Utahcarguy

Seems dry now...I know, confusing.

Is it possible the petronix is giving a weak spark? I know I have spark at the plug (pulled two and saw spark arc to manifold).

MikeM

Ditch the pertronix. What do you have to lose at this point? Maybe the coil too. If that's not the problem, you haven't wasted but a few minutes.

This could be easier if the car was in front of me.

jim lockwood

Three things come to mind in addition to Mike's suggestion to junque the Pertronix and go back to points (with which I agree, BTW):

1. Verify that the anti-siphon solenoid valve you installed is getting power when you turn the ignition on. Listen carefully. At the moment you switch on the ignition you should hear a "click". If you don't, then solenoid valve is probably staying closed preventing fuel from reaching nozzles.

2. Assuming you have the pump cable installed in its casing, remove the casing and install just the cable in the distributor and in the pump. It's possible (unlikely but possible) that the cable is not presently engaging the pump. Running just the bare cable will ensure that it is.

3. Verify your starting technique is correct: For a cold start press and release the accelerator pedal once to set the fast idle cam. Turn the key. Do not press the accelerator pedal again until the engine fires, which, if there is fuel in the bowl, will be in about 10 revolutions.

Cold enrichment mechanism has nothing to do with engine starting. It has a crude and always inappropriate effect on air/fuel mixture after the engine fires until it turns off. Don't give this another thought.

Jim

Utahcarguy

Thanks Jim

1) I do hear the "click". No problems there. Verified getting 11ish volts from ballast resister.

2) I'm just running the bare wire to ensure I'm getting a good connections (John's suggestion as well)

3) I think this might be where I am having an issue. I am worried the cold enrichment is not working correctly. I don't think the boost is engaged when I set the throttle.

Before all my issues, when I set the throttle, the cam was set to the middle of the higher step. Now after replacing the top cap of the cold enrichment, the setting is all the way down almost off the lower cam step.

Is there anything I can do to take the cold enrichment out of the picture? Gas through the windshield wiper hole into the doghouse? That just ensures fuel, not air mixture. Right?

jim lockwood

I can't stress this enough: The cold enrichment mechanism, no matter how mal-adjusted or inoperative it may (or may not be) has nothing to do with engine starting. Nothing. Zip. Nada. The big goose egg. Zero.

To drive the point home a little harder, look at the mogrel FI unit I run on my '60:




What's missing? The cold enrichment mechanism! It's simply not there. And yet, the engine starts just fine. Every time.


I don't think you've got a fuel injection issue at all. The mere fact that you can induce nozzle flow by spinning the pump while applying vacuum to the main diaphragm convinces me of this.

I'd look at the ignition.

Still, if you spray some starter fluid into the vacuum port at the left rear of the FI unit and the engine runs for even a few seconds, I'll eat my words.

Jim

MikeM

I don't think he's listening.

Utahcarguy

???

Of course I'm listening.

I'm sourcing points right now...

Also trying to wrap my head around it being an electrical problem when I get spark at the plug!

I'm also going to check timing to make sure something isn't completely out of whack.

jim lockwood

Other than replacing the heating element for the cold enrichment mechanism, have you done anything else to the air meter? Anything at all?

Utahcarguy

I adjusted both idle screws. I set them 2 turns out. I also installed a new air filter, but I had the car running after it was installed.

Other than that, I don't even know what adjustments there are on the air meter.

ohiovet

When you tried to start the engine did you have power to the anti siphon solenoid?
No power- no fuel.
Bruce B

0Corvettes by George

Pull a spark plug, ground it, turn engine over with ignition system (key), and observe if plug is firing.

I suspect you have an electrical issue.

G.

jim lockwood

From which side of the ballast resistor are you taking solenoid power?

jim lockwood

In your very first posting, you wrote:

How about describing exactly how you tested the CSV? i.e To which port did you connect the Mitivac? How did you make the connection? What did you do to get the CSV to close and hold vacuum? And anything else you can think of.

rustylugnuts

......interesting!

rustylugnuts

Utahcarguy

So the problem is definitely electrical now. At one point I had spark at the plug, but not now.

Yesterday I tested with starting fluid in the "doghouse" and not even a chirp from the engine. Using a volt meter, I tested the ballast resister and the new coil I installed. BOTH ARE GETTING POWER. The ballast resister is at around 11.5V then drops to 9.5V while cranking. This is normal.

I tested the Petronix unit AND new points I purchased. I have never used points before, so I had an experienced C1 Corvette owner come over and check my work. He helped me adjust the points as best we could without a feeler gauge. Again, nothing form the engine.

If I'm getting voltage at the coil, but no spark coming out of the coil, what is the problem? If the Petronix unit went bad, then why didn't the points work either?

This is how I had them installed...

Condenser installed on rear of the distributor->jumper cable to points->jumper to other points->Power cable to right side of ballast resister.

left side of ballast resister->+coil

-coil->ground

I have the solenoid connected to the left side of ballast resister. I hear a distinctive click when I turn the ignition on.

Jim_C

Utahcarguy

left side of ballast resister->+coil

-coil->ground

Where do the points figure into this?

CUL Jim

Utahcarguy

right side of ballast-> points

MikeM

Humor me. Put a test light on the plus side of the coil and crank the engine. You should get a bright on/off/on/off flash if your points are making and breaking the coil circuit. If you get the bright flashing light, you should get a healthy spark from your coil. Don't confuse a bright light with dim.

Raise your hand when you've done this with the results.

I can't comment on the wiring of your points nor do I understand why the condenser is on the outside of the distributor. You must also have dual points?

Utahcarguy

I will try this.

The condenser is inside the distributor. Yes I have dual points.

jim lockwood

If by this you mean the black wire from the points, then, no. Connect this wire to coil (-).

This is a little ambiguous. Here is what you should have:

There should be a wire from the ignition harness which connects to one side of the ballast resistor. As I recall, this wire is green. The wiper motor also connects to this same ballast resistor terminal. You should have the electric solenoid valve wired to this terminal also.

The coil(+) connects to the OTHER side of the ballast resistor.

No, as described above, coil(-) connects to the black lead coming out of the distributor.