Replaced temp gauge- scratching my head
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Replaced temp gauge- scratching my head
When I did the dash lights yesterday I was primarily interested in replacing my temp gauge. My old one had power and would not swing when I grounded the green-wire post either using the original wire or with a jumper. My used/working one I bench tested using the backup light connector for power and it swung to full hot when grounded.
When I installed this new one it too now does not budge. I have just tested for power with it plugged in - 11.5 volts which is consistent with the voltage I read on my fuel gauge and backup lights both of which work. When I ground the new one now in the car either using the sender lead OR the jumper I get no action at all.
As a side not in case someone asks I did test my old one and it is dead as ever. But I have no idea why my "tested good" one isn't working. I did take the car for a drive and if there is any voltage increase up and over 12 when the car is running, it didn't change anything. The others still work and this one still doesn't. I'm almost to the point if pulling my hair out.
If anyone has any advice please let me know.
When I installed this new one it too now does not budge. I have just tested for power with it plugged in - 11.5 volts which is consistent with the voltage I read on my fuel gauge and backup lights both of which work. When I ground the new one now in the car either using the sender lead OR the jumper I get no action at all.
As a side not in case someone asks I did test my old one and it is dead as ever. But I have no idea why my "tested good" one isn't working. I did take the car for a drive and if there is any voltage increase up and over 12 when the car is running, it didn't change anything. The others still work and this one still doesn't. I'm almost to the point if pulling my hair out.
If anyone has any advice please let me know.
#2
Race Director
When I did the dash lights yesterday I was primarily interested in replacing my temp gauge. My old one had power and would not swing when I grounded the green-wire post either using the original wire or with a jumper. My used/working one I bench tested using the backup light connector for power and it swung to full hot when grounded.
When I installed this new one it too now does not budge. I have just tested for power with it plugged in - 11.5 volts which is consistent with the voltage I read on my fuel gauge and backup lights both of which work. When I ground the new one now in the car either using the sender lead OR the jumper I get no action at all.
As a side not in case someone asks I did test my old one and it is dead as ever. But I have no idea why my "tested good" one isn't working. I did take the car for a drive and if there is any voltage increase up and over 12 when the car is running, it didn't change anything. The others still work and this one still doesn't. I'm almost to the point if pulling my hair out.
If anyone has any advice please let me know.
When I installed this new one it too now does not budge. I have just tested for power with it plugged in - 11.5 volts which is consistent with the voltage I read on my fuel gauge and backup lights both of which work. When I ground the new one now in the car either using the sender lead OR the jumper I get no action at all.
As a side not in case someone asks I did test my old one and it is dead as ever. But I have no idea why my "tested good" one isn't working. I did take the car for a drive and if there is any voltage increase up and over 12 when the car is running, it didn't change anything. The others still work and this one still doesn't. I'm almost to the point if pulling my hair out.
If anyone has any advice please let me know.
However, if you grounded the gage connection under the dash with the green wire disconnected and had 12 volts on the other gage connection, and the gage still didn't move, then it appears that the gage is bad.
Larry
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
The sending unit to temperature gage green wire goes thru the firewall/bulk-head connector. I would check this wire for continuity and resistance.
However, if you grounded the gage connection under the dash with the green wire disconnected and had 12 volts on the other gage connection, and the gage still didn't move, then it appears that the gage is bad.
Larry
However, if you grounded the gage connection under the dash with the green wire disconnected and had 12 volts on the other gage connection, and the gage still didn't move, then it appears that the gage is bad.
Larry
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Just a follow up since these posts get searched sometimes- my new green wasn't fully pushed on the gauge. I removed it and tried my jumper again, this time the jumper was the only thing on that post, to the column bracket by alligator clips. The gauge pegged hot. I got my fingers up in there and reinstalled the green again- this time evidently more fully as it swung back to cold (car is cold).