C1 courtesy light door switch
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
C1 courtesy light door switch
Help me understand how this switch is supposed to work. Mine failed sometime during the summer and now that winter is here I started looking at the switch.
I opened it up to see if it was corroded inside, cleaned up the contacts with steel wool.
But I can't see how this is supposed to function. And I'm assuming I'm putting it back together correctly in this order into the housing: plastic piston, washer, spring, the base unit.
I get infinite resistance whether the plunger is pressed or not.
Are the contacts supposed to touch the interior of the switch cylinder's body to close the circuit when the door is open? I can't see any other way that the circuit closes to power the light.
I opened it up to see if it was corroded inside, cleaned up the contacts with steel wool.
But I can't see how this is supposed to function. And I'm assuming I'm putting it back together correctly in this order into the housing: plastic piston, washer, spring, the base unit.
I get infinite resistance whether the plunger is pressed or not.
Are the contacts supposed to touch the interior of the switch cylinder's body to close the circuit when the door is open? I can't see any other way that the circuit closes to power the light.
#2
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Upon further review I am starting to think that when the plunger is out that the 2 terminals are supposed to contact the washer to close the circuit.
The washer is so black I thought it was plastic. It doesn't stick to a magnet so I'm guessing it might be copper. Currently soaking it in CLR to see if that helps.
The washer is so black I thought it was plastic. It doesn't stick to a magnet so I'm guessing it might be copper. Currently soaking it in CLR to see if that helps.
#3
Eckler description
Help me understand how this switch is supposed to work. Mine failed sometime during the summer and now that winter is here I started looking at the switch.
I opened it up to see if it was corroded inside, cleaned up the contacts with steel wool.
But I can't see how this is supposed to function. And I'm assuming I'm putting it back together correctly in this order into the housing: plastic piston, washer, spring, the base unit.
I get infinite resistance whether the plunger is pressed or not.
Are the contacts supposed to touch the interior of the switch cylinder's body to close the circuit when the door is open? I can't see any other way that the circuit closes to power the light.
I opened it up to see if it was corroded inside, cleaned up the contacts with steel wool.
But I can't see how this is supposed to function. And I'm assuming I'm putting it back together correctly in this order into the housing: plastic piston, washer, spring, the base unit.
I get infinite resistance whether the plunger is pressed or not.
Are the contacts supposed to touch the interior of the switch cylinder's body to close the circuit when the door is open? I can't see any other way that the circuit closes to power the light.
Have you ever opened your refrigerator door at home and had the light come on? Then when you close it, it magically turns off? Well in theory, the door jamb switch is the little man in the jamb that makes this magic happen in your Corvette. Without it, finding anything in the dark would be a matter of fumbling around. Corvette’s door jamb switch works the same way. When you open your car door, this little switch spring loaded plunger engages contact points closing the circuit and sending an electrical current to your dome light. Ecklers Corvette is constantly working with the worlds top manufacturers to offer you they very best in replacement electrical components. Remember to check your connections and consult your Corvette's service shop manual before doing any electrical project. Don’t get caught fumbling in the dark, get yourself a new door jamb switch from the pros that know, Trust Ecklers Corvette for all your 1955, 1956, 1957, 1958, 1959, 1960, 1961 and 1962 Corvette restoration needs. Greg
#4
Drifting
Upon further review I am starting to think that when the plunger is out that the 2 terminals are supposed to contact the washer to close the circuit.
The washer is so black I thought it was plastic. It doesn't stick to a magnet so I'm guessing it might be copper. Currently soaking it in CLR to see if that helps.
The washer is so black I thought it was plastic. It doesn't stick to a magnet so I'm guessing it might be copper. Currently soaking it in CLR to see if that helps.
Tom
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Turns out the washer I mentioned earlier is the fibrous one. After soaking it became clear it was not metal.
I can only suppose that the brass washer popped out when I opened the switch up. I wasn't expecting the spring to pop out like it did. I'll start searching the garage floor for it.
Now that I see your pictures with the brass washer it makes total sense.
Thanks!
#6
Melting Slicks
Dude! That is perfect!
Turns out the washer I mentioned earlier is the fibrous one. After soaking it became clear it was not metal.
I can only suppose that the brass washer popped out when I opened the switch up. I wasn't expecting the spring to pop out like it did. I'll start searching the garage floor for it.
Now that I see your pictures with the brass washer it makes total sense.
Thanks!
Turns out the washer I mentioned earlier is the fibrous one. After soaking it became clear it was not metal.
I can only suppose that the brass washer popped out when I opened the switch up. I wasn't expecting the spring to pop out like it did. I'll start searching the garage floor for it.
Now that I see your pictures with the brass washer it makes total sense.
Thanks!
Dave Z