SDVette

I did a search and only found a little info, so I thought I'd write up how I did it.

One of my straps had broken (at the axle) - the other was intact. But they had sort-of 'fossilized' over the 54 years and 130K miles.

I used a cutting wheel on a dremel to cut the old straps off the chassis mounts.





I purchased new straps from ZIP. The straps are pre-drilled, and they include rivets. I decided NOT to use the rivets as you need a special tool to peen them. I used 1/4-20 x 1 inch bolts, washers, and nuts to attach the new straps.

I was able to do this (barely) with the car sitting on the ground. In retrospect, it would make the job much easier with the rear wheels removed. However, remember the weight must be on the suspension in order to install new straps - you can't let the axle hang.

Hopefully, these will last another 54 years!



Fred

Frankie the Fink

Looks good. A job I'll have to do sooner or later on the '61...thanks for the tip on the screws...

No offense my friend, but you really should think about some attention to the frame rust...even if you don't pull the body you can do a credible job...

A little time spent with a pump hand sprayer, some Ospho and chassis black paint can do wonders..

BOB WINSKI

Frankie .I have the tool for the straps for the rivets if you ever want to borrow it.Bob W

Frankie the Fink

Appreciate that Bob. I'm gonna have my '61 up on the lift today to do the Eastwood Internal Chassis Treatment so I'll examine the straps and see if they need replaced...

Thanks for the offer

DZAUTO

FOR A NON-NCRS TYPE CAR, bolts/nuts sure make the job much easier, PLUS, easier and quicker to replace them again in the future if needed.
Otherwise, as mentioned, there are tools available for squeezing original type rivets---------------but not worth it to me. Since my 56 cannot even come close to a Third Flight, I use stainless bolt/nuts for things like this. Never a rust or corrosion issue with stainless fasteners.

C-1 Generation 2

Once when I stopped to get gas about ten years ago and came back to the 62 I noticed something hanging down under the car. One of the straps gave it up. Mine didn't have rivets on them. A friend gave me some straps. I cut them to length, drilled to put two larger bolts in and dyed them maroon.


Picture from some years ago. Now it has new leaf springs, air shocks and stainless Magnaflows.

Frankie the Fink

I'd like some advice on how to determine if the straps need replaced (short of having one snap in two as above)...

Mine are dark and impregnated with a lot of road draft tube "preservative" fluid and appear to be fine.

So I have no clue if they are "on the edge"

mark6669

Frank
If they are not frayed at the mounting straps they are probably OK but they are 54 years old so they could snap at any time. I have the rivet tool if you need it, very easy to use.
Mark

jim lockwood

Frankie,

I'd suggest the imminently practical (and lazy) approach of just waiting until the straps break to even think about them. That's what I do.

Jim

SDVette

I'm generally a "don't change it until it breaks" guy, but in this case, I might disagree. The 54 year old straps crumble when you touch them. I suspect the one strap broke when the car was on a lift. So, they really can't do the job once they get to this point. I would give them a feel and if they seem flexible, they are probably OK.. But if the crumble when you touch them, and dust shoots out, they are not going to be able to do their job if needed.

None taken Frankie, and thanks for the input. Although it looks bad, remember where I started:









My plan has been: wire brushing, then spraying a rust encapsulator as I go.. with the eventual goal of doing POR or chassis paint.. but I need to find a 'friend' with a lift.. Fodder for another thread!

DZVette

SD and others,
I have attached Rich Mozzetta's document on installing the straps with rivets and a few pics of the straps on our '60 that I "refurbed" when doing the frame and under-body this past summer. The car was on my KwikLift so pretty much everything was at "arms length". Like your plan, I used wire brushes in a flexible shaft attached to an electric drill. I made the jig to hold the drill; worked very well. Some sanding, scrubby pads, citrus strip, Krud Kutter, paint thinner, laquer thinner, etc. and lots of elbow grease. Wear a mask, gloves and goggles.
Dave Z

Frankie the Fink

Thanks Mark (and everybody else)...while I was treating the frame today I checked out the rebound straps...they still seem supple and strong. Guess I'll be leaving them alone for now...

59BlueSilver

I would. It's not like if they break it's going to leave you stranded somewhere. I drive my car constantly and didn't realized I had been missing one for two years.

Frankie the Fink

On a street driven car its prob not a huge deal if one breaks. The C1 driveshaft angle is already severe though and if one should give under racing or other hard driving it could be an issue for sure if that axle dropped excessively. Mine appear to be fine so I'll let well enough alone for now - not really looking for more projects

BOB WINSKI

Neet set up with the drill.Corvette guys allways thinking

devildog

Dave, I am going to nominate you for the 2015 Burt Munro Award given for effective, simple and frugal design achievement.

Joe

DZVette

Wow! Thanks Bob and Joe. Necessity is the mother...
I like to combine woodworking with my hobbies wherever I can.

Dave Z

David Moroney

Hi Fred

Did you have to remove the axle parts as Rich Mozetta's notes recommended, or were you able to do the installation with the suspension in place?

David

SDVette

I did not remove anything. It may necessary to get the rivot tool in place.... but with bolts and nuts it's not required.

Fred

Steve59

I riveted mine in place. It can be done just got to finagle it a little.