Revfan

Hey guys
I am working on my Trailing Arms. I think I got the bushing out...

But then noticed this part. I tend to screw things up first, and ask question later. So I thought I'd do something new and ask first.

Here is the pic.



You can see my new bushings...

But the question is, Are A, B and C part of the old bushing that comes out? It kind of looks like B is attached to the A-arm. So maybe A and C are the same thing?

Obviously, the new bushing can't go in till something comes out, and I don't want to start banging until I know what is what.

And...

What is the accepted method for getting out what needs to come out?

66jack

"C" needs to come out....

Also, on your new parts, did you get the part that inserts into the new bushings that's supposed to flare on the ends to hold new bushings in place?...


EDIT:::

C is part of A...

Bill32

B is part of the trailing arm itself.

A and C are the bushing which comes out.

There are numerous ways to remove them, search Trailing Arm. There was a thread in the last couple weeks on removing them.

You do need a special tool to compress the new bushings to install them.

Revfan

Thanks guys!

I do have the tools... thanks to the Corvette Brotherhood Lending Library

And yes, I have the inside shaft that you flare to hold them together... its just not pictured.

Bill32

Yep, you can see the tube that Jack describes here and the rolled over edge on the arm (your "B").

Also the tool that you need.

Boyan

Rev, the easiest way I found to get those out is to tac weld a washer to the outside, then go in with a punch from the other side and smack them out. Just do one side at a time. If you weld the washers on both sides you have no room to work.
Boyan

DZVette

Great pics Bill!
Dave Z

rene-paul

Please note the counter-sunk washers in the back ground of Bill's picture. The tube is supposed to flare into these counter sunk washers and against the installed bushings.
Getting a good flare was a bit elusive for me. Keep us informed.
Brgds,
Rene

TCracingCA

Some of them sell the flaring tool. It is pretty simple with that!

Bill32

Not for me I made the one in my pic.

RestoMike

I get it you feel your tool does a better job. Can you say why you feel your tool works better?

Frankie the Fink

I'm a complete novice concerning C2 rear suspension. Somebody please explain to me what I'm missing. "A" in the first picture has the old, original bushing outer flange seated flush down to the trailing arm surface. The replacement bushings have some black material (rubber?) on the outboard end AND a SECOND flange. How does this work ?

Does that rubber ring and second flange stay exposed outside of the arm ? Is this some sort of upgrade ?

Revfan

I JUST took out the "A" in my original post.

The A and C are the same thing... which is the innermost metal part of the bushing. The bushing is Metal-Rubber-Metal. And through the hole in the center AND TWO WASHERS (which you can barely see in Bills first pic) goes the steel tube (bottom left of Bills first pic) and the ends are flared with the "tool". The tool presses the rubber together so you can get enough purchase to flare the end of the tube. If you don't have the tool to compress it, the tube doesn't stick out beyond the bushing/washer combo.

I think....

Frankie the Fink

Duh - I get it -- the "A" in your picture is the inboard metal flange on the bushing...right ?
You have the rubber ring and second (outboard) flange removed in the picture

I think.....

Bill32

Nah, just has the metal layin' around the shop, couple minutes on the lathe, couple minutes on the drill press, no waitin' on UPS.

Bill32

Right, the bushings MUST be compressed to work correctly.

Revfan

I know I probably made it harder than it is... but this should help to clear it up




A is the same piece that is pressed into the trailing arm. B is a flange built into the trailing arm.

When getting the old bushing out... I used a dremel to grind of the flare.. which got the outter metal and the rubber bushing out, but left the inner most piece. I whacked the A (on the inside of the TA) a few times to bend it in, then punched each side out from the top/bottom.

Took 5 minutes.

DZVette

Using the great info supplied here, some photos of my own and some info from vendor websites, I put together the attached PDF to try to illustrate the nature of the trailing arm bushings and their assembly into the trailing arm body. Thanks to Bill32 and Revfan for posting up the photos to help us out.

Dave Z

P.S. Bill and Greg, I hope the use of your photos is OK.
John and Dub, thanks for the added tips and the photo! DZ

Bill32

Sure

Revfan

Holy Cow!
Cool!

Its funny, that some things have been done thousands of times, and to the old salts here, they probably just chuckle at it, but to others who haven't done it before, its a new adventure.

In a lot of the videos and restoration walk-throughs I have seen, its sometimes the little things that aren't shown and they trip me up. They go from having a trailing arm with an old bushing, to a the final replacement shot and all that nitty gritty in between is left out.

Thanks DZ!