for me last summer. He said he had to enlarge a hole in the splash shield then was able to get the stud started. My car is not judged so I did not care. If I recall correctly the charge was 5 hours labor. I have to take it back to him because he did not index the rotor correctly and now I cannot adjust the emergency brake

Randy

MikeM

I remembered there was a way to do it but didn't remember how so I dug up this old thread.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1569122400

Drilling a hole may be easier but either way beats pulling the axle out.

Tigershark3

Thanks for everyone's input... I'm going to keep an open mind but the two broken studs aren't budging so may have to pull the axle after all. Pretty sure I can pull it off but the hardest part though will be getting the bearing clearances right when it goes back together.

Easy Rhino

5 Hours labor seems like an awful lot! Maybe I am mis-judging the amount of effort to do this.

TCracingCA

as to how he resolved the issue when the pin that normally goes there couldn't be held, because now that hole was too large and I would bet there is a non-NCRS washer with a small hole on each large hole per side to fix that mistake!!! But I can see someone seeing that hole and heck, lets drill that one, because it would be a good pre-existing pilot hole for my giant bit! That is funny! But we have all had our moments!

Actually I was just funning with NCRS comments naturally so i will continue on, but then those types would need to see an official tech diagram and be told precisely where to put a figgin hole, whereas a person with good mechanical ability could rotate the spindle and see what and where is there an obstruction to pushing out the studs one at a time, threw the backside if you made a single hole, that was large enough for the stud head and big enough for whatever tool you have in your arsenal of tools, to press them back in- one at a time as you rotate the next stud to where the hole is! If anyone asks me for a diagram, then you are only qualified to pay someone for their services, who doesn't need a diagram! Maybe Corvette Restorer should get that article into print as to what not to do for their next issue! or better yet an article on how to fix such a hole if encountered on your NCRS restoration! But i can write that for the Restorer upon request, lets see find a washer that hole size (because they are already round) and if none can be found locate a slightly larger washer and drill hole larger stll, then weld washer into hole, tack weld washer center hole and grind all flat, then go take the part for replating!!!!!!

PS I would say 5 hours would have included beer!

Second PS if the studs are quality and you have a quality lug with better longer thread engagement, you can tap it in and then pull them thru from the front with a lug procedure using spray oil. force on the threads could heat up your threads and cause a failure, so I would crank them in by hand oil to cool if they are going in rough needing torque! PS a good mechanic would be following along with what I just said!

Heck if you just have to pull it all apart, because a hole is a big evil recommendation, then 7/16 studs actually have no business being on the high horsepower cars especially in consideration of modern rubber and long term ownership far exceeding GM's intent for you to trade in and buy a new model 40 years ago! Therefore if you pull it apart, put proper 1/2 studs into the spindles on a HP car or wider tired car!!!!!!!!!!

TCracingCA

It might just be seated wrongly, but then there could be an interference problem with the stud heads and grinding those for clearance could be something that you all should visually inspect for, if you are changing them!!!!! I am such an A-hole for wanting to help!!